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Turbo Actuator???

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7.3K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  SeanB321  
#1 ·
Hi
I have a 2006 E61 520d which had been driving completely normally until it suddenly experienced a significant power loss whilst driving on the motorway. Seemed to drive perfectly fine although limited to approx. 50mph as I cruised to the next services. AA guy could not find any faults (with diagnostic kit) other than turbo hose not pressurising when engine revved. A ride home on the AA truck and a trip to a BMW main dealer for diagnostics identified no significant electrical faults. Code 4530 (low boost) was main culprit. Verdict of dealer was turbo replacement required (ÂŁ1900 fitted) as they diagnosed it down to a turbo mechanical failure.

Bearing in mind that car drives fine (albeit with permanently reduced power), makes no strange noises and does not produce any smoke, makes me think that the turbo unit is probably ok? Having looked through a few forums, it appears that the electronic actuators/variable guide vanes can be problematic, e.g actuator fail, arm sticking, soot in turbo guide vanes etc. I brought the car home last night and checked the actuator. It rotates during engine start and moves smaller increments when the engine is revved. I am not convinced that movement is completely smooth but it does look pretty good. Unfortunately I am trying to find someone at work with a 320/520d who will let me look at their actuator operation for a comparison…

I note that actuators are not available separately and various comments that they are paired to turbo’s by Garrett during manufacture? I also note at least one person claiming to have successfully swapped an actuator (with youtube footage) and have seen reconditioned actuators on ebay etc

Note – Dealer found no fault with any sensors and DPF seems to regen as it states 60k on idrive.

My questions, before I buy a reconditioned actuator (~ÂŁ150)
-Has anyone experienced this fault and what did you do?
-Can anyone who has had this problem advise whether they were successful in swapping the actuator, has it continued to work well for a considerable time subsequently, were there any side effects of an actuator not paired to the turbo?
-Did their old actuator move (perhaps insufficiently) before exchange?
-Are there any further tests I can do on my actuator/turbo? (I will check play of turbo when I start removing parts)

Thanks
Paul
 
#2 ·
My questions, before I buy a reconditioned actuator (~ÂŁ150)
-Has anyone experienced this fault and what did you do?
-Can anyone who has had this problem advise whether they were successful in swapping the actuator, has it continued to work well for a considerable time subsequently, were there any side effects of an actuator not paired to the turbo?
-Did their old actuator move (perhaps insufficiently) before exchange?
-Are there any further tests I can do on my actuator/turbo? (I will check play of turbo when I start removing parts)

Hi

Although my comments are not going to be 100% sure,(experience on an 530d) I hope they can guide you in the right direction...

About the actuator I am pretty sure you can just get another one and everything will be just fine... there is no coding required, and although it might be some sort of fine tuning with the turbo it should be easily done...

About the movement, although the actuator might be working is actually moving the vanes inside?
If easy, remove the turbo, clean it and inspect thoroughly... ensure the vanes move as the lever is moved...

You can also remove the turbo outlet pipe, inspect for play on the shaft, (normal to have play sideway, should be no play back and forward...)...
 
#3 ·
Hi Imsvvavr - Thanks for the response. I was talking with a colleague who also suggested taking the turbo apart (at least partially) to clean the vanes?

Has anyone done this? Is it difficult (considering oil system / turbo float) and does it need any special parts or can you "re-use" parts that seem in reasonable condition? Especially since I have heard that there are no refurb kits available...

Thanks
Paul
 
#4 ·
Agree, I am not aware of how easy is to remove it on a 2 litre, but by experience I know is a hell of a job on a 3.0...
Anyway, if you can remove it, definitely is the way to go, give it a good clean, and inspect the vanes and levers, ensure everything is working and moving freely...
If all good then it will be time to ensure the actuator is working, if you find it faulty search o eBay, you might find just the actuator...
Please report!
 
#5 · (Edited)
DPF seems to regen as it states 60k on idrive.
Just to comment- the DPF "miles left" on the iDrive is just a number that you can reset or alter yourself, in much the same way that you can reset the oil change mileage or inspection periods etc. It does not take into account any condition of the DPF so although it says 60k miles, that does not mean it is regen'ing properly. In your case it probably is, as it hasn't thrown any codes out. In my case recently the DPF had clogged through not regen'ing due to other issues (glow plugs, thermostats) but the iDrive still said 80k miles.
 
#6 ·
The glow plugs have nothing to do with the regens...
Unless that is dependent on the ecu software version or car year...
My one is running with 3 glow plugs not working and regens just fine...
Is that and the fuel tank level, I've noticed my one regenerating and asking me to visit the petrol station!
But you are correct about the idive info... is just a mile countdown. ..