BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner

DPF warning light 08 e60 530d

Tags
08 dpf warning
1 reading
19K views 54 replies 13 participants last post by  snowblind  
#1 ·
Hi,

DPF warning light came on today down the motorway, went away after about 5 mins of driving. Later when driving again, came on again and again went away after 5 mins, car drives fine, has 158k on clock.

My issue is, I have to drive to Wales tomorrow (220 mile trip) as working on a customer site there for the week, just worried car will go into limp mode or something? I've added some DPF cleaning stuff, not sure that
will do anything though.

Feeling it is going to be a DPF delete and re-map, don't want to replace the DPF with the price of them - failing this, not sure what to do.

Any advice?

Thanks,
Steve:frown
 
#2 ·
A good run on the motorway with some DPF additive is pretty much the best thing you can do by tomorrow.
The car clearly isn't conducting a regen so take a look at the hidden menu for the coolant temp. You should be seeing just over 90 once the car is up to temp.

Pound to a penny the main stat has failed so if you can get that changed during the week, the ride home should reap rewards.
 
#6 ·
What im thinking you saw was a yellow coil symbol which came on for a second which is normal during very cold weather.
But doesn't guarantee that the glow system is ok.
Get yourself the c110 or c310 scanner and you can monitor everything.
 
#8 ·
Best to change the glow controller too because if you do have glow errors,its hard to tell if its the controller or the plugs.
Even one bad plug will flag a fault and stop the regen process.
 
#9 ·
Let's try to clear this up. Glow plug errors have sweet F/A to do with regens. Glow plugs are a cold starting aid and apart from that they are a waste of space.

Certain DDE errors WILL block a regent but there are are only a couple of errors that are RELEVANT to this process. These are "DPF too heavily contaminated" or "back pressure too high". There are also I believe some cases where DDE software below certain revisions could get a bit flaky managing regen cycles. There are restrictions around coolant temperature (>75C) which can interrupt the automated regen cycle so definitely check temps via the on-board menu.

The regen process itself doesn't know or care about the existence of glow plugs and they play absolutely no part it. If anyone wants to test the theory they can disconnect the glowplugs, drive the car and see if it regens. Provided there are no relevant conditions prevailing the regen cycle will proceed in its own sweet time.
 
#12 ·
The conditions need to be met for DPF regen are,

Coolant temp 75c+
At least 10 litres of diesel in tank
No DPF clogged codes present in DDE.
Long stretch of road where you can continually do 40mph+

Have a passenger sit next to you with C110 scanner and have them read and clear the codes as you go. Many folk say Forte DPF cleaner works, so worth a try too.
 
#15 ·
Hi,

Done 200 mile trip on mway and still light comes on - temp was running around 62 degrees so guess it is the thermostat? Although did get to 84 degs when stuck in traffic?

Or should I go for DPF remove,delete, egr delete and remap for ÂŁ380? But, looks like there is a prob with thermostat?...
 
#17 ·
If the error code is 480A it will probably solve itself once the stat is changed (and a bit of an Italian tune up).

If the error code is 481A you will most likely need a little more help. This is normally achieved by continually clearing the code when it is up to temp and you are on a good drive. This obviously needs a passenger to keep clearing the codes whilst you drive.
Your aim to to fool the ECU into thinking there is no error (as you have just cleared it) so it initiates a Regen cycle before it realises.
The 481A error inhibits further Regen cycles.

If I had my time again, I would have deleted, along with EGR. They are nothing but hassle.
 
#23 ·
Don't get an Ebay one, or one from ECP/GSF etc. There are plenty of bad reports of these failing almost immediately. You don't want to be doing that job twice.

Main Dealer only. Mine was about ÂŁ45 for the main stat but that was some time ago.

75 degrees is the golden figure, but you need to be comfortably over that to be confident it is working correctly.
The stat doesn't open until 88 degrees so use that as a guide to where your coolant should be.
 
#24 ·
So, on a run, car should get to at least 75 degs? Like I said, mine gets too 60-64 on a run, stuck in traffic for a while it did hit 84 degs briefly.

Is it a diy job to fit it? Imagine empty coolant, replace thermostat and then replace coolant?

My eurocar parts is doing thermostat for ÂŁ45 (link below, don't know if this is a good one or not?)

| Car PartsRetailer
 
#32 ·
Just what I was about to say. ÂŁ30 sounds very cheap for a main thermostat. :confused If so that's a very good price.

Took me about 2 and half hours but that's on a drive.

Also DO NOT let the garage stick any old coolant in your system. It needs to be either genuine BMW coolant or Comma xstream G48 which is approved.