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Tyre Replacement at what tread depth?

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depth tread
5.6K views 10 replies 9 participants last post by  De Sisti  
#1 ·
I believe BMW recommends changing tyres once the tread depth is at, or just less than 3mm. I have read that Michelin themselves actually recommend tyres can be safely used down to the legal limit, i.e. 1.6mm. (Michelin's Research Director, Bernard Delmas quoted this at the Paris Motor Show). I cannot see if they have carried out any tests to determine if tyres at the legal limit stop a vehicle less quickly (and safely) than those at 3mm. I am not a tyre expert, but I tend to think that having less tread than 3mm on a tyre might result or poorer roadholding and stopping distances.

I'd be interested to hear the views of forum members, and at what tread depth you are changing your tyres.
 
#3 ·
I am not a tyre expert, but I tend to think that having less tread than 3mm on a tyre might result or poorer roadholding and stopping distances.
Thats a yes and no answer
a tyre with less than 3mm will perform very well in the dry as you loose the flex in the tread that a newer tyre has but in the wet its performance is woeful as it can not move water out of the way
 
#6 ·
Thanks for replies guys. No, I was definitely intending to change at around 3mm, but that pronouncement by Bernard Delmas made me think. It's my gut feeling that we get more wet days in the UK than totally dry ones, so I've really no intention of 'eeking them out' to 1.6mm !!

The official Michelin website talks about when to change tyres, e.g. on reaching close to 1.6mm, after being badly punctured, etc., but as far as I can see, no mention of aquaplaning or anything associated with it is listed or discussed.
 
#8 ·
I was looking into this recently, our fleet vehicles are Lex Autolease, and they won't change tyres until they reach 2mm.

From my own experiences, you can tell when a tyre gets below 3mm and I can only imagine how bad they are at 1.6mm (in the wet).

Image


^ From the ROSPA investigation for wet grip, which I'm entirely inclined to believe. Of course, in the dry a bald tyre would probably outperform anything else!
 
#9 ·
That's an interesting graph
I wouldn't mind seeing something similar comparing difference in wet grip between EU ratings

According to this on Blackcircles there's 18m difference between 'A' and 'G' 3m per rating

https://www.blackcircles.com/general/tyre-labelling/tyre-label

it would be interesting to compare the stopping distance for an 'E' rated with 7mm with a 'C' rated tyre with 3mm and an 'A' rated with 1.6mm for example

:)

Typical E90 front tyre 225/40 x 18...

'E' rated ÂŁ41
https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s13...S_400_-_225_40_R18_92W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_:_E_Wet_Grip:_E_NoiseClass:_2_Noise:_69dB

'C' rated ÂŁ34
https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s13...A_301_-_225_40_R18_92W_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_:_C_Wet_Grip:_C_NoiseClass:_2_Noise:_71dB

'A' rated ÂŁ62
https://www.camskill.co.uk/m61b0s13..._3_-_225_40_R18_92Y_XL_FR_TL_Fuel_Eff_:_C_Wet_Grip:_A_NoiseClass:_2_Noise:_72dB

:)
 
#10 ·
The graph above is a great summary of the tread depth vs adhesion issue. One of the hidden reasons why quality tyres are more expensive is that compared to cheap tyres, they have more layers of tread, each with a different compound mix. So that as the tread wears, the handling stays the same insofar as that is possible. One effect is that the inner layers can wear quicker than the outer (giving you better adhesion to compensate for shallower tread in the wet, at the cost of greater wear). So this is one reason why it's worth checking your tread at least monthly, as you may have just entered a new band of rubber that wears faster.

Deciding on this curve for a particular tyre model is a sort of zero-sum-game. And of course, as the sipes and grooves get shallower, there's no way 'round the problem that the tyre just can't shift as much water in the wet. A tyre chemist/designer will have to make a decision about how steep to make the curve, and where to flex it. So when a manufacturer says 'replace at 3mm' what they've probably done is to make the adhesion really good down to the 3mm point, but at the cost of very rapid wear and reduction in adhesion below. So this is why you get different recommendations from different manufacturers. Also, given how much poorer 3mm deep grooves are than 8mm ones in shifting water, then you might as well make that the 'flex' point where the tyre is degrading all 'round.

So this is also why claims about long-life can be disingenuous. Because you can easily make a tyre last longer by 'trading-in' some other characteristics (such as resistance to aquaplaning, tread squirm, cold temperature flex etc. etc.). The design and manufacturing skill is in getting all these things at just the right balance without the tyre costing ÂŁ300 a time.

Personally, for our runabout, I take the tyres down to about 3mm and then consider replacements. If it's warm, I'll take my time looking-'round and may wait until the winters go on and then throw them away if they're below the 3mm point. For the M235i I will start looking-around to replace by the time they get to 3mm.

With winter tyres, if you're putting them on for snow, especially as part of driving in the Alps, then the change point is usually recommended to be around 4mm. Below that their snow adhesion degrades fast. If you come out of the winter at 4mm then people sometimes opt to defer the switch to summers, so as to wear the summers a bit less.