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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I went to 117speed in Trafford Park. Turns out the rolling road/map is nothing to do with the boost issue I'm having pre 3000rpm. I need to have the issue sorted before having the car remapped and as was previously said the tuner won't touch it until the issue is sorted. They mapped out the egr and swirl flaps and the issue was still there. I then went looking for a leak in the system somewhere and had a smoke test done but this didn't find any leak. I've changed the map sensor which was filthy but the issue is still there. Next thing is the boost pressure valve in the morning to see if that helps. It's an electronic actuator on them so I'm stuck for getting that tested. Seems I will have to get a new turbo
 
The fault code you have relates to the swirl flap actuator motor going beyond its set parameters. When you turn the ignition on it does a sweep from open to closed as a swirl flap check. If it goes further than it should as a result of wear in the linkages it thinks the swirl flaps are broken and places the car in limp mode. It does not through a engine management light when it does this. Even though your swirl flaps have been removed the actuator will still does the sweep and in your case it is still going past it’s set parameters. You need to remove the actuator and fabricate a new stop so when t does the test sweep it stays within its settings.
the alternative is to replace e the inlet manifold with a new one which will also resolve the issue.
cheers
Jim
 
Amazing news @335Daz . I've been following your thread closely as I've recently purchased one of these on an impulse buy, and while my car seems 100% it's good to get an understanding of issues others run in to, especially when you see a good result like this in discovering the issue and getting your car back to normal.
 
The problem with mine was the magnetic sensor board inside the swirl flap motor unit. As per typical BMW manufacturing process, small printed circuit boards are connected by being pushed on oblong pins. Over time this method is susceptible to bad connections. A simple and good repair is to solder the pins where the pass through the holes on the pcb. You'll never get a bad connection on it.....ever again.
The small pcb inside the motor/gearbox has only 3 connections on it ... Ground, 5v, and Signal.
All I did was solder the pins to the pcb. Fault code was cleared, and Bingo Bango, as good as new again.
 
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