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I almost die- "2DEC" Fault Code -Voltage Issue - Loose Wire/Connection on Junction Box

21K views 16 replies 5 participants last post by  Alan G  
#1 · (Edited)
Thank you in advance to all, and would really appreciate any advise on what I experienced. The car has "02DEC" fault code, which is about car voltage issue.

I have a 2010 BMW E90 with N43 engine, automatic transmission. Today I could have had a very serious accident, but luckily nothing happened. For some reason, the electricity of the car shut down for 4-5 seconds while driving around 50mph, and I even could not turn the hazard lights on. Below I tried to explain the problems I am recently having with my car. I first noticed something was wrong with the car on 17th of July when I did a long journey for a day trip to the Norfolk area from Leicester (120 miles). Because I started to journey in the evening and drove the car in dark for a long time for the first time, I was able to notice the front headlines were flickering, but I did not feel that this could be something that would cause other problems, which I now think is what is happening actually …

The problem does not happen when I first start the car, or if I use it for a short distance. However, after driving the car for a relatively long period (between 30 min-1 hour), after the engine reaches operating temperature, if I slow down or stop in traffic lights, etc., flickering on headlights and interior light starts to happen. When this starts to happen (I believe it’s about car voltage or electricity in the car), if I try to park the car, the steering wheel starts to feel strange (kind of heavy). I believe this is because something in the car uses more energy than it needs, or the alternator fails to regulate voltage level, or there is a wiring/grounding issue, IBS sensor, fuse, relays, etc.

Besides these, once the car starts to show these symptoms if I stop the engine by pressing the engine switch button, the whole electricity cuts off and the key remains locked in the fob. (please see attached link showing this issue). Nothing in the car functions (i.e. radio, headlight, cabin light), and no light on the dashboard. This has happened at least 12-15 times since the 17th of July. Sometimes the electricity comes back if I keep opening and closing the car doors, and sometimes it comes back while doing nothing. However, it takes for the car at least 35second or 5minutes for electricity to come back. Once this happened on the last week of July, I was on holiday in the Cornwall area. The next day, I drive the car to the closest Kwik Fit centre, and had its battery and alternator checked, and the mechanic told me my battery seems to work fine It's really strange because I also know my Vatra battery is only 8 months old and specifications of the battery match my car model.

Before I experienced all these, my High-Pressure Fuel Pump failed (around the 9th of July), and I had to park the car somewhere as I was struggling to accelerate, and the car behaved strangely. After this, my local mechanic suggested purchasing a second-hand HPFP and replaced it as well as spark plugs on the 13th of July. Although I am not sure, I now feel that this failure of my fuel pump may somehow be related to the pre-existing voltage issue on my car, which I did not know at that time.

Finally, today I was driving to a fruit farm with my cousin and her 3-year-old daughter, and I was not very fast. After a cold start, and 3 miles of driving, all of sudden the car lost whole electricity for a moment and I could not even turn on hazard lights. I was so lucky that there was no car behind me, and the electricity came back 3-4 seconds later while I did touch nothing and the car had no engine power I believe. After electricity started to work, I received an error showing that my right beam light was not working anymore, which I think is due to high voltage.

This makes me feel it could cause a serious accident, and we were really lucky today. I started to lose my confidence in my car, and I do not even consider selling the car to someone else in this condition as it could cause fatality.


 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Hi again,

Thank you for your advise. Yesterday I get t in touch via email with my local garage, and he told me that these issues may be related to bad connection on b+ cable from battery and junction box. They shared with me the below post on their facebook page. After understanding the issue, I watched few youtube videos. This one really shows what might be actually wrong with my car. I called the BMW hotline to confirm whether this repair was done or not. I was told that my recall repair was already done. As I am not the first owner of the car, I do not know where this recall repair was done.

I have a feeling that the recall repair on my car was not really done properly... I will bring the car to have its MOT done tomorrow, and will decide what to do after that. I really do not want to pay to main dealership for the repair if this was caused by faulty recall repair. Do you think I should directly contact with the main dealership as they are the car manufacturer, or should I contact with them after getting proof of the cause of the issue from my local mechanic. And also, how can I learn where was this recall repair was done.

Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Today I called BMW to ask about recall repair. They told me that they only changed the cable as part of this recall, but not the fuse box or junction box. My local mechanic told me according to him, the most likely reason why the car had this problem is this recall issue. Tomorrow I will bring the car to BMW to get inspected. I believe if they found that the issue is because of the loose cable on junction box connection, they won`t charge me.

I will update you tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Today I had appointment at BMW Sytner Leicester. I specifically requested them to have a look into Junction Box and B+ cable connection. They started to work on the car more or less around 10am, and around am they finished the work and inspected the fuse box arond 11am. They said that they removed the junction box and inspected it. No sign of recall related issue... Luckily they did not charge me, but also did not solve the issue. They informed me if I want to further inspection, I need to leave the car and pay for inspection. Because I had in the past bad experience in this garage, I did not leave the car there of course.

My question is now, is it really possible that they open and inspect fuse-box connection in an hour? My local mechanic said they might just did not want to bother and inspect it really in depth.

So, my local mechanic told me he can have a look towards the end of September. I will try not to drive the car until then.

Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Hi Everyone,

Just to update you on this. I reported the issue to DVSA and was contacted by BMW. They will do an inspection free of charge at an authorized BMW service. I will update you on results.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hi again,

I managed to record the footage of the electrical problem on the dashboard (it's available via BMW hidden menu). It shows how the Voltage of the batter changes while waiting on traffic lights. Usually, it becomes more stable at around 12.5 and 12.8 while driving... I believe this needs to be stabilised around above 13... So I do not really know what is causing it. Tomorrow, I will have the car inspected once more. I will keep you updated.

The first part of the video shows the voltage value, the second part is when it cuts off all the power after parking. The electrical system comes back normal after my cousin shuts the door using a bit of extra force.

Here is the video;

 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Hi, all! Finally, the issue is resolved! Despite all the bolts were in the battery were fine, the connection (+cable) was somehow not secure and vibrating. I was informed by the mechanic that he only fixed the connection and fitted it properly, and now there is non of the symptoms! Such a relief.