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Help......car runs but no turbo. MAP sensor??

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8.3K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  MrSweet1991  
#1 ·
Hi, So after lots of trouble free motoring I have a fault with my 320d. Fault is as follows, car starts but very lumpy, have no turbo whatsoever, the actuator moves freely when battery not connected but becomes rigid when battery attached to the car otherwise no hint of it moving. Car drives but no power as no turbo. When it does drive it can just stall, when it does it won't restart unless it feels like it and will just crank over or when it does want to restart it can just stall again randomly even when accelerating.
I've plugged it in, only engine code I've got is 3f00. Relating to Boost pressure sensor.
Am I right is saying this is the MAP sensor? If so is this likely to cause the faults above? With it disconnected car won't run at all.
Additionally looking at live data the actual pressure reading sits at 900 and never changes. The requested pressure always fluctuate depending on rpm. I'm guessing the car is asking for that amount of pressure boost but clearly isn't getting it. Whilst mechanically I'm great with tools.....the electronics side of things im getting to grips with still.
Any help or advice gratefully recieved as I'm 2 weeks into this issue and no progress!!!!
As a footnote, all started with an engine that cranked and lots of warnings such as abs, dtc, tyre pressure but I'm attributing that to low battery voltage at the moment unless anyone suggests otherwise.
Thanks in advance. JP
 
#2 ·
I can't really help much but can chime in on a thing or two, if there was a fault with the MAP sensor it can contribute to less power and worse fuel economy. The Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor is located in the intake manifold and can get clogged up, you should be able to pull the sensor and use electrical cleaner to clear the hole out. The hole can get a build up inside and reduce the diameter of the hole itself.

I'm not sure of the fault code but I will check on ISTA D later as I'm curious if maybe it was a MAF sensor error instead as that's located just after the air filter and before the cold side of the turbo so it's more on the side of the turbo as opposed to the MAP sensor which is on the other side of the engine. Have you managed to pull the pipe off the cold side of the turbo? If your engine isn't to much different there's only 2 Allen key bolts holding it on and it slides off revealing the cold side of the turbo. You could also check for turbo play and excess oil. And when the battery is severely low you do get a host of faults just like you've listed, it's a shame you don't have ISTA D to hand, it would have been interesting to see if all of the ECU responds as ISTA D shows a graphical representation of all of the ECU like DDE, FRM etc etc I was curious whether the electric fault may have made one of those dodgy.
 
#6 ·
Sorry for the late reply, when ISTA D analyses the ECU it talks to each and every module (not sure if module is the correct word) but once it has finished you'll see a graphical illustration of all of the modules (DDE, FRM etc) and if any of those don't respond they'll show as red on the diagram, if any faults are present they'll show as yellow and then a test plan will list all of the faults in a list. The red areas in the ECU means it is not responding, I'm aware of this because on the e90 there's a bug which can cause the FRM module to brick if it drops below a certain voltage and bricks from the bootloader stage I believe and the FRM has to be removed and reflashed off the car.

When does the MAP sensor come mate? and might be worth investing in a Carly OBD adapter or ISTA D as I know with ISTA D you can view live data to see how things like the MAP is actually functioning.
 
#7 ·
So, new MAP sensor installed and car runs perfectly, well it does now. Had a few other strange errors, steering angle sensor and then wheel pressure sensors but after clearing them and recalibrating the wheel angle it's run perfectly since.
Thanks for the info about SOFTWARE, I'm going to invest, any ideas for a good cheap 'safe' supplier??
 
#8 ·
Glad to hear the car is sorted! And there's a good chance your fuel economy will improve. For the diagnostic investment it depends which one you decide to go with. For the Carly OBD dongle and software you could search for a used adapter online, you may even find people on this forum in the classifieds may be selling one with the Carly adapter youd purchase either the app from the Play Store (Android) or App Store (IOS device) which of course is the safest as you're buying from the original developer.

The windows route (ISTA D, INPA, DIS v57 etc) is a little more complicated. me for example I purchased the OBD cable which also come bundled with ISTA D and INPA for ÂŁ20 and works an absolute treat! But you have to be careful as some cables are cheap and can cause random errors which could lead you to research for hours not knowing it's actually just the cable rather than a car or software fault. I'll see if I can dig out the reviews people did about each company who sold the cables with the software as there's some main ones like cable-shack, bcables and more but some had bad reviews. Also, if you would like ISTA D it can take hours to download and setup, Carly route is pretty much plug and play but obviously if you really got into ISTA D it's dealership software so it's about as comprehensive as you can get. To be honest though I probably would have just invested in the Carly adapter and app as it can be a pain to get your laptop out all the time lol.