Found this...

If this correct here is my first problem... know I need remove my wheel to see if can fit the new one (well, the future new one, lol), as is aluminum can be easily milled... in the mean time if anyone has something to share....

 

Well, today I toke the change to carrie out some tests prior to start spending money, basically just to make sure was duable, as I have read that on the E60 was not as simple as is on some other models, like on the E39...
It might can cause issues in a long run/usage, but correct me if I am wrong, if the tests I have just carried out shows no problems, why would cause them on the future??
I explain:

I have removed the surroundings of the level selector to find where the tiptronic signal is generated, and obviously to see is was a positive + signal, a negative - signal, or last if was some specific signal that was coming from the ecu for example, in the last case I would have to take that signal till the paddles, so the paddles then would send it back to the ecu... don't know if I have been understandable....:sarcastic

The plug in question is the purple one, I was almost sure it shouldn't be that different from the E39, and so far I believe I am right.
After a lot, (and when I say a lot, is really a lot!), of measurements, this is the conclusion:

The signal is negative/ground (-).
The wires that transport the signal to the ecu, is the two middle ones, being the blue to up shift, and the purple to down shift.
The geen wire is gounded al the time, doesn't matter where the selector is positioned.
When the selector is not in the DS position, the middle wires are loaded with 12V, (However this is induction current, if you can call it like that), and the grey wire is loaded with 6V.
When the selector is moved to DS the two middle wires are O.L. (Open Line), and the grey wire gets grounded.
When you move the selector to down shift, the circuit is closed between grey and purple wires, note this is ground, (Negative -) as if I measure, I also get closed circuit to ground.
When you move the selector to up shift, the circuit is closed to the blue wire, all the rest as above...

Next and with my heart beat over the roof, I have jumped the gorund (from the car chassis), this is the results:

With the selector in any position except DS, jump it to blue wire (Up shift), and then to purple wire (Down shift), and I got no reaction from the gearbox, no warnings, no nothing!
Which means, when the paddles fitted, if I press them accidentally, the gearbox will not react. NICE!:thumbsup

The I have moved the selector to DS, and carried out the same, but now, and as expected, I got the following:

Jump the grond to the purple wire and the gearbox down shift, to the blue wire up shift.

So my conclusion is, the retrofit is possible and hopefully not that complicated.

Hope I have been understandable... :wide-eyed

Opinions comments and thoughts are more than welcome!

 

Ok, I am now in conditions to get the steering wheel, but before I proceed with the purchase I would like to get some opinions about which one is better.
What I mean is; I do fancy the smg style, with the illuminated "-" and "+", however I can get much cheaper the ssg, or push and pull style.
Would be nice to get the opinion of someone who actually have one of the systems.
The things I would like to know is for example, which system is more practical, or if in one system the paddles are too big...
I don't know, as I have never used them or seen one.
As I have the choice between both, I want to make sure I get the right stuff.
Anything will be helpful guys...

 

i have read about this on the 5 series forum - i thought it was only possible on the LCI box's, different ECU and different gearbox entirely? I know the principle of what your talking about and genuinely hope you manage it - good luck matey

 

the electronic selector works like switches in DS. connect any switch and it would work thats the least and to be honest cant see why that should cause any issues in long term. i was once toying with the idea too but left it alone. electronically it should be easy job. good luck

 

Thank guys, for some feedback...
Obviously pictures and details will be posted as I go along...
My only doubt now is which wheel should I get...

 

Quick update:
Wheel is on the way and should arrive somewhere next week.
I also bough 3 feet of ribbon cable, with copper lanes, to modify the slip ring.
Soon more details...

 

BMW E60/E61 PADDLE SHIFT STEERING WHEEL with column,lane departure warning (LDW) | eBay

 

I am back with updates...
The wheell with the paddles is now fitted, only the connection to the gear box is left and will be done tomorrow...
But first things first...

This is the wheel I got:

The wheel was advertised as removed from a 2007 model, which left me puzzled, cause when I got it the fitment to the slip ring is the same as my one, I thought they have changed the wheel after 2005.. or the wheel was misadvertised, which worked even better for me... looooooooool

The wheel I have a the moment:

The following photos is showing the removal and strip of the steering column, in order to run the wires later on...

I have removed the steering angle sensor, where all the connections are, because I was to use the unused connections for the heated steering on the PCB.
However and after open it I found this far too time consuming, and I decide to do it diferently.

I got from the scrap yard a slip ring from an old 7 series, so I could use the ribbon cable from inside, which I did.
The following photos shows the modification of the slip ring, where I added the ribbon cable and get that two extra lanes needed for the paddles.

This last photo shows the slip ring back together and with the two pins for the paddles plug.

This is the wheel ready to go back into the car.
You might notice that I left the crome trim, I do prefer it over the black.
Only had to change the M logo plate from the other wheel.
All the electronic including the module has been changed over, so no coding is needed.

The wheel is fitted already, tested and all working.
Tomorow I will post the rest of the retrofit, when I get it done.

 

Right, due to unforseen circumstances I do not have photos of the last bit of the retrofit.
However I do say its a straight forward task, just solder the "minus" and "plus" wires from the paddles to the plug mentioned above.
I have soldered a 2 pin plug to the car wires, so it gives a more professional look.

However, I do have photos and a video of the final result, and let me tell you something, I love it!
Gives you another look and driving feel, it realy looks nice!

 

wow, well done mate!

 

VERY cool mod! :thumbsup

 

Ok silly question but do they light up??? i never thought the paddles lit up but in your video they look like the + and - are lit up in white

 

Hi
Yes m8, they do light up in an sort of light blue...

 

Nice thanks

 

i want you to do this on my 645 lol im dying for paddle shift but sadly i dont trust myself to try this out lol

 

Hi there...
It is easier than you think, read as much as you can, and if you are ok with this kind of things do not be afraid...
It is a nice a mod, I am know looking to code the box to not down gear when in manual, that will make it 100% manual!

 

Hi mate, have you managed to code out down-shift yet?

 

Hi
Not yet... stealer refused to provide me with ibac code, or to program it them selves...
So I kinda of stuck at the moment.
My plan is to get icom and try then to get the ibac needed to code it.
I need icom anyway, after the latest update carried out at the dealer, my progman does not connect anymore...
Will keep the thread updated, but obviously just share if you find anything...

 

Ok i understand where should i connect the paddle but now just one question where should i connect the positive wire that takes the power to light up the paddles ????
Where should i connect it ???
Any help

 

Each paddle have a plug, that plug is connected onto the steering wheel ecu which is placed inside the steering wheel. .. the ecu lights up the paddles and feed the ground signal for the gear box...

 

That's what I'm saying witch pins ???
Witch plug from the steering wheel ???

 

Right, first thing:

Have you carefully read this thread?
Don't jump to the last page without read all the previous ones... all info you need is here...
But, if you bought a M5 wheel it should come all connected any way, although I advise you to change the ecu with the one from the original car ecu...
From that ecu to the slip ring you have:
Original wheel 1 plug (if you don't have heated steering wheel or lane departure warning...)
M5 wheel you have two plugs... one for the steering buttons and the other one for the paddles.

The signal for the gearbox is ground, please, read all my posts carefully and I am sure you will understand how its done...

 

Ok the steering that I bought it's from M5 and it has 4 plugs with 3pin each and all are connected to a big plug that it's going to the steering !!!

 

Post some pictures...

 

Here it's a photo with the steering wheel that I bought

 

Sorry, just saw your photo after posted... does that wheel have the ecu?
I can't see it on the photo...
The steering wheel ecu has been removed from it around 2005... so if there is no ecu on the one you bought is that is a different story...
surely it will be possible to get it working... but you will have to post more details, unless someone here has done it and can answer you quicker...

 

That's what it has 2 plugs of 3pin for paddle and 2 plugs of 3pin for steering buttons all of them connected together to a big plug that it's connected in the slip ring

 

ok, so no ecu in the steering wheel...
you got the "wrong" steering wheel then...
Have you removed yours already?

 

And by the way today improvised and connected the paddle straight to the lever on the gearbox blue and pink and then ground to paddle and all work downshift and up shift
The only problem it's from where should I get power for paddle to light up the third cable from the paddle where should I connect it

 

No I haven't removed mine yes I'm waiting for the slip ring for the extra 2 pins

 

You will need to have yours removed to compare how both are connected...
In my case connect the paddles to the existing ecu have illuminated the paddles straight away...
So if you have no ecu in the steering wheel the power for the lightning come from the body control unit ( if I am not wrong...).
It will be the same that illuminates your existing controls on the steering wheel...
Remove and open your actual steering wheel and go from there!...