BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner

Drivetrain malfunction P13C0

24K views 46 replies 4 participants last post by  marcelofrfilho581  
#1 ·
Hi, i have a bmw 2012 116i f21 with a drivetrain fault.

Whenever i start the car on cold start, nothing appears as an error. As soon as I put it into gear and begin to accelerate i get an engine warning light and drivetrain malfunction with a lot of shaking in the engine and the gear stick vibrating

As this occured i ran the obd and P13C0 error appeared.

I turned the car off(but kept ignition on) and the drive train malfunction error disappeared and no code was on the obd scanner. i turn the engine back on but now the drive train malfunction comes on after 10 seconds without having acceleration. i turn it off and again check obd but no code appears.

I had recently changed the vanos solenoid with a brand new one. Maybe the plug that goes into the vanos solenoid is bad but im sure i would get a circuit error if that was the case.

I have no idea what to do... maybe realign the camshaft? and if so is there a manual for.this proceedure?
 
#5 ·
Not too sure on that engine, could be front of head or in rocker cover.
But before replacing anything scan with proper diagnostics as you could be chasing a fault based on that code but it’s actually something different as generic scanner has interpreted the bmw hex codes incorrectly
 
#7 ·
Hi, thanks both for the reply.

i cleaned those sensors and still have the drivetrain issue.

Its so weird because if i let the car sit there for 5 - 8 minutes its fine.. then the drive train issue comes and an engine warning light comes... then 2 minutes late engine warning light is gone but drivetrain malfunction is showing and the car still sounds rough and is in limp mode?

As soon as i turn the car off and on the engine light is gone and so is the drive train malfunction.

i can only run the obd scanner when the engines on as thats when the warning light comes with the code..

Im completely stuck now. Ive ordered a more expensive obd scanner in hopes it reads / displays a more indepth error..
 
#8 ·
Scanner came and this is all it says... @Atyn or @Johnnyroper

So I presume this obd scanners as useless as the other but with a higher price tag.

One thing did notice was the Catyalyst temperature bank 1, sensor 1 was returning 315.32 degree F

Fuel rail pressure at 1001.95 psi with a fue lelvel input of 34.118%

and engine coolant temperature at 145.4 degree F.

The water pump rubber does look quite worn so could it be that? Although not sure how it would effect the camshaft..

Image
 
#10 · (Edited)

Look them up. But 1339 relates to exhaust camshaft so looks like your issues are all related to the vanos.
Could be a faulty sensor.

Cam sensors are about ÂŁ14ea from Autodoc so not too costly if they didn't cure the problem.

Enter your reg no. to find the correct part.

P13C0 is intake vanos and the above site suggests intake solenoid but click on 'view' for more into. Note the comment about oil pressure - when was the oil and filter changed?
Might be worth using some engine flush if they need doing.

The intake solenoid is on the drivers side at the front under the ecu but fortunately more accessible than the exhaust one on the opposite side.

The solenoids are ÂŁ36.

 
#12 ·
Thanks for the links @Atyn I'll order the cam sensors as the 'fault info' suggests doing so. Regarding the solenoid, the car came with it damaged. (literally looked like they tried hammering it out. I ending up getting it out and putting a new one in and it slid in perfectly fine, so that's already new.. however the harness has seen better days and I may need a new plug. But again not sure how much of an impact that could be especially if it still plugs in.

The oil and filter were changed a few days ago. From what I read the oil amount was from 4.2l to 4.7l

wait wait.. theres TWO intake solenoids?! do you possibly have a diagram of where the exhaust one could be found?

Now noting that the intake solenoid (under the ecu) had been replaced with a new one, could it merely be the exhaust solenoid causing the issue or would it not work like that?
 
#11 ·
thanks for the link :) @Atyn I checked my ecu for the ecu variant, but no clue on which one it could be... The label on the ecu says DME but not sure if that related to any of the ecu variants that website shows..

I'm assuming it's got something to do with the alignment of the timing chain after reading the fault info on that website.
 
#13 ·
I found an image on a pdf of it. I think this is the one the previous owner had problems with but had no idea where it was. It was difficult finding the the image for it's location and after seeing what job they did on the previous, i'm sure they had no idea where this one was.

So i'll order another solenoid, the two sensors and I'll see how it goes. I've also ordered a new obd scanner, one which can work with bimmerlink in order for me to find the specific code. I'm just hoping its got nothing to do with the camshaft timing as i have no clue on how I would even begin a job like that.

Image
 
#26 ·
ive bought that, i have it now but and sorry if this may be a silly question, i understand it locks the camshaft in place, but the camshaft can be mis aligned right? so how does it align both the intake and camshaft to be in the right position if its out of time / alignment?

from what i understand 'Angular offset to crankshaft outside tolerance' means its out of alignment right? dont i need to align it when replacing the chain and camshaft/intake? @Johnnyroper


thanks :)
 
#27 ·
You need to lock crank shaft at TDC with the locking pin, make sure cams are in a position where number 1 valves are fully closed the cam lobes should be facing upwards but not completely vertical.
As it’s a 4 stroke you can have camshafts 180 degrees out so you need to confirm lobes pointing up.
If the locking tool won’t go on as cams slightly out of time then you will need to slacken cam bolts and move camshafts with a spanner until tool will slide over and lock them up.