I had a e46 320cd and thats was the same...gutless pulling away up untill 2000rmp then the turbo would kick in, i had it remaped deleted the egr and removed the 1st cat, was better but still slugish before the turbo come in.

 

Wondering if this is the norm then, seems a little high to set before it kicks in


Iv asked a work collegue to take me for a spin in his 320D, although his is 170bhp where as mine is 163 but shouldnt be too far off, just want to compare it to something, will see what happens.

 

I thought mine was dangerous pulling away sometimes, i hadto build up the revs and go.

 

Hearing a lot about actuators sticking and is one of the common problems, could this be the case?

Is this likely something that would show on diagnosics? im borrowing a cable from a friend tomorrow for the weekend.

 

A Sticking actuator should show up on diagnostics if you use something like INPA.

 

My old 163 bhp 320d boosted quite well from 1800 rpm as standard and this dropped to about 1600 once remapped and certainly pulled up virtually any hill in any gear as long as the engine was on boost. That car was on 130k. It would seem as if you do have a bit of an issue with yours. Not many things seem to put the engine light on on these BMW's although a code will be stored from disconnecting the MAF and possibly others so get them checked if you cant yourself. Jim

 

I concur, my 2006 320d pulls like a train from 1800rpm, ok mines remapped but it still pulled well from 1800rpm before the remap just not as much of a kick. My previous E90 320d was a 2005 car exactly the same and that also pulled very well from around 1800rpm.

It sounds like you definitely have a boost issue somewhere, could be a problem with the turbo actuator or if your lucky it could be a boost leak on one of the hoses. Its common for these to split or perish at around 8 or 9 years old on these cars.

 

Here are the readouts from today, bearing in mind iv not read codes from here before so dont know what was on it previously


And also keep in mind I disconnected my MAF sensor yesterday and gave it a drive, so possibly some of these might be because of that (which ones would be useful to know, aside from the obvious) - My friend brought in his reader, would it be worth me now clearing these, and see if they come back - Before my trip back up north


But yeh, actuator faults are showing


Codes showing presently:

AC01 Output - Terminal 50

44CC - Charge Air Pressure Actuator

4530 - Charge air pressure control deviation

4243 - Glow Plug Cylinder 3

4BC2 - Mass air flow sensor

4BC7 - Intake air temp sensor (Reference signal for mass air flow sensor)

4BA1 - Intake air temp sensor signal flow sensor




Iv contacted the trade dealer I bought it from, there based in Manchester, im in South Wales Cardiff so a bit of a trek back up! I explained the situation and he said no worries bring back up and they will take a look under their workshop, they mentioned it could be one thing causing most of these, or it could be individual, but all should probably explain the reason why im getting such issue - Do you think if I take it up there they should be able to sort in a day? if worst comes to worst I can reluctantly book a travel lodge room or something which will then give them two days.

In the mean time, im pretty given that the air filter wasnt changed on this car when I had it, the fuel filter is going to need replacing also, but not sure weather to just forget that for the time being and just drive it up there and let them look at this boosting problem.

 

44CC - Charge pressure actuator - that's the electronic actuator on the turbo, and that's possibly the cause.

If the actuators don't work, the cars feel pretty dead at low RPMs.

 

yeah thought as much, whats the score can the actuators be repaired or replaced? or is it a new turbo? where do I stand with the warrenty ? I dont want to drive all the way up there and have stuff brushed under the carpet


Iv spoke to them and arranaged to go there beginning of January but will have to be a day down there with the intention of sorting, if another day is needed well I will have to book a room

 

Both the mass air flow and intake air temp codes will have been caused by disconnecting the maf so you have the 2 charge air pressure ones that are of most concern. The others want sorting really but dont think they are relevent to your issue! Jim

 

Cool I will get them all looked at whilst there anyway

Thanks

 

The usual fix would be to replace the actuator.

 

So you can replace the actuator without having a new turbo fitted on this?

OK, is there anything I should look out for or watch when I go back and get it sorted under warrenty, they insist I take a day shopping in manchester but to be honest I would rather be close and oversee whats going on, as its a long trip, and I dont want any issues

 

I would speak the the garagebefore travelling and find out their intentions. They might just be thinking that they will clear the codes & send you on your way. Its not impossible but im my view unlikely that they will diagnose and replace actuator or turbo in one day unless they get parts ordered in beforehand. Just a heads up for you. Jim

 

Well I did speak with them but they said that obviosly will need to be checked they said depending on what it is they would need to get parts etc, iv got 2 days off work so will drive up, but I'm going to ask them if they could ensure they have parts ready and available if needed

 

Yes thats the best thing. Maybe also ask if they have a courtesy car available if they think its gonna take longer. Jim

 

Will do but a courtasy car? You mean for that day or two? I'm not local to Manchester but do you mean whilst I'm there?

 

Worth asking wether 1 day or 2 with them then you have the option. Just worried that they are not gonna get it fully sorted before you have to go home. That way you could always travel up a few day later to pick it up in the loan car. Many garages have loan cars for customers use like this. How far are you from them?

 

I'm in south Wales Cardiff, they are in Manchester

 

Right, so a big journey then. All I am getting at is that you should both be quite clear what the situation is; ie they should know that you are driving 200 miles or whatever it is and that you only have 2 days & that you are expecting it to be fixed at the end of the second day. That way any embarrassing situations are avoided if your expectations are known to them beforehand. Much better for them to know now than leaving you in the lurch when you are up there. I am in the motor trade & know that it may seem harsh but much better than them phoning you after having a look at it & saying the part is not available for 2 more days or whatever. Jim

 

Yep bit of a journey. I will be giving them a ring again, where do i stand if i ask about getting the parts ready and available, i dont want them going in with lets just look at it first approch.

I will ring them on monday

 

Well they could check if their supplier will let them have the part on a sale or return basis. But just talk to them and let them know that you are travelling all the way and have to go back in 48 hours, either in your fixed car or a loan vehicle while they sort yours fully. If they are not agreeable to this then ask if they will pay for a more local garage to do the work. They will probably say no but at least they will be clear on your time constraints ect. Jim

 

The part would need to be a used one.

The BMW one isn't available separately, only with a turbo.

 

Spoke to them again this morning. I mentioned that i would like for them to have parts ready and available. However he proceeded to say that je would need to have a look first to see what it is.

I mentioned that im pretty sure the actuator is the problem and he said that he may need to use his bmw specialist. I asked if he could ensure that any parts are on standby. However he couldnt give me a defenative answer.

It sounds like they are going to do what they can in the two days. But something is leaving me worried where do i stand in terms of the actual fault codes, the problems, and what do i do if they try and only mask a problem? I want to ensure the actuator is one of the things they look at¥

 

Also I noticed that on their warrenty statement it says period of 3 months or 3000 miles which ever comes first given that its a fair distance up there and back iv not put lots of miles since I had it but its gone from 59,231 to 62,243, if I drive up there thats going to add more miles on


I will ask them about this but I'm assuming I'm still covered, they sound like they are going to look but I dont want this being used as a loophole

Their warrenty book also states if you cannot bring the vehicle back follow below instructions

Take your vehical to a vat registered garage and provide them with the warrenty handbook and letter, they must then call the place I got the car from, they will need details of

Date fault was first noticed
Vehicle milage
The reported fault
Detals of parts being replaced including full estimate part and labour

They will release an authorisation number for the amount

Then the repairer invoice the place I got it from


So why are they asking me to take it back up there?

Edit

Just spoke with them and they seemed OK about it if it's going to tick over 3k by the time I get up there, the repair by other garage only applies If I take out a paid warrenty scheme with them not 3 months free apparently

 

When a car is bought from a dealer statutory law covers you for a lot more than they like to let on. This is irrespective of any paid for extra warranty, it comes as standard regardless of what they may tell you. Now I am not saying they are going to try & wriggle out of this but it may be worth you just reading up on this beforehand so that you are prepared. Jim

 

Will do thanks for the heads up