get all the vac lines checked first,,its the most common problem with turbo etc easy fix ..it will more than likely be the lines to small turbo,,this is used to get the car going before the larger turbo kicks in..

 

thanks
Ive booked it in for wednesday and will post the outcome

 

I have the same issue, but all the way up the Rev range

 

I had this on my 635d which was flat until 3000rpm and then flew. It turned out to be a vac pipe that led to the reservoir above the small turbo. Real easy fix. I would recommend changing all the vac pipes and do them one at a time and carefully as the fittings are fragile.
Cheers
Jim

 

Result after inspection
Ceased small turbo £1300 to replace. Gutted

 

id get a second opinion on that,,

 

Second opinion booked tomorrow lets see fingers crossed.

 

I had the small turbo changed on mine with a brand new Borg Warner turbo and it came to 720 all done and fitted. I changed mine as it was passing oil. Sounds pretty expensive to me and it's unusual for a turbo to seize. Has it done big miles?
Cheers
Jim

 

Hi Jim
Milage is 120000.
Had a second opinion today and had the turbo taken off and inspected and it is not seized. He said it all looked good so put it all back together and will look into it on monday.
Could this be a sensor or electrical?

Andy

 

as has been said,,it will more than likely just be the vac lines,,cheap as chips but fiddly job,,and also has been said actuator ...

 

Have they ruled out the vac pipes? Also the pressure converters can fail causing loss of power. These are the most common issues which result in the symptoms you are experiencing. there is a vac operated actuator which when the car starts pulls in and diverts all gasses to the small turbo. It is easy to check as when the engine fires up you will see it operate and when you switch it off it slowly looses vacuum and moves forward again. It is this part that is affected by loss of vacuum and stops the small turbo operating correctly causing a loss of power below 3000 rpm. Nine times out of ten it is a perished vac pipe causing the problem. There was a video on a very recent post of a similar nature and title that shows the actuator I described above working and what to look for. You can see it easily in the engine bay on the side with the turbos. Can't stress enough how vital it is that the vac pipes are in good condition and it's not easy to see if there perished visually so best to just cut them off and replace as a starting point especially if the actuator does not move when the engine is started as described above. If after changing the vac pipes it still does not operate the next place to look is the pressure converters which are again located on the same side of the engine as the turbos towards the back. The pressure converters are operated by the engine control unit and direct the vacuum to the required actuator. Again as stated these are prone to failure. They are inexpensive but a faff to change and it's vital to ensure you get the vac pipes on in the right places.
Hope this helps and as said start with the common issues first to rule them out first as most times this sorts the job out.
Cheers
Jim

 

Had this on my 335d a mouse had chewed a wire on the rear drivers side of the engine luckily spotted it.

 

Get the Actuator looked at and cleaned up first, if that is sticking then the Turbo doesn't operate. That was the only issue mine had when I bought it 2 years ago due to the fact it had been sitting around for a bit.

 

I didn't know you can clean actuator....

also, he said some garage said seized turbo and 1800 bill and to my surprise you all just went on like nothing happened. I would write a review to notify others about that place that steals money from other motorists! if you do nothing, this will go unnoticed. I too was a victim of few of these cowboys and I still plan to contact one who changed the oil in gearbox and calculated 17 liters of oil, plus used mine old one 3 liters saying that it was too black.....At that time, I had a EKG machine on my body to measure my heart so I didn't want to investigate or argue, but it is still on my list several months later.

back to the topic:
I had this multiple times and just to tell you, it's never ending story. I had hole even on an aluminium hose from the intercooler that was loosing the boost but diagnostics didn't pick it up. then it was EGR solenoid or actuator below the intake on the right side that I changed myself and it helped to bring some torque back, but it is not as it was before. Also, I had dislocated red charger hose for about 2x. and again there are vac pipes and plethora other things to check, such as both pressure converters for both turbos, fiddly job to even remove them and even tho, I tried it was too fiddly for my fingers so garage did it, but didnt help. But at this stage, I think that turbos are not pulling as they once were, since it has more than 130k miles on it and wear aspect comes to my mind.
but I also heard about people having hole in the vacuum granate shaped canister among other things. and lastly, as someone suggested there is that rod that pulls back when starting the car, and releasing when switching off the car, lastly it developed noisy release as opposed to before when it was quiet (about 1 minute after switching the engine). so not sure what's up with that...