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Discussion Starter #1
Upgraded my 205 55 16 stock wheels with 225 40 18/s and now this noise happens only when i put my foot on or off the gas?

Please help! is the car safe to drive?

Any opinions on what this is?

 

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I think you've effectively taken some suspension away and you're getting more wheel noise from the thinner sidewall tyres, and will especially on the cobble type roadway. Try again on smooth tarmac, though the tyre noise will almost always be louder, and you'll probably also get a harsher ride if you're honest.

Tyre size comparison
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The noise is the same even on smooth tarmac, here is a better video
Definitely sounds like something isn’t right

the old wheels were 7J et34 and the new are 8j et40
 

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Is it the clanking? It's a lot louder in this video, but listening to the first you can hear it too, now! It doesn't sound like it's wheel related unless somethings been caught or moved when you fitted them and is rotating with them or the prop.

I'd look at the prop to couplings, bearings and mounts and the prop to diff and axle and wheel joints.

If it were my landrover I'd suggest front CV joints and UJ's on the prop shafts ...
 

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Something else to check would be the metal brake dust shields, one might be loose or ever so slightly bent, just enough to catch at the right time. It’s not constant enough; to me it doesn’t sound like it’s clanking with every revolution of the wheel. What happens when you jack the rear up and manually spin the wheels?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Plenty of food for thought thanks everyone...
Having looked close it seems as if the lower control arms on the rear have pushed the dust shield into the brake disc from behind!

So next step trim/re move shields?Any ideas why both control arms would push into the brakes just with a new set of wheels ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I spin the wheels there is a scraping off the shield but can’t replicate the exact noise as of yet..
 

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The clang will come from sprung load of that shield releasing, try bending it back a small amount to see if it stops and also that there’s nothing else touching it or caught up. I’m assuming you’re upgraded wheels have the correct ET?

Your noise and explanation shown perfectly HERE
Don’t worry about it referring to the front, same principal applies.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The clang will come from sprung load of that shield releasing, try bending it back a small amount to see if it stops and also that there’s nothing else touching it or caught up. I’m assuming you’re upgraded wheels have the correct ET?

Your noise and explanation shown perfectly HERE
Don’t worry about it referring to the front, same principal applies.
Thank you!! thats the exact noise so Ill get on the shields to try and fix!

With regards to the wheels I went from 7J ET34 to 8J ET40 which according to willtheyfit moves them 18.7mm closer to the strut....
Everything seems to have cleared the wheel for now, wheel isnt touching strut and can turn full width of the arch, how would I know if I needed a spacer?
 

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A spacer if everything else is fine is purely for aesthetic reasons. I’d concentrate on the clang for now and decide afterwards. From your video the wheels aren’t lost in the wheel arches so I wouldn’t worry. Personally I don’t like spacers but lots of people use them.
 

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With regards to the wheels I went from 7J ET34 to 8J ET40 which according to willtheyfit moves them 18.7mm closer to the strut....
That sounds a lot but a standard 18" Style 193 is 8x18 ET 34 so you're only 1/4" closer (to the strut) compared to them so should be no issues there

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bad news today , bent the shields away from rotors and trimmed them slightly , to no avail, attached another video of the noise.

Also got underneath the car and everything looks normal in the suspension and drive shaft side of things, at a complete loss:(

 

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Jack a wheel up and rotate it forwards and backwards quickly, feel for it catching and listen for the noise, if it clangs, try to work on where it came from. Then do the other side. It might be a good idea to take the wheels off and check caliper mounts, then use a pry bar to check prop/diff/halfshaft/wheelhub couplings for wear/breakages. Try rotating the hibs with a lever/prybar maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Been under the car this morning.

I did find slight kerb rash on the inside of the wheel but this could’ve been here before. Also one part of the suspension did look’off’ so to speakso I’ve attached pictures

There is some slight play in the top smaller bar, Other then that I cant replicate the noise when spinning the wheels or rotating the drive shaft by hand. The cv boots are not cracked and driveshaft bolts are not loose.

Also attached some pictures of the (very rusty) hub, wheel centre bore anddifferential. The plot thickens.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also got this small noise from the driveshaft
When driving the noise is from the back left and right of the car
 

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OK, what I can gather from the videos is that the noise is from the driveshafts / diff / output shafts and I think it's either worn UJ or CV, I don't know how the diff output actually connects to the driveshaft and parts only show a complete driveshaft though there is a replacement kit available (For my car at least). It may also be a broken diff output bearing, they make much the same noise, or even very worn shaft splines, wherever and however they're connected.

EDIT >>> The output shafts, I am told, are CV joints, so it's likely that the bearings are dry, or broken or even missing, causing noise. I assume they can be rebuilt, a fairly easy job if you can get the parts, if a bit messy! <<<<<<

I also saw a couple of places worth looking at, at least one of which, possibly all, could be connected to or associated with the noise.

The first two pics below with arrows point to where I think the bush is broken or missing. Where the bush sits looks very wrong! In my experience, suspension arms don't splay out, they're usually parallel so a bush is held in tension. The third pic shows much the same, a bush that's either bust or missing from the diff to subframe connector. These will only exacerbate any other problems and can indeed, produce odd sounds. It may be that the bust bushes could have been the initial cause of whatever's broken to be making the noise.

I think the noise comes initially from a goosed connector, also or maybe bust output bearing in the diff output to final shaft connection area, and that the diff has too much movement because of the apparent lack of a bush in the diff to subframe connection adding to the mix. I suggest you take the wheels and hubs off and closely check all the rear subframe and driveshaft / output shafts for bearing, bush and connector play or breakages. It could also just as easily, in my experience, to be the diff internals, crown wheel teeth chipped or planet gears broken, but that takes a lot of force!

Big job I think ... easy to do if you have jackstands and time and can work a few spanners, but might take time working out what's actually wrong .. Hopefully I'm wrong and it's something simple, but that's what I think.

269852

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I had a similar noise I was tracking down for ages - speed related metallic clicking / clunking sound. Went through the whole near side rear suspension, brakes, handbrake etc and was in my mind at the 5050 point between wheel bearing (although no play) and output shaft bearing.

Didn’t fancy doing either on my driveway so had my local Indy look at it, they agreed wheel bearing and sorted it out - all good.

I’d never heard wheel bearings fail like that and didn’t get the normal noise whining noise on cornering and put to down to a damaged ball race.

If the new wheels have a slightly different offset it will load the bearing differently so could certainly be worth a look.

Are you able to slave the old wheels back on to see if it’s coincidental with the wheel change or caused by it?


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