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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, so after reading lots regarding swirl flaps I bought a blanking kit and did it myself along with the egr blanking. Checked all the connections and sensors before I was putting the parts back in place so I'm positive there's nothing disconnected. The car would start after and the temp gauge was moving to red. The batery seemed weak even though it was doing 12v so I asked a friend to jump start and they car turned on fine. After being on for a couple mins it just turned off and the temp gauge was in red and it wouldn't start after. Waited a few mins and it started again by itself. Tried to go around the block and it shut down after 2 min driving fine with the temp sensor in the red.
I was thinking that could be the thermostat from the egr cooler sending the high temp to the ecu and not letting the car start but I'm not very experienced on the subject. Any more experienced opinions?
Thanks all in advance
 

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Thermostat on the egr cooler does very little in terms of how much it calculates which about 10% of the whole coolant system, where as the main thermostat on the block will do 90%, so very unlikely to be that



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Can you give more specs about the car/engine we are talking about.

Sounds like engine ECU (DDE) dies momentarily. If there is no CAN-bus signal from DDE to cluster the temp gauge will go the red.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The car is a bmw e46 320cd with the 150hp version from 2004.
I did research regarding the ecu issue but if that was the case would the car start for a bit? Because it did start when jump started and then it shut down and I got it starting by itself after a few minutes, drove it for 2 min and then just shut down again. Can try to send a video of the instrument cluster when I tried to start it
 

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You need to check everything you have removed and also check you have not trapped any wires under the intake manifold

The dde is loosing its coms
If there are no wires trapped and it only cuts out after it gets hot then restarts after the dde cools down then another dde will be needed or yours repaired
I’ve seen this many times before with these ecus



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Discussion Starter #6
Fixed, basically the plus box under the hood needed some cleaning on the terminals hence why the ecu wasn't getting all the power to communicate. Thanks all of you for the help!
 

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Fixed, basically the plus box under the hood needed some cleaning on the terminals hence why the ecu wasn't getting all the power to communicate. Thanks all of you for the help!
That was an easy fix. Did you remove this battery cable going above engine when you removed intake manifold?
 
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