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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Long story I have been ill etc and I have not started my BMW E39 for a long long time. I have a 2002 E39 M 3.0 Diesel Manual, The last time I drove the car properly was at the end of 2013 and the inlet manifold split slightly along the seem and was getting black smoke we parked the car into our garage and there she has sat. then I have been very ill but now getting back to it, and as this was our first car we brought together etc and wanted to keep the car.

The last time the car was moved was when the garage door was changed so the car started it was a bit rough but it started and moved out of the garage and then back in ok (3 years ago)

Today I have changed the battery and tried to start the car after three years...the door opened with the key so I am hoping the key battery is ok in the key fob... (all sounds ok but the car will not start, all lights go off as they should and when I turn the engine over it will just not fire)

I have used a C310+ BMW reader and there are not errors reported, but the car will not fire or start.

I have a quick search on the internet and forum and I need a bit of advice.

1) Could the key battery be stopping the car starting electronically as it is not sync with the engine?
2) Do I need to change drain all the diesel if so would I drain from the diesel pump from the engine?

Does anyone else have any idea's on where I can start to diagnose this fault as there are not errors in the C310+ reader from the car etc.

Many thanks

Craig
 

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Did you try a squirt of easy start or brake cleaner into the intake.
If it runs on that it might just pull the fuel through that could have gone like jelly.
Just a thing i would try.
 

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Sat for 7 years it is quite likely the whole fuel system is gummed up. The ethanol in bio diesel tends to absorb water and form a very nasty varnish which will clog up injectors and fuel pumps.
If you can flush the tank then refill with premium fuel such as shell nitro along with a healthy dose of injector cleaner you should be able to clear enough of the old muck to get the thing going again.

A new fuel filter probably wouldn't go amiss either.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Sat for 7 years it is quite likely the whole fuel system is gummed up. The ethanol in bio diesel tends to absorb water and form a very nasty varnish which will clog up injectors and fuel pumps.
If you can flush the tank then refill with premium fuel such as shell nitro along with a healthy dose of injector cleaner you should be able to clear enough of the old muck to get the thing going again.

A new fuel filter probably wouldn't go amiss either.
Thanks for the info, I have ordered some 400ml of STP Concentrated cleaning formula and going to get 10l of the Shell nitro once I have drained the old fuel out. I have also ordered a new fuel filter.

Just looking for a M57 2nd hand inlet manafold to swap out as it looks like the split is where the oil filter changes has damaged the seam.

Cheers

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,

Long story I have been ill etc and I have not started my BMW E39 for a long long time. I have a 2002 E39 M 3.0 Diesel Manual, The last time I drove the car properly was at the end of 2013 and the inlet manifold split slightly along the seem and was getting black smoke we parked the car into our garage and there she has sat. then I have been very ill but now getting back to it, and as this was our first car we brought together etc and wanted to keep the car.

The last time the car was moved was when the garage door was changed so the car started it was a bit rough but it started and moved out of the garage and then back in ok (3 years ago)

Today I have changed the battery and tried to start the car after three years...the door opened with the key so I am hoping the key battery is ok in the key fob... (all sounds ok but the car will not start, all lights go off as they should and when I turn the engine over it will just not fire)

I have used a C310+ BMW reader and there are not errors reported, but the car will not fire or start.

I have a quick search on the internet and forum and I need a bit of advice.

1) Could the key battery be stopping the car starting electronically as it is not sync with the engine?
2) Do I need to change drain all the diesel if so would I drain from the diesel pump from the engine?

Does anyone else have any idea's on where I can start to diagnose this fault as there are not errors in the C310+ reader from the car etc.

Many thanks

Craig

Just as an update, I have been reading about the EWS system and the Diamond key, I have left the key in the ignition whilst I am charging the battery, when starting I am now getting the following codes that I didn't have before, also I have used the grey key and get the same, turns over but does not start.

I have ordered a new fuel filter and I am going to drain the old Diesel and replace with some shell add some additive to clean the system.

I think it could be the glow plugs or the glow plug relay does anyone have any experience with this error?

Thanks

Craig

273556
 

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The code for low rail pressure on start is the one to focus now. Usual causes a leaky injector or broken o-ring on pressure regulator (at the rear of high pressure pump). Like suggested squirt some brake cleaner or easy start into intake manifold while starting. It should start with that burning aid if it's a pure rail pressure problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advice, I will try and get some easy start from Halfords tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,

I am just starting to remove the covers etc and I have found that the inlet manifold is split along the seam in two places along the long side also a rat has had a chew but thankfully the wires are ok.

Would the splits in the manifold stop car starting? I have read about nuts falling into the engine when taking the inlet manifold off the engine are these the nuts that are in the middle area of the manifold or are there other nasties that I need to look out for?

How do I find out if the car have swirl flaps is there a way by using the engine number (I have a manual gear box if that makes a difference) as I am after one on ebay

Sorry for the questions?

Craig
 

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That's quite typical failure on these intake manifolds. That does not change how engine starts or runs idle as at that point there is no significant boost pressure. Manual versions don't have swirl flaps. Part Nr. 8 are the ones which can easily drop when lifting the manifold off.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's quite typical failure on these intake manifolds. That does not change how engine starts or runs idle as at that point there is no significant boost pressure. Manual versions don't have swirl flaps. Part Nr. 8 are the ones which can easily drop when lifting the manifold off.

Thanks for the tip, if one was to fall off, do you just use a grab tool and torch, knowing my luck it will drop in.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have just got some easy start and this is a really silly question but do I spray the easy start on the two air filters at the top of the engine is that the air intake for the engine?

Thanks

Craig
 

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I have just got some easy start and this is a really silly question but do I spray the easy start on the two air filters at the top of the engine is that the air intake for the engine?
Disconnect the boost hose on intake manifold (EGR valve) and spray in the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have just got some easy start and this is a really silly question but do I spray the easy start on the two air filters at the top of the engine is that the air intake for the engine?

Thanks

Craig
Disconnect the boost hose on intake manifold (EGR valve) and spray in the intake.
Hi,

Thanks for that I sprayed easy start into the EGR and it started for about 1 sec. the dash is showing the outside temp is -3 but it is about 12 here, I am assuming that that is just a broken sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Silly Question time again sorry

Is the clear diesel fuel tube the return back to the tank, I was thinking I could connect a tube and switch on the car and drain the fuel out to see if it is old, then replace the diesel with new fuel and additive? or is that not the way to do it?
 

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If you are going down that route I'd be inclined to disconnect the input line. That way, if there is crud in the tank you don't force it into the HP fuel pump and injectors. Just let the pump in the tank flush the old stuff through. Also validates the operation of the pump in the tank.
 

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I would do it the way you said with the return but before changing the fuel filter.
Then when the fresh fuel is through then change the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sorry but I have just discovered some more faults, I didn't know you had to go into each module of the reader.

I am getting a humming sound from the middle of the car and a slight hissing sound from the pump on the side of the engine when the ignition is first on but that then stops after 10 to 15 seconds but there is no sign of leaks anywhere.

I am getting Fuel to and both side of the fuel filter

I am getting the following DTC errors from Instrument cluster on the reader that I have.

CE Outside Temp ordered one from ebay
8B Gon tone (T3)
C7 Tank Sensor 1 (Fuel pump side)
D7 Tank Sensor 2 (without fuel pump)

The other errors I am getting are

3505 Glow-plug system
09F6 Rail-pressure monitoring on engine start

I have checked all the fuses in the glove box and boot they are all ok that mention fuel pump etc, I have looked on ebay and the sensors are going for about £115 each, if I need to replace these, do you think the pump in the tank will need changing?

Could it be the fuel pump Relay in the Boot?
 

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