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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Bimmerfans

Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong category and if so then feel free to hurl abuse at me then maybe put it in the right place.

Anyway I have been using this forum for a few years now and have got loads of help and useful information so I decided to give something back in the hope it will help someone who has the same problem.

I have owned a 2006 E90 320d M Sport for 3 and a half years and it was very reliable with about one fault per year which would cost between £30 and £100 to put right. I decided to upgrade and I bought a 2009 E91 302d M Sport which was a lovely car and a nice improvement and it worked great.......for a week.

This is the point of this thread, the car was working fine all week but then it started having glitches like a split second total loss of power with the EML coming on for a split second. Followed shortly by a the engine completely cutting out and the ECU having a massive bitch fit. Once I put the ignition on there were 6 errors that came up on the IDrive and if you pressed the ignition button with the clutch depressed it would wait a few seconds then crank but it refused to start. The errors were flat tyre monitor (FTM), driving stability control (DSC), dynamic brake control (DBC), cruise control failure, ABS and worst of all fuel pump failure!!! Fair to say I was mortified and it looked like it was going to cost me a fortune to put right and I didn't get to drive round in my new(ish) car. Not least because I had bought it with my heart more than my head from a supposed "dealership" in Bradford called ISMR cars (don't go near them) and I knew fine well that I was going to get no support without going to court to get them to cough up but I though I was safe as I thoroughly checked the car out and it was fine at the time.

So I started digging through forums and started looking at how much fuel pumps cost and generally having a feeling of impending doom. After a while I came across a person who had had similar issues and he had been quoted fuel pump and injector replacement issues etc and his turned out to be the blue DME relay that sits in the same box as the ECU. It was a relief and I went to the BMW stealership and bought the relay for £14 and optimistically replaced the relay I my car and had the most nervous time ever of pressing the ignition button and hoping to god it started. But no......didn't make a bit of difference it still refused to start and threw up the same error codes.

I was really resigned to this being an expensive fix and I did a last ditch effort to dig around the forum to find answers. Eventually I came across some similar experiences from people who had water leak into their battery tray and had the exact same fault codes and symptons. I had forgotten that this was supposed to be a common fault with E9X BMW's and it kind of made sense that it would send the ECU haywire and throw up these faults. For some reason BMW has two thick cables travelling from the positive terminal of the battery and through the bottom of the battery tray and off to the ECU.

I went back to my car and pulled all the panels off and was possibly the only person ever to be ecstatic when I saw an inch and a half of murky green water sitting around the bottom of my battery. I towed my car into a garage I ad use of which was dry and I set about removing the battery and after a bit of fiddly work I pulled out the battery and I found the culprit!!!

One of the two positive cables was so corroded it had snapped clean off and the other one looked like it was in poor condition but after a good clean up it turned out to be ok. Be very careful removing these connectors as they were very corroded and if you round them off it will ruin your day so make sure you use plenty of rust penetrating oil and if I remember rightly they are 10mm + 13mm. The smaller of the two cables looked to be too corroded to be of any use but I took a couple of CM off the end and found some copper that wasn't corroded and fitted a new connector to the end of the cable and heat shrinked it and it looked as good as new (if yours turns out to be beyond repair I wouldn't worry too much as its only 1ft of cable with simple connectors and I don't think even BMW could charge you a lot to replace it). I cleaned and dried the battery tray and cleaned off the threads on the connectors and replaced the nuts and fitted everything back together and to my huge relief the car started as if nothing had ever happened apart from me having to set the time and date again.

I wont go into the job too much but when playing with the battery on these things you can cause huge amounts of damage and just a few things I did to be safe was put insulation tape on all the connectors when I pulled them off to prevent anything shorting out. Also, I was told from a reliable source to turn on the sidelights (not headights as the ignition will be off so they wont turn on) so that when you reconnect the battery they will take some of the power surge away and help prevent it from frying the many modules that your car has. Might be a myth but it doesn't hurt to do it so I thought why not.

I know this has been a bit of a story but I wanted to include all the detail so that if someone else comes into a situation like me and they find this it will reassure them that it could be an easy fix. In all this fault cost me £14 which was for the relay that I didn't even need.

Hope this helps someone and i'm trying to add pictures so you can see what I was faced with.

Kind regards

Gordy

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Hi m8 ,Can the ecu faults be cured or is it a new ecu ?? m8 has got faults on but don't want to get the ecu repaired and still have the same faults .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi,

The ECU turned out to be fine although it was throwing up error codes it was just because the positive cable had snapped. Once I'd figured out what was wrong and repaired the cable I started the car and all the error codes had disappeared and the car was as good as new.

What problems is your friend having with his car?
 

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E90 320d cranks but doesn't start

Hi Bimmerfans

Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong category and if so then feel free to hurl abuse at me then maybe put it in the right place.

Anyway I have been using this forum for a few years now and have got loads of help and useful information so I decided to give something back in the hope it will help someone who has the same problem.

I have owned a 2006 E90 320d M Sport for 3 and a half years and it was very reliable with about one fault per year which would cost between £30 and £100 to put right. I decided to upgrade and I bought a 2009 E91 302d M Sport which was a lovely car and a nice improvement and it worked great.......for a week.

This is the point of this thread, the car was working fine all week but then it started having glitches like a split second total loss of power with the EML coming on for a split second. Followed shortly by a the engine completely cutting out and the ECU having a massive bitch fit. Once I put the ignition on there were 6 errors that came up on the IDrive and if you pressed the ignition button with the clutch depressed it would wait a few seconds then crank but it refused to start. The errors were flat tyre monitor (FTM), driving stability control (DSC), dynamic brake control (DBC), cruise control failure, ABS and worst of all fuel pump failure!!! Fair to say I was mortified and it looked like it was going to cost me a fortune to put right and I didn't get to drive round in my new(ish) car. Not least because I had bought it with my heart more than my head from a supposed "dealership" in Bradford called ISMR cars (don't go near them) and I knew fine well that I was going to get no support without going to court to get them to cough up but I though I was safe as I thoroughly checked the car out and it was fine at the time.

So I started digging through forums and started looking at how much fuel pumps cost and generally having a feeling of impending doom. After a while I came across a person who had had similar issues and he had been quoted fuel pump and injector replacement issues etc and his turned out to be the blue DME relay that sits in the same box as the ECU. It was a relief and I went to the BMW stealership and bought the relay for £14 and optimistically replaced the relay I my car and had the most nervous time ever of pressing the ignition button and hoping to god it started. But no......didn't make a bit of difference it still refused to start and threw up the same error codes.

I was really resigned to this being an expensive fix and I did a last ditch effort to dig around the forum to find answers. Eventually I came across some similar experiences from people who had water leak into their battery tray and had the exact same fault codes and symptons. I had forgotten that this was supposed to be a common fault with E9X BMW's and it kind of made sense that it would send the ECU haywire and throw up these faults. For some reason BMW has two thick cables travelling from the positive terminal of the battery and through the bottom of the battery tray and off to the ECU.

I went back to my car and pulled all the panels off and was possibly the only person ever to be ecstatic when I saw an inch and a half of murky green water sitting around the bottom of my battery. I towed my car into a garage I ad use of which was dry and I set about removing the battery and after a bit of fiddly work I pulled out the battery and I found the culprit!!!

One of the two positive cables was so corroded it had snapped clean off and the other one looked like it was in poor condition but after a good clean up it turned out to be ok. Be very careful removing these connectors as they were very corroded and if you round them off it will ruin your day so make sure you use plenty of rust penetrating oil and if I remember rightly they are 10mm + 13mm. The smaller of the two cables looked to be too corroded to be of any use but I took a couple of CM off the end and found some copper that wasn't corroded and fitted a new connector to the end of the cable and heat shrinked it and it looked as good as new (if yours turns out to be beyond repair I wouldn't worry too much as its only 1ft of cable with simple connectors and I don't think even BMW could charge you a lot to replace it). I cleaned and dried the battery tray and cleaned off the threads on the connectors and replaced the nuts and fitted everything back together and to my huge relief the car started as if nothing had ever happened apart from me having to set the time and date again.

I wont go into the job too much but when playing with the battery on these things you can cause huge amounts of damage and just a few things I did to be safe was put insulation tape on all the connectors when I pulled them off to prevent anything shorting out. Also, I was told from a reliable source to turn on the sidelights (not headights as the ignition will be off so they wont turn on) so that when you reconnect the battery they will take some of the power surge away and help prevent it from frying the many modules that your car has. Might be a myth but it doesn't hurt to do it so I thought why not.

I know this has been a bit of a story but I wanted to include all the detail so that if someone else comes into a situation like me and they find this it will reassure them that it could be an easy fix. In all this fault cost me £14 which was for the relay that I didn't even need.

Hope this helps someone and i'm trying to add pictures so you can see what I was faced with.

Kind regards

Gordy

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View attachment 126137
Thanks Gordy for your extensive post, and for posting photos, which are invaluable. I had all, exactly the same issues/warning lights as you, and as soon as I read your post, I hot footed it, in freezing temps, out to my car (late 2007 N47 320d) parked in the street, with a torch and mirror in hand, hoping against hope to see water in the battery tray - but it was bone dry - Doh! Foiled again. I'd read about Fuel Pump Relays going for a coffee break, but the stealership told me my model didn't have one, only a Fuel Pump Control Module! Now, any part with the word 'Module' in it usually means £££s :eek So I re-read your post about the blue DME relay in the white ECU housing. So after a resless nights 'sleep' I went to the car and removed all the crap on top of the ECU chamber (white box under the bonnet on the near side of a RHD vehicle), and took the top off. I went into the car to begin the usual process of key in/push button/wait for it to crank but not start, which it repeated. I then did the same process but didn't put my foot on the clutch ( the process I'd become accustomed to, whereby then I'd wait for the Low Pressure fuel pump in the tank to stop making its wirring noise, sometimes up to 30mins, when it would then start, and run normally. It would even re-start immideately without issue if I stopped it and started again). I then went to the Blue relay in the white box and tapped it with a spanner, and hey presto; I heard a click and a clunk somewhere around the engine bay, and went into the car, pushed the button and it started immediately :thumbsup:thumbsup A call to the Stealers reserved the offending relay, for £14.86, which I went and collected and inserted in their car park. It immideately started with no warning lights and no issues - job done:hihi Thanks again.
 

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Seems to be quite common.

But what have you done to stop it happening again? what was the cause of water getting in there?

isn't it going to fill up with rainwater again?
 

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Hi Bimmerfans

Firstly apologies if this is in the wrong category and if so then feel free to hurl abuse at me then maybe put it in the right place.

Anyway I have been using this forum for a few years now and have got loads of help and useful information so I decided to give something back in the hope it will help someone who has the same problem.

I have owned a 2006 E90 320d M Sport for 3 and a half years and it was very reliable with about one fault per year which would cost between £30 and £100 to put right. I decided to upgrade and I bought a 2009 E91 302d M Sport which was a lovely car and a nice improvement and it worked great.......for a week.

This is the point of this thread, the car was working fine all week but then it started having glitches like a split second total loss of power with the EML coming on for a split second. Followed shortly by a the engine completely cutting out and the ECU having a massive bitch fit. Once I put the ignition on there were 6 errors that came up on the IDrive and if you pressed the ignition button with the clutch depressed it would wait a few seconds then crank but it refused to start. The errors were flat tyre monitor (FTM), driving stability control (DSC), dynamic brake control (DBC), cruise control failure, ABS and worst of all fuel pump failure!!! Fair to say I was mortified and it looked like it was going to cost me a fortune to put right and I didn't get to drive round in my new(ish) car. Not least because I had bought it with my heart more than my head from a supposed "dealership" in Bradford called ISMR cars (don't go near them) and I knew fine well that I was going to get no support without going to court to get them to cough up but I though I was safe as I thoroughly checked the car out and it was fine at the time.

So I started digging through forums and started looking at how much fuel pumps cost and generally having a feeling of impending doom. After a while I came across a person who had had similar issues and he had been quoted fuel pump and injector replacement issues etc and his turned out to be the blue DME relay that sits in the same box as the ECU. It was a relief and I went to the BMW stealership and bought the relay for £14 and optimistically replaced the relay I my car and had the most nervous time ever of pressing the ignition button and hoping to god it started. But no......didn't make a bit of difference it still refused to start and threw up the same error codes.

I was really resigned to this being an expensive fix and I did a last ditch effort to dig around the forum to find answers. Eventually I came across some similar experiences from people who had water leak into their battery tray and had the exact same fault codes and symptons. I had forgotten that this was supposed to be a common fault with E9X BMW's and it kind of made sense that it would send the ECU haywire and throw up these faults. For some reason BMW has two thick cables travelling from the positive terminal of the battery and through the bottom of the battery tray and off to the ECU.

I went back to my car and pulled all the panels off and was possibly the only person ever to be ecstatic when I saw an inch and a half of murky green water sitting around the bottom of my battery. I towed my car into a garage I ad use of which was dry and I set about removing the battery and after a bit of fiddly work I pulled out the battery and I found the culprit!!!

One of the two positive cables was so corroded it had snapped clean off and the other one looked like it was in poor condition but after a good clean up it turned out to be ok. Be very careful removing these connectors as they were very corroded and if you round them off it will ruin your day so make sure you use plenty of rust penetrating oil and if I remember rightly they are 10mm + 13mm. The smaller of the two cables looked to be too corroded to be of any use but I took a couple of CM off the end and found some copper that wasn't corroded and fitted a new connector to the end of the cable and heat shrinked it and it looked as good as new (if yours turns out to be beyond repair I wouldn't worry too much as its only 1ft of cable with simple connectors and I don't think even BMW could charge you a lot to replace it). I cleaned and dried the battery tray and cleaned off the threads on the connectors and replaced the nuts and fitted everything back together and to my huge relief the car started as if nothing had ever happened apart from me having to set the time and date again.

I wont go into the job too much but when playing with the battery on these things you can cause huge amounts of damage and just a few things I did to be safe was put insulation tape on all the connectors when I pulled them off to prevent anything shorting out. Also, I was told from a reliable source to turn on the sidelights (not headights as the ignition will be off so they wont turn on) so that when you reconnect the battery they will take some of the power surge away and help prevent it from frying the many modules that your car has. Might be a myth but it doesn't hurt to do it so I thought why not.

I know this has been a bit of a story but I wanted to include all the detail so that if someone else comes into a situation like me and they find this it will reassure them that it could be an easy fix. In all this fault cost me £14 which was for the relay that I didn't even need.

Hope this helps someone and i'm trying to add pictures so you can see what I was faced with.

Kind regards

Gordy

View attachment 126145

View attachment 126121

View attachment 126153

View attachment 126129

View attachment 126137
brilliant post this mate… I have the e61 M57 engine.
Broke down, rang recovery who told me alternator was done, he used his battery pack and drove it to a safe place then sent for a low loader . When he arrive I had the car taken home on a low loader (who snapped the belly tray from pulling the car on by the anti roll bar) which I didn’t see until a few days later. Replaced the bushes, but the car would not start.
Had the same issue where it would wait a few seconds before cranking but wouldn’t fire with multiple errors. The blue relay is working as I’ve checked literally everything now, but after reading this I’m keen to trace this positive cable from the battery terminals.
The positive cable runs over the rear arch on my E61, so I assume it wouldn’t be as yours was in the pictures.. I still have a feeling what damage was done by the low loader has caused this issue
 
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