BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

i have a E61 535d which I've had for a few months. Initially very impressed with the car considering it has 173,000 it's had a lot of work like swirl flaps blanked, reconditioned gearbox and new rear suspension and pump in recent years.

I had it remapped by someone who uses quantam maps who was local to the area.
i have to say following that I didn't feel a massive difference certainly not the extra 40-50bhp and 70 ft/lbs quoted.

it had a few error codes come up concerning glow plugs and the relay so I've had those replaced. The top end power is now dire, almost as if the big turbo doesn't spool up. I've read along about blocked DPF or split hoses. I have no warning lights. I'd probably say from 30-40mph at times it feels extremely low on power. But you can really notice it from 60 onwards. It doesn't matter whether I leave it in D or DS or manual it feels like a sloth.

are there some simple tests for a novice that I can do prior to taking it to a garage to try and pin point the issue?

i want a car that reflects the power figures it's meant to have not akin to a 520d
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
You need a scanner to check the DPF - you can get a cheap, but very useful one on Ebay - a C110 scanner, amongst other things you can check the DPF back pressure figure, and the coolant temp. This will set you back around £35, so well worth it! A back pressure reading of 30-40mb at 2,000rpm is fine.

It sounds like you have a major fault of some kind, but the DPF wont suddenly block up and slow things down, so I think you need to check a few basics first. Check the intercooler hoses are sound, and in place, and then check the vacuum hoses going to the turbo actuators, some cars have electronic actuators - I am not sure if yours would or not, you will need to look.

If the EGR valve is stuck open it would blunt the performance. To be honest a diagnostic check is likely to be the best way forward, as there are a fair number of possibilities, the car's diagnostic system is pretty good, and will normally show exactly what is wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi

Yes it's literally just come back from the garage with nothing to report so I've told them to take the car back in and check it over again.

I can hear a slight and I mean ever so slight hissing from the engine, sounds louder if I get down and look under the car towards he back of the engine.

I imagine this could point towards a split hose possibly hence the hissing noise?

I've put some DPF clearing liquid added in to a fresh tank of fuel just in case it's the DPF to help it along and gone for a 20 min drive keeping the revs over 2000 this afternoon but nothing has changed.

As I said it's literally just had the glow plugs and relay changed although I noticed the lack of power prior to it going into the garage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I've also had a quick peek at the scanner you mentioned.

Around £40 including P&P do you guys advocate Carly and should I just spend a bit extra and get the cable and pro app?

I take it that will do diagnostics but more in depth
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I've been monitoring my MPG as well. It's around 22-25mpg around town and that's feather touching the throttle. No point hammering it as it isn't performing like a 535d.

Is this normal? Any more suggestions? I have someone coming to fault code read the car on Monday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,093 Posts
So when did the lack of power start?
Was it after the remap?

Or was the last thing that happened something else?

Was it running powerful before the remap?

Scanner ideas good :)

The good thing is it sound like you had it running right, felt the power and then....?
The hissing could be significant....very!

mpg around town isn't clever, but that's using lots, on 35 mile runs to work (diff model) I now see 34.... there's a real world mpg section on here somewhere :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It's definitely after the remap that I feel the car has lost power.

I have got the mapper coming back to take the map off on Monday and return the car to standard just to be sure it's not the map although with it being one of the more well known maps I hope it's not that!

The car is then going to the garage on Wednesday for diagnostic checks and any works.

I've read about changing thermostats possibly EGR stats, can anyone confirm
The two stats worth replacing that Fail as I'd rather get those changed for peace of mind also
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
It sounds like the remap is the problem, the return to std should tell all.

Why oh why BMW stopped fitting a temp gauge on these, it is so needed!! If the car is running cool it will adversely affect mpg, and very importantly stop a regen taking place, both the main stat and the EGR stat fail - the EGR stat is dead easy to change, but the main stat is a bit more involved......any of the scanners will tell you what temp the coolant is running at, ideally it should be around 90C. Check the temp first, as it may be OK as it is.

Re the hissing noise, anything to do with the intercooler piping is right at the front of the engine, further back on the engine, is more likely to be a breather hose, or even a loose oil filler cap! The filler cap washer is there is it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Useful info thanks for that!

Yes oil filler cap is still in place. I'm pretty certain the smaller turbo appears to be working fine but it's the bigger turbo that seems either not spooling or it's working but at a much lower rate then it should.

I've found the EGR stat online for around £20 seems like a cost effective part to quickly replace however does anyone have a link to the main stat as well for me?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,281 Posts
It is generally agreed that it is best to get the main stat from BMW, not the cheapest - but you do at least get a 2 year warranty on it!

Having said that, I believe the OE supplier to BMW is Wahler, so if you find a stockist selling them, it should be OK. Avoid the cheapy ones, you will only end up doing the job again, as they don't last.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,088 Posts
By far the most common cause for power problems on x35d is the vacuum hoses on turbos.

Wahler is one of manufacturers for petrol engine thermostats. On diesels they are mainly manufactured by Behr (now part of Mahle). CLICK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Excellent thank you for the link

Finger crossed crossed it's just a hose!

Either way I'll have the map taken off and then reloaded if it's found to be a hose and nothing to do with a hose
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Right so had the car fault read quickly.

Oddly it came up with glow plugs and relay but these have just been changed so I expect the code hasn't been erased correctly when it was in the garage last week.

It also came up with particulate diesel filter choking - intermittent

Air mass flow meter - intermittent

All codes were erased and then just the glow plugs and relay came back.

I slung some dpf cleaner in the fuel the other day do you think it might be worth putting another bottle in? I know the second bottle is recommended for forcing the DPF to regen?

Possibly look at changing the MAF or cleaning it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Also exhaust flap...should this be closed or open on idle?

Noticed My was open before I started the car up and it's stayed open on idle?

Another cause for rough running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Not sure if this has been resolved???? But I agree with Clavurion, the most likely cause is a split or disconnected vacuum hose on the 535d, especially if you have had the glow plugs / controller done as the inlet manifold has to come off and its really easy to split / displace a vacuum hose when doing this. The connections to the vacuum reservoir [looks like a hand grenade on top left of engine under the cover] are really fragile and easily cracked or broken, as are the hard plastic vacuum tube to vacuum hose connectors on the front right of the engine below the inlet manifold. Another one to check is at the right rear of the block where the vacuum hose goes round and is connected to yet another pressure switch as it has to come off to do that job. Even if they have all been carefully handled and reattached correctly, there hoses go brittle after a while due to the extreme heat and vibration and can easily split just because they were disturbed during any maintenance work. If there are any splits it will cause the vacuum system to malfunction and the various pressure converters / actuators etc won't work or will be out of sync leading to power loss, erratic running etc. Best to replace with silicon hose when you have it stripped down. Not expensive and not difficult, just fiddly and time consuming to do it right. Don't pull connections off, but use a new stanley knife blade to split them long ways whilst being careful not to score the hard plastic connectors.

Another thought......connectors to the turbo bypass pressure regulator etc on the top left of the engine will have been disconnected to get the inlet manifold off. Mine were quite stubborn and could easily be broken. Might be worth a check and that he connectors have been reseated correctly. Incidentally, it was a failing turbo bypass pressure regulator that went on mine and resulted in poor top end performance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Update:

Took the car to a BMW specialist. The DPF was over 300 bar and the guys there said they were surprised it wasn't in limp mode and that he back pressure build up had caused the larger turbo to not engage.

They have cleaned the DPF to acceptable levels to cure this.

Interestingly the glow plug relay popped up as a fault. Now I had this replaced two weeks ago with a bonifed BERU part brand new.

However the one this BMW specialist pulled out was certainly not new so it appears I've been had a kipper and the previous garage has charged for me work they didn't do and the £60 new part I supplied to them was never fitted.

This glow plug relay was changed again and the car is like a rocket again which is a massive relief.

Now as for engine temp. On a run it got up to 74 and dipped to 68 with air con on. Sitting static the engine temp rose to 96....

Would this still suggest I have an issue with the thermostats? The specialist said rather then throwing money at the car needlessly to run it for a week and monitor mpg etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I've had the remap taken off for now until the issues are resolved.

I realise the DPF probably will block again if the engine temps aren't right. The fact it got to 96 although static at the time would suggest they are working but possibly sick open or sticking hence the low reading of 74 when giving it a 30 mile blast of 70osh at over 2000 revs?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
i would definitely get your thermostats changed as your car wont do a regen with your temp reading of 74.

on another note, can glow plugs and the relay have an impact on performance?? as i have two glow plugs that are down...
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top