Hiya, its a silly question i know but i gotta ask sadly!
when i jack the my e46 320d up where do i put the axle stands?, either side of the jacking point looks / feels like plastic so that wont do. Im changing discs and rear springs.
The jacking points under the sills are plastic coated affairs, oblong in shape, if you feel around then under/inside you will feel the steel
You can buy for want of better wording a hockey puck kind of rubber that fits inside these nicely and also fits snug onto a normal jack (under 10 quid)
The plastic is i guess purely for some cosmetic rust protection reasons
But those four plastic oblong mounts are the official stand points
I assume your stands are kind of staggered curved topped type, i rest mine like so, imagine as you look side on at the car, the stand tops go narrow-ways in, so they cup from the centre of the point internal to external edge sideways on, not the length of it (hope that makes sense)
Hiya Tony, puck on order, thanks for info.
But I'm still missing a wee bit of info lol, when i use the cars standard jack to jack up the car, how am i meant to put the axle stand in the same place the jack is ?
Its ok using the standard jack for a wheel change, but theres no way id trust it whilst i change the springs. on all my other cars ive just put the stands next to the jacking point on the sills. but on this car i cant without damaging the area around it.
The square plastic pads are the jacking points.
If you have a decent trolly jack,then put it under the bar under the diff and then put axel stands at the rear jacking points.
Never leave a trolly jack to support the weight of a car.
To put axel stands on the front of the car,again with a trolly jack,look for the chassis frame about a foot and a half in from the jacking point
and raise the car there to put the axel stand under the plastic pad jacking point.
If you have a decent trolly jack,then put it under the bar under the diff and then put axel stands at the rear jacking points.
Never leave a trolly jack to support the weight of a car.
He's a hoot, the car he's working on is the awd version, but jacking/stands the same
I can't rem if your underneath cross member is aluminium, but towards the front centre away from the oil drain bolt flap area, there is (i bet was lol) a jacking bubble, no doubt it's mashed inwards and not curved outwards
But from front u jack that part up, get front stands under, then rear u jack from the diff area (vid i think shows easier than i can explain in text)
So what exactly is the risk?
Have you got a better solution for people that don't have a car lift at their disposal.
If you want to jack up the rear end of an e46 then your options are limited.
Leave a hydraulic jack at each side is suicide.So what do you do?
If you're that worried the only thing i can suggest is this
Get a length a strong H or I bar whatever you'd term it yourself (hehe price a piece up new for a shock)
Have it under a front jacking point, then as it goes onto a rear jacking point, only let it rest 10mm or so onto the jacking point, this will leave enough meat on the jacking point to get a stand under
Slap a jack nearer the rear jacking point under said bar and jack away
Slap a stand under the remaining jacking point
That way you have still only used the jacking point/s
If i was that worried without trying or previously jacked in those/these areas i would just pay an indi with a 4 way to do what's needed and be done with it
Tony
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