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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, having just got hold of a beautiful 318is last week Ive been determined to get it up to a decent level of spec before I get it out on the road. One thing it didnt come with was remote locking which I find most annoying, so I decided to go about fitting the standard 3G mk2 BMW alarm, mainly because I wanted to retain the factory fit total closure system that is operated from the key. (More on that later!) Details on all systems can be found on Billywhizz's excellent guide found here: http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f3/e36-alarm-identification-guide-3t-2t-3g-ews-t39173/

Sadly despite much trawling of the forum and indeed the general internet, I found next to no info on this alarm, and, worst of all the wiring diagram in the ETM we have access to is only for the Alpine alarm for American cars. With all this in mind I decided to spend part of an afternoon in my local scrapyard and remove a system myself, documenting where all the wires were going to and from in the hope I could replicate it in my own car.

So, here are my results:
The first thing I need to point out is that this guide is only suitable for those of you with a post '94 model car as that was the time the ZKE (Central Body Electrics) module was introduced. It is into this module that a lot of the connections are made in order to control the door locks etc and can be found behind your glovebox (8 screws hold the G/B, two in the airvents, two under the G/B and four visible when you open the lid). The other thing of note is that at some point the yellow connector on the ZKE became pink. The wiring to it remained the same.



You will also need to remove the trim under the steering wheel to access some wires on the drivers side, plus the gearstick surround, clock (or OBC) and storage tray/fag lighter area, you may as well get the trim removal done at the same time as the glovebox.

Next up here is what your alarm and loom should look like:


There are two loom parts, LED wiring, two ultrasonics, a siren, a bonnet pin, a remote fob and the control module itself. The module had two parts, the main brain and the reciever with a long wire coming out of it, make sure you have both bits or it wont work!

Now the fun part, you have to start unwinding this mess of spaghetti and making it all functional! Here is how I routed mine:
First thing was to decide where to put the brain, I decided just to leave mine sitting on that shelf thing that is revealed when the glovebox is removed and run the wiring from there. The wiring that goes to the siren is the trickiest to route, there is a mini-loom with a rectangular black connector on one end which stays in the car and a square white one that goes to the siren. There is a hole in the bulkhead just at the top of the carpet in the passenger footwell, you need to remove the shelf thing, unclip the trim that covers the speaker and then you can peel back the carpet:



The white connector will JUST squeeze through the hole, though you will have to peel back its rubber protective boot to get it through. Now into the engine bay, you need to remove the battery as this hole is directly below it:





I attached my siren using one of the bolts holding my airbox in place, not sure how the airboxes are on other engines but somewhere around that area will be fine! You will see a spare black wire floating around off that bit of loom, it is for the bonnet pin switch, my car had one already but basically you need to find a hole to screw it into in order to get a good earth contact.
If you're lucky you'll have a grommet to seal round the hole in the bulkhead but dont worry too much if you dont.

Back into the cabin again and before you start replacing the carpet properly you need to find the violet/white wire that comes out the left side of the connector block hidden right at the bottom behind that carpet. Splice the violet/white from the alarm loom to it.

While the trim panel is away from the speaker now is a good time to route the white/brown wire to the boot light. The most common route is down the passenger sill, there will be various bits of trim to negotiate but as my car already had one of these I cant say exactly what is involved.
One those two wires are done you can replace the carpet, speaker panel and shelf thing so you have somewhere to sit the brain.

Next job, LED and hazard lights. The LED has its own 4-pin plug on the loom so just plug it in and route it to one of the blanking plates to the left of the fag lighter. They just pop out from underneath, you'll need to drill a little hole in one to seat the actual LED in. The red/blue wire from the brain then needs to be tapped into the blue/brown of the hazard switch in the centre console. Again it just pops out from underneath to give access to the wiring.
Now you can put the centre console area back together and move on to the next stage.

Concentrating on the ZKE module, firstly the yellow connector needs to be disconnected and the yellow casing removed by prising off the white rectangle on one end and sliding the casing off. We need to insert the blue/yellow from the alarm into vacant pin 17 of that connector, it controls the remote lock function. I used a female socket adaptor from Maplins for the job, though some people just shove the bare wire in there and hope for the best! You then need to splice the blue/green alarm wire to pin 4 blue/red/yellow and white/green to pin 1 white green, you can now reassemble the yellow connector and plug it back in.

Onto the green connector there are two connections to make (three for 4 door models), brown/grey alarm wire to pin 2 brown/grey/yellow and brown/blue to pin 3 brown/blue/yellow. 4 doors then connect brown/black to pin 5 brown/white.

Almost there now, I found that my alarm loom came with two earth and two +ve connectors, one of each for the passenger side and one each to the drivers. I fed the drivers side wiring round the back of the heater ducting and took the blue/white wire and one ultrasonic round at the same time.
I earthed to an earth point on the drivers A-post, there are existing earths visible to help you and attached the +ve and the blue/white to the connector block under the steering wheel:



You will find numerous red wires in that block, you just need one that is permanent live. You will also find a pair of blue wires going to their own little block, splice the blue/white into one of them.

On the passenger side again you will find a selection of earth points you can use, I then used the feed for the glovebox light charger as the +ve.

Last thing to do is route the ultrasonics and the long reciever wire for the remote up the A-pillars. These covers just pop off if you prise them correctly, then you can run the wires to the top and pop them back on again, the sonics should be facing backwards and slightly into the cabin to get full coverage.

You will find two spare wires at this point, a black/white and a black. I have a use for the black later but for now you can disregard it too. Ive attached a Bentley ETM-style wiring diagram for you all but can also upload a spreadsheet of wire locations/colours/functions if need be.

At this point you can start testing.....fingers crossed time! I had a bit of bother getting my remote to program first up, it later transpired the alarm module was faulty and wouldnt even disarm manually, so new module and all was well. Programming etc can be found on Billywhizz's excellent guide so I shant go into it here. You may find you need to sync your locking with the remote the first time, arm the alarm with the remote then lock the doors with the key, you should be good to go from there!

It is really not that tricky a task, especially as there is no immobilisation taking place from the alarm unit, that is taken care of by the EWS system which is the black box with yellow connector two below the ZKE module. Tools you will need include multimeter (essential!), elec screwdriver, wire strippers/cutter, 10mm and 13mm spanner for battery, phillips screwdriver for glovebox.....thats pretty much it!
So far as extra materials go, some 3A connector blocks, socket adapters if you want and insulating tape is about it. You may choose to go down the soldering route, it is ultimately a neater job but I didnt bother on this occasion as its easier to rectify mistakes with connector blocks!


And now for the total closure system......

OK this is completely optional and when I say it definitely includes some intricate soldering, some relays and a big pair of balls I imagine most of you will have buggered off already, however for those of you still here, good on you! :thumbsup

I think this is such a cool system and was desperate to incorporate it off the remote, so imagine my disappointment when I found it just wasnt happening on the setup I describe above.
The principle of the system relies on a permanent voltage being applied to the ZKE to activate it, usually this is done via the white/red wire coming from the door lock switch, when the key is held in the lock position it triggers the windows to close. Sadly with the remote the only output is gives as standard is a short trigger to the central locking. This is where the soldering and the balls come in!

I found that if you press and hold the close button on the remote it will generate a constant 4.3V in the reciever part of the alarm. This is clearly too low to activate something working off 12V so we need some relays to help and to take the alarm unit apart and insert one extra wire.

Making sure the alarm is unarmed you can disconnect it from the loom without it triggering. If you prise away the reciever module it reveals 8 pins coming out of the main module. You then need to prise the covers apart from the main module to reveal the circuit board:



Pin 6 (pins nearest us, 1 being to the left and 8 to the right) is the one we need, I joined it to the top left hole of the 8-pin connector that exits the unit, mainly because it goes to the unused black wire of the loom so saved any additional work. I snipped the silver connector from the PCB then soldered the wire from pin 6 onto the remaining leg:



Now you can shut your box back up and reattach it to the car, next step, the relays.
I had some real trouble finding an appropriate relay so in the end had to settle for a pair. I found a reed relay (code JH12N) in Maplins that was rated 5V but would trigger as low as 3.8V, sadly its only rated to 1A so wouldnt hold a sustained 5A+ current going through it. So, only thing for it, use the reed relay to trigger a car relay, I used a standard BMW green relay (normally open) that would take up to 30A. Ive attached a small diagram of how to wire the relays successfully, I also included a zener diode to stop feedback going into the alarm module (code AY71). If you have got this far I presume its not necessary to explain the relays functions but just shout if you are unsure why they are needed.



To keep things tidy I got a black box that used to house an EWS module from the scrap yard to put my relays and diode in, and attached 5 connector blocks to feed the wires in and out. These are input (from alarm reciever), output (to total close trigger), earth and two positive feeds. You may not even need two seperate positive feeds but I felt happier with this setup, got them from the black connector on the front of the ZKE, one was red/blue and the other red/white. The total close wire is on the yellow connector, white/red pin 14.
At this stage it is wise to check you are getting a constant 12V out your output wire when the red fob button is held down.
Once these five wires have been connected up you can slot your homemade box into a vacant hole and you are good to go!



Ive cut out the part where it takes me nearly two days to figure out why despite the figures reading correctly the bloody thing refuses to work! :mad It came down to the process of double locking; when the key is used it double locks automatically, therefore triggering the total closure if requested. Using the remote does NOT double lock the car, at least not when used in pin 17 of the yellow connector.
Fortunately this alarm allows you to press the lock button twice and thus solves the problem. Press once and wait for the doors to lock (they dont lock immediately) THEN press again straight away for double lock and continue to hold if you want/need the windows to shut. Is great success! :)

Hopefully the last week of investigating has made life for any of you considering this a hell of a lot easier. Either way I am now delighted that for less than £20 I have just managed to upgrade my system using only genuine parts and it now all works as it should!

Andy
 

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Fair play thats a fantastic result for you. I have an e36 318i 1997 saloon and I would like to fit a full enclosure BMW alarm like the one you describe in your HOW TO. I shall of course see if I can retrieve the entire system from a donor car all being well and have a bash myself. What tends to happen a lot is the remote fobs are not included..Can I just go and get another remote fob and just re-program it to fit my system ???
 

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Was thinking about doing the same to mine, I'm breaking one so I should be able to grab everything I need.

Going to swap the carpets and dash, then I think I will tackle this :thumbsup
 

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Thanks for the top write up, I'll link to this from my guide. I plan to convert my 96 Convertible from 3T to 3G Mk2 in the summer so look out for that update too!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cheers guys, Billy I should prob include a link back to your guide from here too, Ill sort it later.
Beemerboy, as per Billys guide, you SHOULD be able to program a different fob to the system, I think I was just unlucky in getting a duff brain. The good thing about this alarm model is that it is one of the easiest to program using the switch on the reciever.
I have also read about manual disarming of the system if fob programming has gone wrong, someone mentioned about shorting pins 4 and 6 then 5 and 6 to arm and disarm though I think this is wrong.
If you have taken the reciever module off and have the pins nearest you, 1 is left and 8 is right. Pin 5 is permanent live (5V) and shorting with 6 will arm and 8 will disarm. If all else fails you can short all 8 pins together and whilst holding them short, unplug the 24pin main connector, that way the brain is disarmed and unplugged so you can still use your car!
 

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Well thank you for this guide saved me a load of head scratching and time

using this and a few notes from billy's guides i replaced my my fobless 2t system with a 3g mk2 this evening and is all working ok (best bit the alarm was free mate picked up a coupe for spares for his track car)

only things to add for anybody planning the same thing most of the wires are connected in the same places on the 2t (the green white wire on the yellow plug wasn't thats about it) so trace the wires and you can connect to the 3g loom the ultrasonics just plug into the 3g so thats easy i had to use my led from the 2t as the car i took the alarm out of had a fire in the loom behind the centre console so the ultrasonics shut off switch isn't in use atm the led was connected to the grey and brown wire (grey being live)

i think thats about it took me about 3 hours in total to remove the old and refit the new alarm and get it working couldn't get it to code to the fob thats where billy's guide came in handy (Cheers Billy)

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mods, I've just revisited this thread to reacquaint myself with my wiring, only discovered its not in the 'guide' section of this subforum.
Could one of you move it across for me just to make it easier to access?

Cheers
Andy
 

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Keeping this going carbers911 and looking at your circuit diagram, did you work out what the individual siren wires did? Mrs MNB has a 97P Z3 for sunny day and Europe trips with the 3G Mk2 which came without the siren disable key. This means the battery can't be disconnected without annoying the neighbours and because the car is kept in a garage without power every few weeks of non-use we jump a spare battery in the engine compartment to get the battery out of the boot for a full charge. Any chance one of those wires to the main unit is the equivalent of the disable key? Given the limited life of the inaccessible battery in the Mk2 siren, do you think any siren can be fitted or is the wiring between alarm box and siren more complicated than basic 0/12 Volts do you know? Maybe there is proper communication so the siren talks back to the alarm box? Any more detail would be very welcome if you have it thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I never did look any further into this mate, figured it was all working well so just moved on!
Funnily enough we dont have the disable key here either but fortunately the backup battery is so weak that it peters out into silence after about a minute!
Id be surprised if any of the four wires were the equivalent of the disable key as when you pull the loom connector off the siren it sounds anyway. Unless its like a bomb where if you disable the correct wire it wont go off?!
I imagined the disable key to simply be an internal switch in the siren that prevented it from sounding.
Sorry I cant be any more help.
 

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Sorry I cant be any more help.
You have helped - your siren discharges without ill effects. There seem to be quite a few posts saying once the siren is discharged bad things happen. Maybe I'll have a play over the winter, six old cars between us mostly on SORN so never enough time but if I find more I'll report back. Thanks.
 

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Don't suppose anyone has or knows where I can get hold of the wiring diagram for the old 3T alarm do they. My car has this loom installed and I'm hoping if there's a diagram somewhere then I can save some time fiddling around trying to identify which wire goes to what when I connect up the new 3G MkII alarm. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
 
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