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F13 640d inlet manifold replacement

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5.4K views 27 replies 6 participants last post by  IM2024  
#1 ·
Hi there,

Took my 2013 640d in to my local indy today after noticing several problems like poor acceleration.

I have been told the intake manifold is heavily carboned up due to some kind of lever becoming jammed on. I have been quoted £1500 for a replacement manifold and walnut blast. I am guessing a good chunk of this cost is from an OEM BMW manifold, yet I have seen brand new third party N57 inlet manifolds for sale at about £200 (darkside developments).

Can anyone vouch for Darkside, or any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, B

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#2 ·
I have fitted a Darkside manifold on my 2014 640d and it was very good quality and fitted spot on. It is a reasonably straight forward job and took me about an hour and a half to do on the drive. I am a mechanic by a previous trade and previously cleaned my original manifold and reset the swirl flap parameters but then manifolds we’re around £800. I would not hesitate to fit one of their manifolds and mine has been perfect. Just as a side note you will need to reset your air mass adaptions after fitting.
Cheers
Jim
 
#7 ·
Would they agree to guaranteee the work and not the part or perhaps source a manifold themselves as there are a number around which I think are probably the same as sold by Darkside. Cleaning and blanking is an option as Johnny says.. Shame you are not local to me as I would happily fit it for you as it’s straight forward.
cheers
Jim
 
#9 ·
Nah, I don't think they'll budge. If I can just get it cleaned and have the flaps blanked, I think I'll go for that.

It's strange because I got a wheel changed on my old E92 with them, and that was a secondhand wheel and they didn't ask any questions. More to go wrong with an engine I suppose?
 
#10 ·
The biggest issue with the swirl flaps is the mechanism wears and when you start the car first thing the actuator does a sweep and because of the wear it goes beyond the parameters which puts it in limp mode but does not throw a engine management light. When I first cleaned my manifold I had to put an stop On the actuator which worked well for about 18 months then did the same. That’s why I opted to just change the manifold.
cheers
Jim
 
#17 ·
If they have been sticking then the part where spindle goes through will be worn, they are plastic flaps so don’t do the damage older metal ones did but I would leave them in as you are just asking for issues down the line.
While manifold is off it’s the time to either ditch the flaps or replace manifold or you will be in for the labour to do it again
 
#22 ·
So a little update. I got my car back today and they have done a walnut blast to clean it out.

However, I have been told that the swirl flap motor could be jammed, so it might not be just the manifold that needs replacing.

I've seen a used N57 inlet manifold with the motor included. Thoughts?
 
#26 ·
I'd have no issues with getting a used one and refurbing it to as BMW intended and swapping them out on account of that's what I did! ;)

I linked to a complete one in my earlier post

:)


:)
 
#27 ·
The swirl flap actuator motor can not jam up so the issue must be in the swirl flap mechanism. The easiest and most cost effective answer is the replacement manifold which has all new swirl flaps and linkages. You just then attach your actuator and job is sorted. For what the manifold costs balanced against messing about and labour charges its a no brainier for me. The actuator motor simply moves an arm through an arc and can not jam. The linkages however are more complicated and as stated I strongly suspect that is the issue. when the ignition is switched on the actuator does a sweep and it must be within parameters. If it is unable to sweep or goes beyond where it thinks it should stop it throws a fault for failed swirl flaps. You can turn the car on and off and it will often reset as it only does the sweep on the initial start up and not every time. I have learned this through experience of the issues you have been having. As previously stated initially I cleaned my old manifold but when you do this you have to reattach the actuator and then manually push it through its arc and work out where to put a new stop so it stays within parameters to compensate for the linkage wear. It sounds to me like the garage has cleaned the manifold and not made the alterations to ensure the actuator remains within the set parameters and it is throwing the fault as a result. If they have cleaned the manifold correctly the swirl flaps should move easily. Hope this makes sense. I will try to find the link which covered this.
cheers
Jim