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Hey mike thanks so much for spending time to write the above its been such a help. I am stuck i had BMWs all my life (mind you this is my first Petrol).

My Car is a 320i, N43, 2010.

I got this error 30C1 before, my mechanic said but it NEVER brought up the red symbol of "oil pressure low". Like you i have rang various garages and they ALL want to jump to the most expensive part and drop subframe/look in sump/change chain guides. I read on here IF i am lucky it could be a dodgy sensor like you it only came up when i braked sharp on motorway and it pinged up and ran rough. As your advice i dont have money to change everything at once nor do i think the car be worth the labour/parts to change every possible thing.

My plan is to let the garage diagnose the issue

1. The oil pressure low -If they cannot be sure what the EXACT part issue is, i will replace oil pressure sensor and Engine Oil Pressure Control Solenoid (i think this is what they call it??), maybe ask them to check oil filter see if thats ok.
Then check by taking on 10miles drive and see how it goes.

2. If above has not resolved issue then guides/shafts.

3. I will try putting in injector cleaner as a last minute cure see if it works or not. (probably will not)

4. Get some refurbished injectors and then trade it in to a new car.

I just cannot find any info how to test the sensors the error codes do not go into that detail for me.
we have the same engine , same year production!
let me tell you something.when red light oil pressure is on YOU MUSTN'T move the car. now i did risked to move the car bcs i was 100 miles away from home and bcs i had the knowledge that if the red light goes away and its not permanent on, then you can move the car.but even then you risk everything.its probably the most dangerous light this and the engine red light.meaning its something serious.and we are lucky bcs. in diesels the engine would have already been damaged.
now if you replace the sensors then do a highway trip for more than 60 miles and try to run full rpm so that the engine reaches 100 and more temp.why am i telling you this? my red light was on when i travelled for 100 miles and then stopped at a red light.this is the only time when the light popped. and not in all the red lights ,3-8 times.when i drove around suburbs ,not in too much traffic, it NEVER popped.its a very difficult problem to diagnose, its like the devil itself.

there isn't a safe, a sure method to measure these 2 buddies, sensor and oil valve.they might be good they might be bad.but its the first thing and cost less so thats why they replace it first.but if you have a more serious problem down there then moving the car after the replacement of the 2 buddies then you take a risk.
i am not so sure that my real problem last year was these 2 buddies.maybe the problem started last year and the 2 buddies were ok.you never know what mechanics are thinking.if you have no noise from engine inside ,chain noise, then its probably not the chain.but you can never be sure.i didn't know all these last year.but even if i knew i would do the same.because this is the right procedure and i said what the hell, if the car wants to break, then i will accept it.fix it and sell it.having a car like this ,even if it is a bmw its a pain in the ass.assistant help carried me 4 times in 1 year for all these problems.i had a fiat for 200.000 km and it carried me once bcs of fuel pump.
or do what a friend of mine did. he put it on adds and when someone wanted to buy it ,he told him ,its having a problems with the metals, shafts, i will make you a bargain for 1000 euros to replace them.the guy accepted it,he never replaced metals ,engine broke.he never told my friend a word.

i decided to keep the car and spend my money, i love the way it goes, i cant find the same joy in new cars.i have tested new cars from same category and cant find anything that good.but thats me. unless my engine cost more for taxes that will come up from new environmental rules, its discussed in European salons, and then i will go for electric.i would have gone bcs i love the way they move but autonomy here in Greece sucks big time.not sufficient number of electric stations supply all over country and electricity costs a lot nowadays too.
 
trade it in to a new car.
Is the correct answer.

Don't spend another bean on this thing - you are chasing your tail with an N43. You'll spend a grand having the chain and balance shafts done, then it'll be an injector, then the NoX sensor, then the oil pump sprocket will shear off, then the diff will start whining, then, then, then.

It's still running and driving. Get rid of it now. Seriously.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Yes. THats my thinking. Its sometimes best to cut your loss. I list it as spares and repairs and someone can fix themselves. I do have a warranty it maybe a shot to replace the sensors (probably work or not). Either way i am not going to risk going on a LONG journey to test it so my thinking is to sell As-is. I wish there was a novice way (sound/error etc) to show if its the timing chain guides/shafts but seems not :-(
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
we have the same engine , same year production!
let me tell you something.when red light oil pressure is on YOU MUSTN'T move the car. now i did risked to move the car bcs i was 100 miles away from home and bcs i had the knowledge that if the red light goes away and its not permanent on, then you can move the car.but even then you risk everything.its probably the most dangerous light this and the engine red light.meaning its something serious.and we are lucky bcs. in diesels the engine would have already been damaged.
now if you replace the sensors then do a highway trip for more than 60 miles and try to run full rpm so that the engine reaches 100 and more temp.why am i telling you this? my red light was on when i travelled for 100 miles and then stopped at a red light.this is the only time when the light popped. and not in all the red lights ,3-8 times.when i drove around suburbs ,not in too much traffic, it NEVER popped.its a very difficult problem to diagnose, its like the devil itself.

there isn't a safe, a sure method to measure these 2 buddies, sensor and oil valve.they might be good they might be bad.but its the first thing and cost less so thats why they replace it first.but if you have a more serious problem down there then moving the car after the replacement of the 2 buddies then you take a risk.
i am not so sure that my real problem last year was these 2 buddies.maybe the problem started last year and the 2 buddies were ok.you never know what mechanics are thinking.if you have no noise from engine inside ,chain noise, then its probably not the chain.but you can never be sure.i didn't know all these last year.but even if i knew i would do the same.because this is the right procedure and i said what the hell, if the car wants to break, then i will accept it.fix it and sell it.having a car like this ,even if it is a bmw its a pain in the ass.assistant help carried me 4 times in 1 year for all these problems.i had a fiat for 200.000 km and it carried me once bcs of fuel pump.
or do what a friend of mine did. he put it on adds and when someone wanted to buy it ,he told him ,its having a problems with the metals, shafts, i will make you a bargain for 1000 euros to replace them.the guy accepted it,he never replaced metals ,engine broke.he never told my friend a word.

i decided to keep the car and spend my money, i love the way it goes, i cant find the same joy in new cars.i have tested new cars from same category and cant find anything that good.but thats me. unless my engine cost more for taxes that will come up from new environmental rules, its discussed in European salons, and then i will go for electric.i would have gone bcs i love the way they move but autonomy here in Greece sucks big time.not sufficient number of electric stations supply all over country and electricity costs a lot nowadays too.
THis is my problem. Do i throw money or cut my losses. Even if i replace the sensors under warranty i don't feel comfortable taking on long drive to find out does it work. I guess mechanic can test oil pressure using a gauge and then it show if it has worked or not??? the timing chain guides/shafts/oil pump seem expensive job. So if the sensor replacement does not work maybe i just sell as spare / repair thing.
 
Is the correct answer.

Don't spend another bean on this thing - you are chasing your tail with an N43. You'll spend a grand having the chain and balance shafts done, then it'll be an injector, then the NoX sensor, then the oil pump sprocket will shear off, then the diff will start whining, then, then, then.

It's still running and driving. Get rid of it now. Seriously.
i will never replace nox again.first time under warranty.error is still running on the back but i don't give a ....if i had to replace it then i will remove it with its catalyst and put a program to delete it.costs less and for life.but it doesnt bother me anymore.
oil pump and shafts are being replaced ,chain is still in good condition, thank god ,so i am waiting for the diff..my friend has replaced it last year in his e90.:) .its like a fixing racing between me and my friend:LOL:.
i hope when we replace all parts to have a car e87 like new when we bought it with new parts all over the car:LOL:

sorry guys i cant afford to buy a new car ,like most Greeks,we own the oldest car fleet un Europe and any used i might buy who knows what problems i will face and in what condition it will be ...at least i know mine. and at least i am happy to drive it all the time.
 
THis is my problem. Do i throw money or cut my losses. Even if i replace the sensors under warranty i don't feel comfortable taking on long drive to find out does it work. I guess mechanic can test oil pressure using a gauge and then it show if it has worked or not??? the timing chain guides/shafts/oil pump seem expensive job. So if the sensor replacement does not work maybe i just sell as spare / repair thing.
there is no reliable method to diagnose if its this or that. if you replace sensor and valve then lock it at your garage.find a buyer, show him the car, tell him what parts you replaced and sell it.you are telling the truth. if error light pops up after you sell it, then its his business what to do with the car.

but if you move the car after the replace ,then if error pops up again then it will stay and the buyer will see when it popped when he goes for service.he will see the date and you will have to deal with it.

that is if you want to sell it. from what i understand you do want.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I meant i will tell the issue and give no guarantee it will solve the issue. I am quite confident the light wont come on after replacement (i tried bring it on but only local drives not more than 25 mins). All i can say is it came on went off never saw it again. Ask them to sign a paper hey sold as seen with issues discussed.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Update on this:

I got diagnosis done, on the journey to garage i had bad multiple cylinder misfires and then the "Oil Pressure too Low" light came up (again), they diagnosed that the oil pressure sensor and Hydraulic valve should resolve the oil pressure low (chain seems fine?). They also mentioned injectors maybe faulty which could be causing the misfires (coil packs and sparks replaced 1k miles ago). My question is could the misfires cause all the issues with oil pressure too low? as the cause shakes and EML comes on same time. Or are these more likely separate issues? I am thinking can misfires cause loss in oil pressure which pings the "Engine Pressure too Low" ?


Jeez i am done with this piece of junk!! :(
 
Update on this:

I got diagnosis done, on the journey to garage i had bad multiple cylinder misfires and then the "Oil Pressure too Low" light came up (again), they diagnosed that the oil pressure sensor and Hydraulic valve should resolve the oil pressure low (chain seems fine?). They also mentioned injectors maybe faulty which could be causing the misfires (coil packs and sparks replaced 1k miles ago). My question is could the misfires cause all the issues with oil pressure too low? as the cause shakes and EML comes on same time. Or are these more likely separate issues? I am thinking can misfires cause loss in oil pressure which pings the "Engine Pressure too Low" ?


Jeez i am done with this piece of junk!! :(
The injector dramas wonb't cause the low oil pressure which WILL be knackered balance shafts.
They are nothing but endless trouble. Get it gone!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
i agree with you get rid. But who wants a car which doesnt drive well and then EML comes on :-( i struggle to get ÂŁ1000 for it!! i guess i have no option but to get some bits done :-( just trying to see which to priortise as i cannot get all done at the same time. I get the oil pressure sensors and timing chain guides/shafts as priority. I guess injectors i hope to get some remanufactured/reconditioned as i just dont have the money for ÂŁ2k injectors on top!
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I agree with what your all saying. Hard to know if my misfires could be causing the issues of low oil pressure. I have been monitoring the oil pressure and so has the garage and oil pressure is not dropping while driving and idling and revving at speeds. I am a little pissed of with the garage tbh they seem to be hesitant to fix my car as they say "we had similar issues and you could be throwing money at this problem and may not solve it" surely issues from codes show can only be timing chain, tc guides, oil pressure sensors, balance shafts, oil pick up pipe or actual oil pump itself. Can't be that hard to isolate where the issue is? But I'm no mechanic so maybe they are right?
 
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