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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

This is my first post having found these forums to be incredibly valuable. I am looking to gather some opinion on a rather annoying fault I have. Let me start with the issue:

Issue:

Intermittent, pronounced loss of power on acceleration. Causing risk of accident as loss unexpected and often occurs at critical driving moments.

Normally when slow rolling at roundabout/junction and apply moderate throttle to accelerate into a gap. Engine feels like it will stall or will kangeroo/jerk quite violently for as long as the accelerator is pressed or for a few seconds. Let off accelerator and reapply and engine accelerates normally.

Can recreate if put in N and then R and accelerate briskly. Engine will likely stall.

Also in N or P and blip the throttle it will stutter as if lack of fuel or air then accelerate freely. Can stall when doing this too.

Easier to recreate when engine is hot. No engine lights are coming on when fault happens, even after stall or violent kangerooing on acceleration.

Work done to try and resolve:

Home scanner showed a 2A98 fault so cleaned Vanos Solenoids and replaced Inlet Cam Position Sensor. No change, so moved old inlet CPS to exhaust CPS position. No change.

Disconnected Inlet Vanos Solenoid and issue disappears albeit performance of car impacted. So replaced both Vanos Solenoids. Car performs better, but has not resolved issue at all.

Suspect it is something related to Vanos system, crank sensor, eccentric shaft sensor or similar rather than coils/ignition related, as when you disconnect the solenoids (and presumably disable the VVT system) the problem disappears.

Dealer diagnostics

No faults in dealer tooling.

No software updates for the ECU or Gearbox are available.

Dealer recommends checking timing which is 4hours labour. Does this sound like a reasonable step? Will be about 600 quid for a speculative check.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
should say: Car is N52B30A engine, 61k miles. I've read hundreds of posts related to this and not sure I've found a definitive resolution

I brought the car home instead of letting them take the valve cover off and dig around.

Question for the knowledgeable on the forums: Would my assessment that if the vanos system is disconnected (and BMWs suspicion that the valve timing is off enough that vanos is correcting but causing issues, but not enough to throw faults is correct) then the problem should be more pronounced as no VVT to correct for a problem?

Also: Anyone know of a good independent in Norwich? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update: Removed engine plastic cover and pulled the Eccentric Shaft Sensor plug out of the sensor. No photo, but had a ring of oil around the plug. The pins weren't soiled and certainly not like this thread Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement but oil nonetheless.

Is there any way to test the sensor as presumably the small amount of oil came from within the socket, as the outside was bone dry.....?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
new update (hoping some people knowledgeable can chime in!)

I thoroughly cleaned the sensor socket with electrical contact cleaner. It was bone dry and oil free as was the plug when putting back together. Then ran the engine, revved it a bit etc for less than 5 mins. Let it cool and reinspected the sensor. These photos aren't great (sunset with iphone and torch) but you can clearly see oil welling up in there.

I am guessing I've have to tackle the valve cover coming off!

photo-ess-1.jpg photo-ess-2.jpg
 

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Another update in case any other poor person is experiencing similar in the future:

Thinking about it for ten minutes on how to test this I concluded 'just unplug the sensor' and disable Valvetronic. Symptoms go completely. Hrm.

Now question is: why would disabling the Vanos do the same? I don't know the relationship between the two systems (if any, or via some complicated ECU logic). Anyone know more?

I am feeling more that the dealers view that the valve timing is out is not correct. As if it was, then either of these system disablements would not get rid of the symptoms. Is that correct?
 

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Hi there
I have the exact same issue on my 2005 330i M Sport Auto.
I bought the car when it was 3 yrs old and still under warranty. The dealers in Jersey said a software upgrade would cure it,cost me 250 quid,it didn't cure it.
When driving u can sort of feel it about to happen,it is just like u say,sometimes it won't do it other days it does it. Doesn't do it in sport mode.
When I come home and park up and put the gearbox into park and blip the throttle it stutters a little then next blip it's fine.
I have never taken it to the dealers cos of the cost of them trying to find out,replacing this replacing that without them really knowing what the fault is,well I assume that they wouldn't know. Thousands of pounds later and no closer to finding out the fault.
One would think this is a fault known by BMW and a cure is there but what is the cure?
It almost feels that the car wants to change down a gear but doesn't. If you put the car into sport mode as u approach a roundabout it will not do it as the gearbox changes down and u can feel/hear that it won't.
Wish someone knew what the fault was.
I also thought the timing might be out with all the gizmos on the car.
 

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Release date (dd/mm/yy)
30/09/09
Status
Approved
Organization
GB, CAR
Vehicles affected
E series
E60 E61 E63 E64 E90
E91 E92
Engine
N52 N52BO0 N52K
Body

Production period (from/to) (dd/mm/yy)
/
Comment on production period

Feedback (all cases relating to measure up to) (dd/mm/yy)

Complaint
An intermittent hesitation or flat spot when accelerating is felt briefly under different driving conditions
such as:
Pulling away from stationary
After a coasting phase
When overtaking

This complaint appears over a period of time and gets progressively worse.
Cause
Combination of adaptive values and an early I-Stage or sluggish VVT motor

No fault codes are recorded in the DME (or EGS)
Measure
After confirming the customer complaint and under which driving condition the problem is most obvious,
carry out the following work in the specific order:

Step 1
1. Program the vehicle with ISTA/P 2.35.1 or higher

2. Clear the DME adaptive values using the diagnosis service function.
3. Switch on the ignition and leave for at least 30 seconds to allow the DK unit adaptation to be carried
out - this can usually be heard.
4. Start the engine and allow to idle up to an engine temperature of at least 70°C with no consumers
switched on
5. With ISTA/D or the GT1 learn the VVT end stops
6. Allow the engine to idle for 3 minutes with the vehicle stationary, the transmission in Park and the
steering centred (NO consumers switched on).
7. Then with the engine at idle and the car stationary, select Drive, switch on the Air Conditioning and
then turn the steering to full left lock and then to full right lock twice in succession.
8. Now drive the vehicle forwards and backwards approximately 5 metres to permit transmission
adaptation.
9. Then with the car on a road test drive at a steady 50 - 65 km/h for at least 10 minutes using M2 or
M3; then accelerate moderately in 2nd or 3rd gear up to 4000 rpm and decelerate by letting the car roll
until reaching engine idle speed; then stop and let engine run at idle speed for 5 minutes, do this two or
three times
10. Check the DME statuses to ensure the additive and multiplicative values are OK.
11. Run the engine at idling speed for at least 5 minutes again

Now re-evaluate the car for the customer complaint, if the hesitation is no longer present no further
action is required.

If the hesitation is still present then carry out step 2

Step 2
Replace the VVT motor
 

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It was an old fix for dealers that they call a puma? Dont know if it still exists?

Puma number is 25742810

It is quite comprehensive but the main thing is to have the software updated in the car
 

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Dont think you can just find out? Think you need to go to a dealer to see what you currently have,they can read the car details from the key information

Unless anyone knows of another way?
 

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The car has been to the garage and had the PUMA carried out.
Software was all up to date.
Now I have to wait to see if it is cured.
Next step new VVT motor around £300.00 fitted
So what have I learnt. The more I speak to ppl the more the pieces fall into place and point to the VVT motor.
It doesn't happen when engine is cold. Because the VVT motor isn't used and the butterfly valve is open all the way. When the car warms up then the VVT motor is used and causes the fault.
The garage I took it to do know about the problem and say more 4 cylinder cars seem to be affected than 6 cylinders.
The only way to test the VVT motor is to replace it.
They don't think it's crank sensor or cam sensors or oil in the eccentric cam sensor hole. Oil is not conductive so would not cause a short.
Cheers
 

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Good little Indy garage just outside Exeter £60.00 inc VAT
Drove the bloke mad as he had to drive up and down the road to do all the bits.Must havetaken em an hour.
Rolling road would be good for that.
To replace the VVT motor 45mins is allocated.
 

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im having this issue on a 08 plate 330i msport. can anyone recommend a good bmw specialist in or near bedford milton keyns or luton that wont charge me the earth to have this done ?
 

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im having this issue on a 08 plate 330i msport. can anyone recommend a good bmw specialist in or near bedford milton keyns or luton that wont charge me the earth to have this done ?
Sorry no good indys around there. Must travel to either Birds Autos or bw chiptune
 

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08 330i should have the newer N53 engine,this fix is for N52 engine fitted upto about march 2007
 
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