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Hi Everyone,
I have put together a repair guide for the B+ battery cable/passenger fuse box issue.
I experienced this on my E92 LCI 320D, but i believe the issue is also present on E90.
Symptoms:
- Car appears to be completely electrically dead, no remote locking, lights, horn, hazards etc, key fob will not insert.
- A beeping type alarm may be heard when trying to unlock the car with the fob.
- Wiggling the fuse box behind the passenger glove box access panel sometimes restores power.
Fault Description:
The B+ battery cable which runs from the passenger fuse box all the way to the battery in the boot has a moulded connector which can become faulty causing intermittent power loss and arching.
BMW are aware of this and have issued the following documentation:
- BMW SI B61 08 11
View attachment BMW SI B61 08 11.pdf
- BMW B61 08 11 Attachment
View attachment B610811_Attachment.pdf
This fault is a recall in the USA but not in the UK. After speaking with BMW they confirmed there are no recalls for my vehicle. This was disappointing to say the least considering the fault is identical / the gauge of the cable and possible fire / safety risks.
Repair Options:
1. There are two options for the repair either purchase and replace the entire B+ cable which runs from the fuse box to the battery. (This is very labour intensive and involves removing seats, interior and carpets etc.)
Or
2. Purchase the repair cable which involves cutting the old connector off and crimping the new repair cable onto the existing lead. This negates the need to remove the entire cable.
This guide is for Option 2.
Parts required:
BMW B+ Repair Cable P/No 611 293 12 133
Circa £12.00 from the stealer, they usually have them in stock as its a common fault.
Tools Required:
- Large Cable Crimping Tool
- Cable Cutters
- Set of Torx Screwdrivers
- Smallest possible ratchet with T20 Head
- Screwdrivers
- Torch
- Heat Gun
- Hex Keys
- Trim Lever
- 10mm & 13mm socket with ratchet
Time Required:
I performed this repair in 4 hours, this is a rough guide.
*Please note the following guide is for information only, if you choose to follow it you do so at your own risk and I am not responsible for any damage or inaccuracies.
1. Disconnect the battery in the boot using a ratchet with 10mm & 13mm sockets, a guide on how to do this can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlGJfVyRDP4
2. Retract the passenger seat to give you plenty of room to work in the passenger foot well.
Remove the trim surrounding the cup holders using a trim lever, remove both cupholders by using a pozi drive screwdriver.
There are 2 screws per cupholder. A guide on how to do this can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fufh_mh09a8
3. Open the glove box and remove the fuse panel cover by rotating the 2 thumb screws 90 degrees.
4. Remove the glove box assy and lower trim panel as shown in the link below.
BMW E90 Glove Box Replacement | E91, E92, E93 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
5. Remove the air duct pipe by releasing the metal spring clip and pulling it towards you.
6. Remove all the connectors/leads from the front of the fuse box.
7. Remove the 2 x T20 Torx screws from the cartridge at the bottom of the fuse box.
Then gently pull the cartridge away from the fuse box and disconnect the lead on the rear by pulling the release block sideways.
8. Remove the 4 x T20 Torx screws from the fuse box itself, 3 are easy to remove, the 4th is behind the metal blower motor bracket, i was able to remove this using alot of patience and a small ratchet with T20 socket. Removing the large black relay also helped.
9. Release the fuse box from its mount by prying the plastic clips next to the two top screw holes.
Gently pull the fuse box towards you releasing all the multi plugs from the rear.
A stubby flat blade screwdriver helps to release them by prying from each side carefully.
10. After releasing the suspect power cable you should be able to free the fusebox.
Inspect the power connector and fuse box for damage.
If there are signs of damage on the fuse box itself it must be replaced also.
11. Release the power cable from the loom by carefully cutting the loom tape up to the centre console.
12. Offer up the repair cable to measure an appropriate length and cut off the old connector.
13. Strip back approx 12mm of cable and crimp the repair cable to the original taking note of the connector orientation.
14. Using a heat gun carefully heat the heat shrink until full shrunk, then use cable ties to replace the loom tape cut previously to release the cable.
15. Insert the new B+ connector to the rear of the fuse box and then tighten the hex screw on the rear to lock in place.
Note the cable is stiff and will need some bending into position. Insert the plastic dust shield to cover the new connector.
16. Gently push the fuse box back in to position connecting all the multi plugs previously disconnected.
Dont worry too much about which one goes where they will only plug in one way.
17. Assembly is the reverse of the above.
I hope this guide is useful to you.
Cheers!
Jamie
I have put together a repair guide for the B+ battery cable/passenger fuse box issue.
I experienced this on my E92 LCI 320D, but i believe the issue is also present on E90.
Symptoms:
- Car appears to be completely electrically dead, no remote locking, lights, horn, hazards etc, key fob will not insert.
- A beeping type alarm may be heard when trying to unlock the car with the fob.
- Wiggling the fuse box behind the passenger glove box access panel sometimes restores power.
Fault Description:
The B+ battery cable which runs from the passenger fuse box all the way to the battery in the boot has a moulded connector which can become faulty causing intermittent power loss and arching.
BMW are aware of this and have issued the following documentation:
- BMW SI B61 08 11
View attachment BMW SI B61 08 11.pdf
- BMW B61 08 11 Attachment
View attachment B610811_Attachment.pdf
This fault is a recall in the USA but not in the UK. After speaking with BMW they confirmed there are no recalls for my vehicle. This was disappointing to say the least considering the fault is identical / the gauge of the cable and possible fire / safety risks.
Repair Options:
1. There are two options for the repair either purchase and replace the entire B+ cable which runs from the fuse box to the battery. (This is very labour intensive and involves removing seats, interior and carpets etc.)
Or
2. Purchase the repair cable which involves cutting the old connector off and crimping the new repair cable onto the existing lead. This negates the need to remove the entire cable.
This guide is for Option 2.
Parts required:
BMW B+ Repair Cable P/No 611 293 12 133
Circa £12.00 from the stealer, they usually have them in stock as its a common fault.
Tools Required:
- Large Cable Crimping Tool
- Cable Cutters
- Set of Torx Screwdrivers
- Smallest possible ratchet with T20 Head
- Screwdrivers
- Torch
- Heat Gun
- Hex Keys
- Trim Lever
- 10mm & 13mm socket with ratchet
Time Required:
I performed this repair in 4 hours, this is a rough guide.
*Please note the following guide is for information only, if you choose to follow it you do so at your own risk and I am not responsible for any damage or inaccuracies.
1. Disconnect the battery in the boot using a ratchet with 10mm & 13mm sockets, a guide on how to do this can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlGJfVyRDP4
2. Retract the passenger seat to give you plenty of room to work in the passenger foot well.
Remove the trim surrounding the cup holders using a trim lever, remove both cupholders by using a pozi drive screwdriver.
There are 2 screws per cupholder. A guide on how to do this can be found here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fufh_mh09a8
3. Open the glove box and remove the fuse panel cover by rotating the 2 thumb screws 90 degrees.
4. Remove the glove box assy and lower trim panel as shown in the link below.
BMW E90 Glove Box Replacement | E91, E92, E93 | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article
5. Remove the air duct pipe by releasing the metal spring clip and pulling it towards you.
6. Remove all the connectors/leads from the front of the fuse box.
7. Remove the 2 x T20 Torx screws from the cartridge at the bottom of the fuse box.
Then gently pull the cartridge away from the fuse box and disconnect the lead on the rear by pulling the release block sideways.
8. Remove the 4 x T20 Torx screws from the fuse box itself, 3 are easy to remove, the 4th is behind the metal blower motor bracket, i was able to remove this using alot of patience and a small ratchet with T20 socket. Removing the large black relay also helped.
9. Release the fuse box from its mount by prying the plastic clips next to the two top screw holes.
Gently pull the fuse box towards you releasing all the multi plugs from the rear.
A stubby flat blade screwdriver helps to release them by prying from each side carefully.
10. After releasing the suspect power cable you should be able to free the fusebox.
Inspect the power connector and fuse box for damage.
If there are signs of damage on the fuse box itself it must be replaced also.


11. Release the power cable from the loom by carefully cutting the loom tape up to the centre console.
12. Offer up the repair cable to measure an appropriate length and cut off the old connector.

13. Strip back approx 12mm of cable and crimp the repair cable to the original taking note of the connector orientation.

14. Using a heat gun carefully heat the heat shrink until full shrunk, then use cable ties to replace the loom tape cut previously to release the cable.
15. Insert the new B+ connector to the rear of the fuse box and then tighten the hex screw on the rear to lock in place.
Note the cable is stiff and will need some bending into position. Insert the plastic dust shield to cover the new connector.

16. Gently push the fuse box back in to position connecting all the multi plugs previously disconnected.
Dont worry too much about which one goes where they will only plug in one way.
17. Assembly is the reverse of the above.
I hope this guide is useful to you.
Cheers!
Jamie