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Discussion Starter #1
Firstly all the usual disclaimers: make sure your car is properly supported and I or the forum accepts no responsibility if you break your car or yourself trying this repair.
Next it is not an easy job, I rate it as an 8/10 DIY job for hardness, just because you need a bunch of tools over and above the standard DIY tools. This includes a proper bearing puller and I would advise a ½” impact driver (I have an electric won) you will also need a 12 point 36mm socket
Secondly there is a difference between the E60 and E61 (estate) wheel bearing so watch out when you order them. The E60 use M10x1.0mm 35mm E14 bolts and the E61 uses M12x1.5mm 35mm E14 bolts. You need to buy the right ones. I recommend new bolts or at least buying Loctite I did both, as I figured 4 out of 8 would be good.
Ok so to start.
Firstly you need to loosen the 36mm nut that holds the half shaft to the drive flange

First break the tabs that lock it off with a chisel

Then I used an impact driver to undo the nut but a break bar would sort it

Now take the wheels off, the disk and calliper and tie up the calliper to avoid damage to the flexi

Remove the 36mm nut and jack the hub assembly up until the half shaft is perpendicular to the diff and hub. There is a reason for this, the proper way to remove the drive flange from the wheel bearing is using a press but you will find it near impossible to undo the bolts that hold the wheel bearing on to the hub with the drive flange on the half shaft. To the pull the drive flange off the bearing you can force it against the half shaft but it has got to better to do it when the half shaft is level to avoid damage to the CV joints. This is not the BMW way but it didn’t seem to do any damage. Note the jacking up is temporary, I would never work under the suspension unless it had back up support

Now attach the puller from the puller set

A bog standard puller won’t do it, you need a heavy duty one of these, it is attached at follows

Wind up the puller and it will pull both the drive flange off the half shaft and split the bearing, note the golden ball bearings!

Next remove the handbrake assembly and dust cover, you don’t need to but it is a hell of a lot easy with them off, also remove and tie back the ABS sensor

Now jack up the hub assemble again until the half shaft is level and put back up protection in as you will be climbing under the hub to complete the job

Now this may sound counter intuitive but I found that an E14 torx socket just slipped on the bolt heads as you need ubba torque to undo them (300nm) and so use an E16 as it stays on ( the bolts are 10.9 high tensile steel, so the E16 socket won’t damage the star). The reason I pulled the flange off first was because you can’t get a ½” E16 over the bolt unless the half shaft is free to move around.
You need a loads of extensions and a break bar

The bolts get really tight when they are half undone as the original Loctite clogs the thread up so spray the holes in release oil and wind the bolts back in and out again to coat in oil.
This shows you how tight it is

And again

You can take the old bearing off now; this shows just how knackered it was, no wonder it was noisy

Now you have to get the other half of the inner bearing race off the drive flange, you need to clamp the flange (cursing myself for using my joinery clamps!!!)

See it was knackered to

Now using and angle grinder cut two slots in either side of the inner race


Now attach the bearing puller to these slots and pull the inner race off the drive flange

Next drive the drive flange on to the new bearing

Until it is tight up to the flange

You will now understand the issue of get the new bolts in, with the drive flange and bearing off there is loads of space to move the half shaft, but with the bearing and flange in place it is very tight. You just have a small gap to get a 3/8” E14 small socket in

Next make sure all the bolts are in place with Loctite


See how you need the smaller socket to get behind the CV joint on the half shaft

Tighten the four bolts up, on the E60 you need to tighten to 30nm plus a ¼ turn, on the E61 it is just 100nm
Now using a wooden rod, bash the metal part of the CV joint on the half shaft from behind to push it through the drive flange until you can get enough thread to get the new 36mm nut on

Then tighten but not to full torque

Now the smart one of you will have noticed that the dust cover and clamp will not go over the flange (which they won’t) but they so get in the way when you do are trying to bearing on so a little modification will help you 


And then fit them

And refit the handbrake assembly

Now put the wheel on and drop the car down on the wheels and do the 36mm nut back up, it needs to be torqued to 420nm and as nobody owns a ¾” torque wrench that goes up to 500nm I just battered it with the impact driver until it didn’t move anymore. It you have big break bar, just jump on it. Then pinch the thread locks on the nut

Make sure the ABS sensor is back on and adjust the handbrake and you are done!!!
 

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That's all nice post Matthew I could just add that I've found it a bit easier with detaching whole hub of suspension, no need to cut a sheald and you can undo 4
E16 bolts without a struggle, even though you are undoing more elements it's less time consuming...:thumbup:

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Thanks for the excellent update, think i may be doing somehting similar shortly. What were the symptoms to diagnose that the bearing needed replacing? I have recently noticed some bad handling on my 530 d, delayed steering response and the back end feels all over the place, just jacked up the right rear yesterday and noticed a lot of grease in and around the back of the hub where the drive enters through the bearing, any ideas, it is hard to see if the gaiter is damaged so is it possible that the bearing has been damaged and it is grease from the bearing and not from the gaiter on the driveshaft?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Lots of bearing noise at 75-85mph (on my private motorway of course)

The grease in the bearing is unlikely to come out of the back so suspect the drive shaft gaiter.

Check the upper ball joint on the rear hub assembly, they are known to fail, also the front shocks on the M-Sport seem to fail at 100k miles (they leak fluid) and that would also cause bad handling
 

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hello mate i have a bad wheel bearing sound pritty sure its coming from the rear of the car hate telling which ones gone as the noises tend to travel. how can you tell which one it is guessing you cant just jack up the back end and spin it like on a front wheel drive car? thanks
 
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