BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner

E60 535d error codes flow control valve and boost pressure sensor , no big turbo boost.

14K views 40 replies 5 participants last post by  Adam f 
#1 ·
Hi all, I know this topic has been covered several times but I just cannot seem to sus the problem with my 535d , I have error codes 004302 flow control valve always on even after I clear it and sometimes but not permanently 0041ab boost pressure sensor and lastly 004a27 intelligent battery sensor.

The car has a egr delete and as far as I am aware dpf delete and I assume its been remmaped , its a 2005 e60 535d , at first it was only as fast as my 320d barely any boost , took it to garage who think it might be actuator on large turbo gone which is a hefty bill with labour but they said they are not 100% thats the fault . When they had the car they said large turbo seems OK but it was covered in oil on casing and I think some on inside of turbo as well , since they jet washed all the crop off the car feels as tho the small turbo is back even more so as pulling away has improved but still no real power like the large turbo isn't working, I've check vac pipes they seem ok but have ordered new ones anyway so I will fit them when I get them. Also if you stand looking at engine bay on the right hand side of engine ( not the side with airbox) there is a relay or something with vac pipe on the wires go to egr housing and if I fiddle with the wires the car starts to idle like crazy like it wants to cut out or run rough , so I am lost please help 🙃
 
#2 ·
t is
Also if you stand looking at engine bay on the right hand side of engine ( not the side with airbox) there is a relay or something with vac pipe on the wires go to egr housing and if I fiddle with the wires the car starts to idle like crazy like it wants to cut out or run rough , so I am lost please help 🙃
I am more familiar with the 530d which has a different turbo setup. Could the module you describe have small vacuum pipes connected? On my car, there is a small module, but it is joiner for the small hoses. If one of the hoses is failing, then your turbo is going to be unreliable as is the general engine running.

I believe the 535d has multiple small hoses for the turbo setup, far more than the 530d
 
#5 ·
Hi thanks for reply , the module looks like no1 in diagram and the wires are near the engine oil filter but lower down kind of under intake maifold...... its just odd that when these wires that seem to come off egr are played with engine goes rough like it wants to cut out , unless like you said I'm moving a vac pipe and not even realising it....

The module no1 is also cable tied to my engine oil dipstick tube im not sure if that makes any difference at all , this was all done prior to me owning the car
 
#7 ·
The module no1 is also cable tied to my engine oil dipstick tube im not sure if that makes any difference at all , this was all done prior to me owning the car
I am not familiar with the layout on your 535d, perhaps someone like @Clavurion could offer a better opinion.

On my car, the vacuum distribution unit sits beneath the manifold in a position similar to what you describe. The EGR valve should have a small vacuum pipe (see diagram), is that present? If the EGR has been deleted, that pipe isn't needed, but you should find the original pipe is cut and been plugged.

If you want to get a better idea of the layout, this video is worth a watch. You can skip to the relevant parts

270087
 
#16 ·
Hmm I wonder how common it is for the wiring to go bad, maybe I'll have to try and check the wiring as well then 🙄
In your case, the previous owner could be the cause. If they did a lot of poor DIY maintenance or used an iffy garage, it can lead to lots of future problems. They perform a quick fix (bodge) which solves the immediate fault, but just puts off today's challenges for tomorrow. I've seen some awful bodges, and with modern cars, one error causes a knock-on effect, and you spend an age on red herrings.

Good luck, just ask if you get stuck.
 
#17 ·
Yes I'm starting to feel like this is the case unfortunately...... even the mechanic mentioned he doesn't think its been looked after very well.... live and learn and try not to take things from face value . Thank you for your help and anyone else who has ideas or suggestions 😃
 
#21 ·
If the rail pressure is dropping or is inconsistent, then it affects performance across the range. Trace the cable/wires as best you can. Ensure the plug isn't loose, cracked or covered in oil/dirt. If you find an issue, rectify it as best you can and check for improvement.
 
#23 ·
Hi guys just a update , I have changed the pressure control valve near the dipstick, the one that the vac pipe goes near map sensor and whoooosh i have large turbo again , whether it was the new control valve or new vac hose I fitted onto it im not 100% sure which fixed the lack of power but it was almost definitely that area that caused the fault , thanks for the help everyone .
 
#25 ·
Hi guys not sure if I need to do another thread or just carry this one on but I have boost problems again...... from stand still I can sometimes get the full boost all the way as long as I keep throttle pressed , if I'm crusing say 30mph and floor it the car kicks down a gear but is very flat and hesitant like there is no turbo spool then around 4k it boosts a little bit , other times I go to pull off and its flat as anything somewhat dangerous really , I have replaced MAP sensor and the pressure control valve near dipstic , im not sure what to do , a carly scan brings up boost pressure sensor fault which I thought was the Map sensor ? The car literally feels like between 2-4k there is no spool in reseve so to speak to make big turbo fly....
 
#27 ·
I think you could have another leak in one of the many small vacuum pipes. They can appear acceptable visually, but the walls crack and leak when pressure is applied. If one is faulty, it will show boost pressure faults like 41AA, etc. The leak prevents the actuators from doing their job.
 
#31 ·
Because you mention it is worse when the engine warms up, it points more at an air or vacuum issue. Cold air is denser and improves performance. If the performance drops when it is warm, it suggests an air issue. Perhaps a hose is expanding with heat, and the efficiency is failing?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top