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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have bought my wife a 54 plate 530D Sport Auto and I am beginning to wish I had not bothered. The car has 97K on the clock.

It all started with smelling exhaust fumes in the car.

I have had the manifold and the turbo removed, the manifold had a few small cracks in that I have had professionally welded up and the turbo was clogged up with soot and leaking where the two halves bolt together.

The turbo has been away to a well established turbo specialist where it has been stripped, cleaned and new bearings and seals installed.

When everything went back together the car appeared to be OK but when it has warmed up say for 15-20 minutes on the motorway you will suddenly loose power. No warning lights come on but the car will only do about 80mph and rev to about 3000-3500 rpm.

I have plugged the car on to diagnostic machine and it says glow plugs 1 - 6 not working, glow plug control module not working and charge pressure control fault.

If you pull up turn off the car and restart it straight away the car runs perfect for a few more minutes then the fault returns.

From the limited information I know is that the turbo is controlled electronically and the fault is related to the actuator.

Has anybody got any ideas, does the turbo need to come back off, does it need to be recoded?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

John
 

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I would look very carefully at the vacuum pipe going to the turbo actuator and make sure its not trapped or kinked, sounds like it hasn't been assembled correctly when putting it back together. I guess all the other sensor wires going to the CAT and DPF pressure sensors have been checked too have they?
 

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Thanks for the reply, I ran the car Sunday up to Middlesbrough and back 170 mile round trip and it showed the fault, I did the same trip Tuesday evening and it did it again, did a 100 mile trip last night never missed a beat. The car is going back in next week and the turbo is coming back off to go back to the specialist to be checked. I hate intermittent faults they are always a pain to find. I will update the thread when I get the car back.
 

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I had a similar problem after I had my turbo & manifold replaced and I agree with kwempe, first off check the vac pipes for damage/kinks. If that doesn't cure it, check the engine temp on the hidden menu, I had a cool running engine (70 deg max) and last week I replaced the EGR thermostat and cleaned the EGR valve - took about 1.5 hours. Car is now running smoother and hotter (although still not full temp) and I have not had any reoccurrence of the fault. (I also tried to clean the MAF sensor but I'm not sure how successful that was.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just a quick update, the car has been back in the garage today and the turbo removed, the turbo has an electronic actuator not a mechanical one so there are no vacuum pipes, there is however a box of electronics manufactured by hella bolted to the side of the turbo. The garage and the auto electrician are 99% sure it is a fault with the turbo and not the car, the turbo specialist is 99% sure the turbo is mechanically ok, this leaves the little black box, unfortunately this is not available seperately. I have managed to get hold of a secondhand box from a turbo with a collapsed centre bearing so that is the next step. The Ford Mondeo etc also has problems with this setup.
 

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Good luck with that.
Just for info, I moved the exhaust pressure sensor out of the way on my car (same as yours) and had my wife blip the throttle with the engine running. Even though not being driven the VNT rod could be seen to move quite a large amount. Obviously yours should do the same.
Strikes me as plain daft, A/ using an electronic control unit where they have always had a capsule to operate the VNT, B/ Putting an electronic control unit on the side of something so damn hot!
 

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Just a quick update, the car has been back in the garage today and the turbo removed, the turbo has an electronic actuator not a mechanical one so there are no vacuum pipes, there is however a box of electronics manufactured by hella bolted to the side of the turbo. The garage and the auto electrician are 99% sure it is a fault with the turbo and not the car, the turbo specialist is 99% sure the turbo is mechanically ok, this leaves the little black box, unfortunately this is not available seperately. I have managed to get hold of a secondhand box from a turbo with a collapsed centre bearing so that is the next step. The Ford Mondeo etc also has problems with this setup.
You aren't the first!
I never realised it moved to a discrete electronic controller rather than the usual vac powered / ecu controlled system.

I did tell people to check their vac lines, and when they said they couldn't find it, I told them to get a new one!

The electronics certainly aren't as reliable as they should be, and it's a crime they don't produce that part separately to carry out a repair on an othewise high precision piece of kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to clarify, the actuator is mechanical and there is link arm to the box of tricks, inside the box of tricks is a circuit box full of surface mounted ic's, resistors etc and a 12 volt motor about 4x bigger than a scalextric car motor.
 

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Just checking on RealOem, the turbo went from vaccum/ECU control to a motorised control unit in late 2004. The engine then became a "TU" (technical update) It would be interesting to see wiring diagrams for early and late engine looms. I wonder if the signals sent to the control box are trully electronic data or (I suspect) the same signal as was previously sent to the pressure switches that switched the vacuum off and on. Also quite odd is that the 535d retains vaccum control of the turbo(s). What I am getting at is that it might actually be quite simple to convert back to the older setup.
Circuit diagrams anyone?
 

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http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

You'll get diagrams there and there might be signal info after a bit of wading. The handiest thing would be the BMW crib notes they hand out when a new engine comes out with generally covers all the updates and how they work as part of training.
 

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hi john. i am having the same problem goes ok up to about 80 mph then dies and just sits there and will not go over 80 although i have had a new intercooler and maf sensor it will gradually get up to 95 but with a struggle. the turbo has been given the ok. There are no faults shown so now struggling on what to do next. Im open for suggestions. My car is a 530 d on a 2002. regards daz
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Daz, the auto electrician is almost positive it's the turbo not the car, the turbo has been refitted today with a different actuator module so i will know more after the weekend, i don't know if yours is mechanical or electric version. Our car never put the engine management light on but the fault was logged in the memory, have you had yours read, whereabouts in the country are you?
 

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http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/

You'll get diagrams there and there might be signal info after a bit of wading. The handiest thing would be the BMW crib notes they hand out when a new engine comes out with generally covers all the updates and how they work as part of training.
Thanks for that link, cool stuff! The actuators, vacuum switch and electro-mechanical both run off a square wave signal from pin 93 of the diesel control unit (ECU) so I would hazard a guess there is hardly ant change to the wiring except the addition of a positive feed.

Having said that JT1 I wonder if the problem might lay in the fact it was welded? Weld spatter inside the manifold made its way into the VNT vanes inside the turbo? I guess you will only know once it is off if all moves freely. As I said mine will move the actuator by just blipping the throttle in neutral, have you tried doing that on yours? The pressure sensor will need to be moved out of the way to see it.

Best of luck!!
 

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Hi JT

Did the new actuator resolve the issue you where experiencing on this car?
I know it's an old thread but I'm getting nothing from my turbo (boost). Had the turbo rebuilt last august and car has been great. Then went and had the DPF removed with remap pushing 271bhp back in March. Now there's no boost, turbo still looks fine, no signs of damage and free to rotate but I don't see this actuator movement when switching car on/off so presuming this may be at fault. Initially you could here the actuator bleeping and clicking for 10/20seconds but even that has stopped now!
 
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