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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, new here. I've had my E60 for a few weeks and had no issues until I took my car in for a full service. On getting the car back I had SES lights and plugged in my reader to load bimmer tool which I'd used on buying the car and just prior to taking it for service.

I knew about it needing a glow plug on cyl 2 and had that down for a replacement set shortly as part of me going over it.

I digress though, the car was flagged with 3FF1 Maf error and was limping. When I put my foot down a second code came through, 3F25.

To me, it seems a bit coincidental that the codes were thrown just after fitting a new air filter, I have taken it back to the garage who took the air filter back out and refitted it after I was told that bad fitting can cause the issue. The car was error free for 1/4 of a mile and again the codes came back with limp mode.

Clearing the codes allows the car to drive fine until the next restart and the 3F25 code only seems to come back on a cold start. When I opened the small cover on the air filter it also threw the code up. Logically to me I'd find it hard to believe that the maf went bad at that particular time or whatever the other code it also crept in suddenly.

To me it seems like either something hasn't been fitted/refitted or fastened possibly but I'm not sure where to begin looking.

The live readings I took before and after the service are very similar so there's nothing jumping out as being different. I'm just baffled where to begin tracking this down without throwing money at sensors that might not be problematic.

Also, just in case this could be contributing, the boost charge hose is very loose fitting on the egr. I've taken it off to check the egr valve which was spotless except a dribble of liquid/oil at the base. Before taking it off though I could physically rock it around quite a bit, much more than I expected.

All help and advice appreciated.

Thanks

Reading after the codes
271418



Taken before taking it in for service
271419


271420


And the play in the hose

 

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Sounds like air getting in where it shouldn't check all bog pipes are on properly.
You could check the vacuum pipes as well while your at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like air getting in where it shouldn't check all bog pipes are on properly.
You could check the vacuum pipes as well while your at it.
What are bog pipes?

I think the best thing for me to do is bite the bullet and take apart the air filter housing to remove and refit the filter to check everything is back together as it should be. I've avoided doing it as I have no driveway and these seem complicated removing many things to just access an air box.

Also for the vac lines, are these mainly hidden under the inlet manifold or are there others that are more accessible that would be a good place to start?

I'm trying to start in the most obvious places that might have been disturbed during the service but this being my first BMW am only starting to make sense of how and where things are placed compared to other cars.

Thanks
 

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Get a can of Brake Cleaner, spray it around your filter box and vacum pipes. If they are not sealed then the revs will rise on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Get a can of Brake Cleaner, spray it around your filter box and vacum pipes. If they are not sealed then the revs will rise on the engine.
I'll give that a try in the week. I've got litres of isopropyl alcohol here but none of them are aerosol.

Our of interest, any of you reading this thread, is the play on the boost charge hose in the video normal? If that's not then I need to take a look why it's so loose as I'm guessing that won't be helping.
 

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Out of interest, any of you reading this thread, is the play on the boost charge hose in the video normal? If that's not then I need to take a look why it's so loose as I'm guessing that won't be helping.
There has to be some movement, or the connector would crack. You have excessive movement, have you checked the internal seal (Numbers 2,3,7 and 8) is still in situ?

I had almost the same problem when my air filter was changed. That proved to be a red herring, and I have since worked a lot on this engine. The upper EGR hose is often the culprit. The split appears on the underside, so it is hard to see. I suggest checking the seal and that hose first. It works for a while, but when everything warms up, the split opens more, and the fault reoccurs.

Shout if you need help!

Changy
271458
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There has to be some movement, or the connector would crack. You have excessive movement, have you checked the internal seal (Numbers 2,3,7 and 8) is still in situ?

I had almost the same problem when my air filter was changed. That proved to be a red herring, and I have since worked a lot on this engine. The upper EGR hose is often the culprit. The split appears on the underside, so it is hard to see. I suggest checking the seal and that hose first. It works for a while, but when everything warms up, the split opens more, and the fault reoccurs.

Shout if you need help!

Changy
View attachment 271458
Thanks, I'll take a look at the hoses, I don't recall seeing any form of seal on the charge hose when I removed it.

I had a good feel around the hose and didn't find any splits but I guess the only way to be sure will be totally remove.

I'll pop the charge hose off the EGR again when I get chance and double check the seal. Do you know if it fits inside the hose connector side or the egr itself for me to look into?

Leigh
 

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I'll pop the charge hose off the EGR again when I get chance and double-check the seal. Do you know if it fits inside the hose connector side or the EGR itself for me to look into?

Leigh
The seal is inside the plastic housing of the hose. The seals are usually an olive-green if they are genuine, so you should be able to see it in a recess.

From your video, the hose assembly looks original. You need to disconnect the bottom hose from the intercooler and disconnect the connector on the temperature sensor. It is a simple squeeze and pull fitting. You can then remove the whole assembly and checked for holes or crack. Occasionally the aluminium tube is worn away. It makes inspection easier when it is all removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just wanted to update this as I am still having issues. I checked the charge air hose and the seal is intact. I made sure it reseated and went out for a little drive to see if clearing the codes did anything with no luck.

I have since had to use the car to head to the post office, I am awaiting somebody at a recommended garage getting back to me with a slot to visit so until then i'm in limbo. On the way to the post office, awful sluggish limp mode again, when i got there i figured for the short drive back I would disconnect the maf altogether, I got a number of additional error codes on top of the 3F25 and 3FF1 - something to do with air temperature which makes sense. In any case I cleared them and it drove back without limping.

So clearly my issue begins around the air filter area right through that section of intake. Would it be worth at this point, disassembling the whole area to remove the air filter entirely and then disconnecting the maf itself to take it away and give it a thorough dousing in IPA as I have loads available. I will likely also get a can of contact cleaner so it sprays into all the hard to reach areas.

Following this, could this be something as simple as crap getting dislodged when they replaced the air filter and finding it's way into the system? The filter that came out was particularly grim looking.

Or could this genuinely be a case that the MAF has gone bad but it took the service and change in air filtration to throw it up?

Thanks.
 
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