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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've spent the whole day sorting out my retched swirl flaps!!!

I'm putting everything back together and I can't get the rear engin cover to get back into position! Any tips?

It's the one nearest the windscreen with the sound insulation stuck to it. It's so flipping tight back there and it's impossible to get on/off!!!

Arrgghhhh!!!!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tilt the back first?

I've had to put everything back and leave it off for now... how much of a problem is this?

Would it ba problem if I cut off the bottom of the sheild with a hacksaw? The problem seems to be that it's catching on the small thin pipes right at the back.

Cheers
 

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I did exactly what you did. Took me ages.
The answer is ....

Remove the lower half of the heater air intake / polen filter housing. It is easy, with only a couple of screws. You will then have lots of room at the back of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You mean remove the pollen filter and cover wwith the 3 spring clips on top and then remove the piece behind it which is screwed into the car itself?

The stupid thing!!! Took 2 hours of fiddling today to try to sort it!!! There's usch a tiny amount of room to get it in/out!! Arrrgggghhhhh!!!
 

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You mean remove the pollen filter and cover wwith the 3 spring clips on top and then remove the piece behind it which is screwed into the car itself?

The stupid thing!!! Took 2 hours of fiddling today to try to sort it!!! There's usch a tiny amount of room to get it in/out!! Arrrgggghhhhh!!!
Yes. Take it all off. It is designed to come off easily for access when servicing. You are even supposed to remove it to change the air filter.

You can pull the back engine cover out but you will never get it back in without removing all the pollen filter assembly, both upper and lower parts. Unclip the wiring that runs across the front edge of it and take the whole thing out. There is only 1 or 2 screws on each side of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks John,

Looking at it I didn't want to start taking more of it apart. The pollen filter and cover comes off quite easily. I'll have a go at taking the stuff out underneath the pollen filter to give me more room to fit the cover back in place.

Some of the small pipes got a little bent in frustration today. Not damaged but a little bent... should be ok surely?

Cheers again.
 

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How did you get on replacing the swirl flaps Chris? :confused
I second that steve :D
how did you get on Chris?
I don't know how you managed to get the cover out in the first place
without removing the pollen filter :eek
As you know I did mine last week and the pollen filter was removed,
then remove the tray that holds the pollen filter in place, there's 4 torx screws holding it in.
Even then I couldn't remove the cover easily so I then took out the plastic plate that is behind the pollen filter tray,
There's 2 torx screws about 2 feet apart.
Remove the 2 screws, but this plate locates with 2 plastics pins located behind the screws, you can't see them,
so you have to tilt the plate towards you and then lift out at an angle, some people have also removed the side covers
to make life easier, I didn't have to, I just removed the plastic button clip that keeps the right hand side cover in place,
twist the clip 1/4 turn and it should pull out, your problem cover can now be easily removed and replaced.

Pictures are:

No. 1) drivers side of engine bay, pollen tray removed, brass coloured torx screw located above ratchet.

No.2) engine bay with ALL pollen filter and side covers removed for easy access.

No.3) the removed side covers

N0.4) inlet manifold off

thanks to the guys who posted these pics, I wish i'd done some when I did mine :embarrassed
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Brill!!! Hey thanks guys!!!

The swirl flaps themselve were VERY easy it was getting to them and disconecting all the bits and bobs from the manifold and working in very tight, compact BMW engineering where they want their trained mechanics to go and not the owner!!!

Me and a friend started at 10am and finshed about 3pm. We then spent 2 hours trying to put back that back cover - hence the reason for jumping on the computer and asking for help.... what a pain! The write up I refered to in a previous post was AMAZING! It was very detailed and helped us out so much.

This one...

Just found a useful post from ak186 giving instructions for removing the manifold.

These instruction coupled with the step by step photo guide included in May 2009's Edition of total bmw should be enough information to do the job surely?

Quote:
Disconnect battery.

Remove top cover on engine

Undo the pollen filter top and remove with filter

Unscrew pollen filter housing (cables/hoses which run in front of this housing must be un-clipped and removed from the trunking before pollen filter housing can be removed.The cables/hoses will just rest across the engine)

The whole engine will now be exposed - now remove the sound proof cover at rear of engine (2 bolts) this can be tricky to remove if not removed before. Mine had a cable clipped to the bottom of the cover right at the back so if it does not pull out have a look and see if the cable clip is still in place.

Unclip the 2 hoses from the EGR valve and also the air supply hose to the valve.

Unbolt dipstick holder clip from manifold

Top of manifold - unplug all the injectors and undo the 2 little torx head bolts (5mm socket) which hold the harness. There is a plastic clip to remove which you will notice on the top branch of the manifold. The harness can now be slid towards the injectors and this should release the keyslot type clip which holds it to the manifold. The harness can now be swung out of the way.

Release sensor cable grommet from rightside of manifold

Now working from inside to outside of the manifold undo the 8 top bolts (10mm socket) and then the 5 nuts (11mm socket) which are located on the studs. (These are NOT mega tight at 10 and 15 Nm of torque and SHOULD NOT be murdered up when replacing)

The bolts are capsulated and will not fall out of the manifold but the nuts WILL fall if not careful when removed.

Remove the 3 electrical connectors - all are on the right hand side of the manifold - all have metal clips that must be pushed to release them. There is one right at the back of the manifold, one at the front about 10 cm behind the EGR valve and one about 10 cm from the rear of the manifold.

Pull off the 3 vacuum pipes - 2 below the EGR flange at the front of the manifold and one halfway along the right side. There is also a striped vacuum hose which is close to the dipstick mounting on the manifold - this can be left on since it is connected to the valve that operates the swirl flaps ie the other end of the hose is connected to the manifold so not much point in removing it.
If you got pictures to speak those thousand words I'd love to see them! Thanks dude!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Ahhhh... thanks SlowTech for post and for the PM.

I'll give it a go soon.

Do you have larger photos to replace photos 2, 3 & 4 with?

They seem to be very small compared with photo one.
(I'm not compaining or being ungreatful!! lol)

Cheers buddy!
 
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