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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally my car has been collected from the garage, along with new coilovers (no rubbing issues on the springs), anti roll bar, drop links, new driveshaft and hub, new rear discs and pads, and some welding! Phew!

On the way home, temp gague gets to middle and stays there-solid.
Get to lights and it starts to go to 3/4, but as soon as I rev the engine it drops.
Get home, sit it on the drive and it rises. Blip the throttle and it starts to go down again. I open the bonnet and the fan is spining on tickover, slowly.

Any ideas? Is it the stat or the viscous fan?


(PS From what I can tell, its not using any water).

Thanks for the helpful posts! :thumbsup
 

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BFuk Legend
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It sounds like the fan maybe weak.
With the engine OFF, try and spin the fan by hand. If it turns with little resistance it will need a new coupling. :thumbsup
The stat is worth changing anyway if you have never changed it, they seem to be a service item with my cars ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It sounds like the fan maybe weak.
With the engine OFF, try and spin the fan by hand. If it turns with little resistance it will need a new coupling. :thumbsup
The stat is worth changing anyway if you have never changed it, they seem to be a service item with my cars ;)
Yet again a top response!

Thanks for that, will probably get both done.

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just been out in it again, different things are happening.
Gague di not go up when stopped, but no hot air from heater.
Revved it when pulling away, hey presto, hot air :confused

Give us a clue!!!
 

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BFuk Legend
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It could be a big air lock, have you tried bleeding the cooling system?
Another thing these used to be common for are the impellers falling off the waterpump and not circulating the coolant properly mate.
I would definatly get to the bottom of it because these do not like to be overheated. :frown
Are the top and bottom rad hoses hot?
 

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How to bleed the cooling system.
1.Jack the front of the vehicle up onto stands as high as possible,
2.Turn the ignition on,engine off,heater on fan setting 1 and temperature fully hot,
3.Remove the rad cap/expansion cap,remove the bleed screw from the rad and IF you have them the bleed screw(s) from the thermostat housing/top hose, return pipe or EGR thermostat.
4.Fill the radiator up and keep pouring till there are no more air bubbles coming out from the bleeds, when good then install bleeds and tighten down(don't snap them),ensure the rubber O-rings/seals are still on the screws/on the bleed holes.
5.Suck some water out so it's not full to the brim, replace the cap and then start the car. Run her up and check for heat from the vents when warm and check if over heating still persists.
6.If good then check the water level again in the morning when cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for these respones.

I will try to bleed it tomorrow and see how we go on.

However, I think I will have a new pump and maybe a viscous coupling done anyway, since these seem to hate being overheated as you say.
 

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BFuk Legend
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If you are gonna go that route, change the thermostat, water pump and fan coupling and new coolant. Shouldnt cost more than £100 in parts. Not too bad a job. Remember the fan is on a left hand thread. :thumbsup
 
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