27BB relates to exhaust vanos control, I'd check the solenoid valves for signs of oil leakage (perished o-ring seals). Also check if you have the upgraded timing chain tensioner, there's a youtube vid showing the difference if you're not sure, titled N42 timing chain tensioner or something like that.
Even the smallest air leak on these will cause problems!

 

Thanks, I'll take a look.


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I have removed the solenoids and replaced the rings as they were brittle and broke very easily. The solenoids were coated with sludge so I cleaned them up and put them back in.

There were signs of oil leaking down the front of the engine previous to that but no longer.

Still idles rough as a badgers...

I will take a look at the tensioner next.

 

Sounds like another neglected N42. Try unplugging the maf sensor, it should help with the rough idle until you sort the air leak/split hose.

 

Funny thing is it doesn't alter the idle when the MAF is unplugged. It passes for a milli second but carries on chugging.

 

Unplug the valvetronic motor on the cylinder head and see if that smooths it out. Do you know what condition the ccv/oil separator is in?

 

No, but I'll check after I've worked out what you just said.


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Here's some pics of the locations

Valvetronic servomotor

CCV Oil separator location, the hose that runs over the intake manifold sometimes collapses if the ccv is blocked, you can pull the hose off and check for oil and gunge inside it.

 

Here's some pics of the locations

Valvetronic servomotor

View attachment 214634

CCV Oil separator location, the hose that runs over the intake manifold sometimes collapses if the ccv is blocked, you can pull the hose off and check for oil and gunge inside it.

View attachment 214642

Brilliant, thanks for the pics.


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Another test you can do to rule out the solenoid valve is to swap them over, clear the codes, give it a run then recheck the codes and see if the code jumps to 'intake' cam control.

 

Did you change the tensioner?

 

Got the spanner and the part so hoping to do it today.

From what I've read it's not so much about the time it takes but more about not cross threading (which you pointed out) and getting to it. I'll let you know how it goes.

If you hear nothing more from me it's because I cocked it up and bought a Suzuki Swift. [emoji12]


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Good stuff.....are you still getting the 27BB code?

 

Unfortunately, yes. Plugged in the maxiscan tonight and had these errors.

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Try swapping the solenoid valves around, clear the codes, give it a run and rescan.

 

Could the blue smoke also be caused by a dodgy o2 sensor not working or mid reporting the fuel mix?


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Cam sensor errors can be thrown by crank sensor issues.

The crank sensor is not cheap and it seems to be one of those parts where you really do need to buy the genuine BMW one.

 

Ok, window regulator and motor fitted. Now back to the main event!

I am about to go out and change over the solenoids as you suggested mojojojo, in the meantime I have something else to ponder on. See attached screenshot.

 

Ok, window regulator and motor fitted. Now back to the main event!

I refurbed four motors the other day and left one of the sound barriers in the sun, the black sealant turned to treacle.....oh what fun I had cleaning that up! lol

Do you have the emission air pump in you engine?

 

That stuff is evil, it's like a final joke from the fitters at BMW, enjoy!

If you mean the thing that sits next to the washer water reservoir then no, there isn't anything there.

 

I've swapped the solenoids over and the same error returns within minutes.

 

I think your looking at a dodgy vanos unit then mate:frown

Regarding the missing lambda, they changed the emissions set up mid production on the N42, so wouldn't worry about the missing readings. There's no error code for lamdas is there?

 

Here is the full error read from today.

View attachment BMW Errors 230417.pdf

 

Ok I've changed my mind.....worry about them lambda reading:eek Looks like a dead lambda, could check connections and stuff first.
The 27EC EGS is transmission related I think and I thought that was for auto's??

 

Ok, that sounds like a plan. I was planning on jacking her up and taking a look at the sensor (he says confidently) just to make sure the wiring/connector is ok before going any further. I've read a few posts where sensor cabling has been disconnected or broken, so with a bit of luck I may be in the same boat.

If I can't see anything obvious I will hand it over to a mechanic but I have enjoyed fault finding and repairing the easier stuff like the tensioner and the window regulator and motor.

But sometimes you just have to leave it to the professionals!

I will let you know what I find.

 

Just thought I would check the possible 'dead lambda', is that the one top right reading 0.00 on my readout I supplied before?

 

Just realised the error report I sent points to the lambda after the cat. Had a look under the car tonight, disconnected the connector, cleaned it up and reconnected it, no joy.

Would I get a multi meter reading off a lambda sensor, resistance, etc.?

 

Do you have the 2 or 4 sensor system, my understanding was that the models without the secondary air emission pump only have two sensors... a control and a monitor.
If it's the 2 sensor system (like the N46) I think I was right in ignoring the bank 2 readings. Your fault codes are saying bank 1. Try getting the car up to temperature and check the live lambda data, give it some revs and see if any of the values change.

 

Got the car up to running temp and none of them changed a lot.

Although out of them all, I would say the one behind catalyst bank 1 changed the least.

I am guessing bank 2 is for the larger engines more than 4 cylinders.

I am also thinking if the sensors haven't been changed for some time then they might have past their sell by date maybe.

 

I am guessing bank 2 is for the larger engines more than 4 cylinders.

I am also thinking if the sensors haven't been changed for some time then they might have past their sell by date maybe.

The earlier N42's came with 4 oxygen sensors and a secondary emission air pump, they changed this in later versions to 2 oxygen sensors and done away with the air pump, whether this was a cost cutting exercise or they got the same results with just 2 oxygen sensors i don't know. Could you post a screen shot of your lambda readings and the digital 1 data.
Have you tried clearing the codes and see if they come back? What mileage is on the car?

 

So after about 20 minutes of running, the only sensor that didn't move was 'Lambdasensor behind catalyst bank 1' which stayed on 0.45 the whole time while Lambdasensor before cat bank 1 and lambda sensor Int. bank 1 moved gradually up or down depending whether or not I accelerated.

Having been under the car, it seems this sensor is one of the easier ones to change!

 

Are the lambda codes coming back?

 

Just come back from a run in the car. Attached are Digital 1 and the Lambda readings, the one Lambda sensor stays at 0.46, it doesn't appear to move at all. And the Lambda error came back again.

View attachment Analogue Value 3 260417.pdf View attachment Digital 1 260417.pdf