[nirajb_Uk]

Hi All,

i need some help with a couple of issues i'm having on my F06 640d.

Over the past couple of years I've had an issue where when i turn the car on and drive off, there is no power whatsoever, almost as if the turbos aren't engaging. however, the reason its been 2 years is that I've found a work around.

What i do is turn the car on for 10 seconds, then turn the car off completely for a few seconds then turn it back on and this seems to sort the problem out.

when i had it checked, the error code that as coming up was 2C3200 - Swirl flaps, plausibility: mechanically fault (lever break detection).

On realising this, when i do the first turn-on of the car and rev the engine, you can just about see the green actuator arm and it isn't moving, however, when i turn the car off then turn it back on as per the above, you can then see the actuator moving when revving.

I then thought it'd be a good idea to get to the inlet manifold and give it a clean due to the EGR valve and the carbon build up.

i wanted to ask if anyone has come across this problem before and why does it work when i turn the car on and off? could it be something to do with the battery not giving the actuator full power?

i managed to find a spare swirl flap actuator motor on ebay to replace it but thought i'd ask if anyone has had this problem before and could this be another problem which saves me from having to replace something that isn't actually broke.

 

[Js635d]

The manifold looks very gummed up. How many miles has the car done?
cheers
jim

 

[nirajb_Uk]

Hi Jim

So i gave the manifold a thorough clean ans removed 95% of the carbon. The problem was is still there but weirdly i can 'fix' it doing the method I've been using.

When this pic was taken the car had done 78k. I'm now on 98k.

Where u can see that green lever, this is what is causing the problem not allowing the swirl flaps to open.

 

[Clavurion]

Usually this problem is caused by wear on the flaps mechanism which allows the spring on the actuator to open the flaps past the original end point. (position sensing this implausible) One remedy is to make additional stopper inside the actuator so that the open position doesn't go over.

 

[nirajb_Uk]

Hmm how would tha explain it working when i turn the car off for 10 seconds then turn it back on? If the actuator stopped working completely I'd understand but I'm struggling to get why it works on the second engine start?

 

[Clavurion]

Hmm how would tha explain it working when i turn the car off for 10 seconds then turn it back on? If the actuator stopped working completely I'd understand but I'm struggling to get why it works on the second engine start?

For some reason when you turn engine off and restart the flap mechanism doesn't check the rest position. On initial start it does and because of implausible value turns off swirl flap control and also goes to limp mode reducing power.

 

[nirajb_Uk]

Ah right ok that makes sense. As mentioned I've managed to source a used swirl flap actuator. Do you reckon by replacing this would resolve the problem? Gives me an excuse to also clean out the intake manifold and egr valve!

 

[Clavurion]

Ah right ok that makes sense. As mentioned I've managed to source a used swirl flap actuator. Do you reckon by replacing this would resolve the problem? Gives me an excuse to also clean out the intake manifold and egr valve!

A new actuator may not solve it because the excess play is in the flaps mechanism on the manifold itself. You just need to take the the actuator apart and make a new stopper there. Like the code suggests the system thinks that the actuator lever is separated from the manifold because the open position goes past the assumed position.

 

[Js635d]

I have the exact same issue with my 640d. I have taken off the manifold and cleaned it and it looks great now. I have also modified the actuator and put a new stop on it as suggested by Clavurion. I managed to find a post which showed the point it should rest at and copied the location. There is clearly wear in the mechanism which I guess would allow the actuator arm to go past the correct resting point as identified above also. Pick the new gaskets up tomorrow and will fire it on Saturday and reset the air mass adaptions and fingers crossed it’s sorted.
cheers
Jim

 

[Connord93]

Hi All,

i need some help with a couple of issues i'm having on my F06 640d.

Over the past couple of years I've had an issue where when i turn the car on and drive off, there is no power whatsoever, almost as if the turbos aren't engaging. however, the reason its been 2 years is that I've found a work around.

What i do is turn the car on for 10 seconds, then turn the car off completely for a few seconds then turn it back on and this seems to sort the problem out.

when i had it checked, the error code that as coming up was 2C3200 - Swirl flaps, plausibility: mechanically fault (lever break detection).

On realising this, when i do the first turn-on of the car and rev the engine, you can just about see the green actuator arm and it isn't moving, however, when i turn the car off then turn it back on as per the above, you can then see the actuator moving when revving.

I then thought it'd be a good idea to get to the inlet manifold and give it a clean due to the EGR valve and the carbon build up.

i wanted to ask if anyone has come across this problem before and why does it work when i turn the car on and off? could it be something to do with the battery not giving the actuator full power?

i managed to find a spare swirl flap actuator motor on ebay to replace it but thought i'd ask if anyone has had this problem before and could this be another problem which saves me from having to replace something that isn't actually broke.
View attachment 271124 View attachment 271125

Did you ever get it sorted mate? Mines doing the same thing now

 

[Js635d]

As per my last post removing and cleaning the manifold and making the new stop point for the actuator has completely solved the issue.
Cheers
Jim

 

[Connord93]

Ahh thanks mate

 

[Js635d]

Is yours sorted? It’s not a difficult job to do and just involves taking the inlet manifold off and then cleaning it. Making the stop for the actuator is also pretty straight forward. A local BMW garage wanted to fit a new manifold at a cost is around a grand but this cost less than £100 which was mostly new gaskets. If you’re handy with a spanner it’s doable.
cheers
jim

 

[Connord93]

Yes mate I got a tuning company to do a swirl flap delete (turned the actuator off on the ecu and left the swirl flaps in open) works perfectly mate 155 quid left the swirl flaps

 

[Js635d]

Cracking job and sounds like it’s sorted and not broken the bank. Any difference in performance?
cheers
jim

 

[Luqman 82]

Hi all
I have the exact same problem with 640d twice I replaced the actuator and clean the manifold and still same 😏today I remove a actuator from the swirl and left the swirl flaps open still going to the limp mode but when I turn the car off and on again it’s fine

 

[Connord93]

Get a swirl flap delete mate, it deletes the actuator from the ecu. That’s what I did £160 and it works fine now

 

[Luqman 82]

Is that not affect the power under 2000 rpm?

 

[Connord93]

Is that not affect the power under 2000 rpm?

Hasn’t affected anything on mine mate

 

[Luqman 82]

Thanks mate