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Discussion Starter #1
Battery dead after 3 weeks since recharge so called halfords thy quoted £118 including fitting charge
for a 75amp battery with 680 crank charge.

Two questions for you guys while I am seeking more quotes. IS the 680 crank bit important?

Can I find out how much it would cost for a programming device to do it myself so I can quote myself as a DIY job?
 

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Rac cheapest is 82£ for a varta 72 amp 680 crank however I have don't think they are quoting for the fitting. It's 87£ on amazon so...

Is varta any good? It's German.
 

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Well I just rang up my local bmw dealer and bloke answered the phone didnt know but was sure for cars after 2008 it would, then he went ot speak to colleague and came back certain that for my e46 it shouldn't need registering.
 

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Yes, the 680 is fairly important. It's the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) and is a measure of how much amperage the battery can put out when it's cold before the battery drops below a certain voltage, something like 7 or 8 volts! If you don't have enough it might not have the power to turn over the vehicle long enough for it to start. Mostly it's more important for diesels, especially if they don't have fuel pre-heaters etc as diesel (still) thickens up when cold. I woudn't go any lower than a manufacturer stated CCA.
 

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I woudn't go any lower than a manufacturer stated CCA.
well I dont even know what that is for my car, there is no mention of this in the handbooks that come with the car, I jsut browsed it all for the info. anyway the battery in the car is 650 cca 70 amps and I can see 680cca with 72 for £87 so I should be alright.
 

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well I just found one even cheaper that should fit.

In regards to the previous battery I said wouldnt fit owing to ebay compatibility failure, i don't think it works, i went to the realoem website and it said the part number was 61217553952 then when i searched for that on ebay it came up with that battery but then it says its not compatible either.

 

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Anyway I bought one for £55 the manufactuer albeit unheard of has been running for a long tim and has a capacity to make 5million so must be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You could have gone 100ah battery and coded it into the car :)
well it turns out it didnt neet coding, anyway, if the battery i had was ok for the last 5 years i dont mind buying a better one for £55 for another 5 years. Curiously though in the above video the presenter says to leave one plug in the batter and the other one to go to the vent, however, the people i am buying from eBay said to get bother plugs out. Its an old battery but I cant help but wonder if this has anything to do with the cleaning of the radio antenna connection. seems like a weird coincidence some wiring gets a cleaned and all of a sudden the battery is going flat. Time will tell with the new one. Are any of you lawyers or have current understanding of employment law by any chance? Please DM me.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry to read all this. Hope you’re doing alright.
Thanks, I replaced the battery today although I didn't try starting the engine. OBD says its 12.5v. I don't understand why it said 11v yesterday but didn't start and when I put the battery charger on it said it was flat. I do hope the cleaning of the aerial didn't cause a parasitic drain like you had. I have left the car without the alarm on and will see how it is in a week.

Kinda weird the crap I found in the battery compartment, cardboard from a pampers nappy box to help cushion the battery, a few bolts, strange pieces of broken plastic and a pack of rizla.

In my previous car a Hyundai Lantra, I found while replacing the stereo system and the aerial, a handful of painted screws which were the type that taper into wood, in the centre console under the gear lever, under the spare wheel and in the sinkhole for the mechanical antenna that goes up and down. I can only imagine the driver pissed off his mechanic who deliberately wanted to make the car rattle, however tbh, I never heard any rattle...
 

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In a couple of days check the voltage with your multimeter. See if it has dropped from 12.4. A week is a bit of a time to leave it imho.

in my experience the alarm doesn’t use much power. if you suspect a drain you might end up doing all the checks I had to do. Alternator, parasitic drain test, solenoid checks. Hope You find it. They are a pain.
 

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E46s don't have any system to monitor battery condition (capacity), so theirs no registering/coding to be done.
 

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In a couple of days check the voltage with your multimeter. See if it has dropped from 12.4. A week is a bit of a time to leave it imho.

in my experience the alarm doesn’t use much power. if you suspect a drain you might end up doing all the checks I had to do. Alternator, parasitic drain test, solenoid checks. Hope You find it. They are a pain.
it says 12.4 today, i installed saturday, so thats 5 full days. alarm is turned off.
 

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Didn't know you could turn the alarm off, is that by manually locking it with the key?

Also, AFAIK, the alarm IS the primary drainer on a battery when the car's locked (assuming no faults with anything), along with related modules, e.g immobiliser/central locking system.
IIRC a system drain of ~200 mA is normal for BMWs and many modern (ish) cars these days (that's with the alarm on, but in 'sleep' mode).

iamthewalrus
Btw, if your battery went dead after 3 weeks of it been sat idle, then that's pretty much normal, sure an older battery won't have it's full capacity & will die earlier, but 3 weeks is borderline too long to be left switched off or never charged, especially with an older battery. That reminds me, I can't remember when I last charged the battery on my idle M3!........
 

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it says 12.4 today, i installed saturday, so thats 5 full days. alarm is turned off.
Cool. Now start it drive it around a bit. Lock it and try it again in a few days.

My drain only occurred after the FSR got hot. If I charged it up and left it, it would start after 4 days fine. But then after I drove it and parked, then next day battery dead.
 
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