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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
This will be a bit negative, so go to your safe space if you need.
Here we go:
Very recently I've bought myself a nice F11, to be a nice long range family hauler that does not attract a lot of thieves attention and I can leave it anywhere I like. Vehicle is fully loaded, 2014, and has a nice 10” screen. I thought I would do myself a favour and get my self carplay so rather than having a far smaller phone on a mount just to see waze. GREAT ! I've did some reading and got myself a:
Road Top NBT CarPlay (amazon link). It's very much the same that I've seen on "the internetz" to be the same as bimmertech MMI, just a different firmware (and some having actually the same firmware).


I've followed the installation procedure -> got everything connected -> reconnected the battery -> Everything is good so far -> I've proceeded to configuration of the unit -> everything seemed OK -> started the engine to get some heat into the cabin and also to make sure that battery will not go flat -> connected my iphone over wifi and bt (seemed weird, it should be both at the same time, but OK) -> phone asked whenever I want to enable carplay, which is great right ? -> went to setting on the unit, and in the settings there was an option "use vehicle build in BT for audio" -> I've selected it -> immediately after that, engine started to jitter, just like occasionally it would lose power and then it would regain power and try to rescue engine from stalling.

At this point I knew that something was going really really wrong. From my automotive experience my first instinct was to pull the chair back and get away from any airbag. Shortly after that the vehicle started coming up with more bizarre faults and the engine started misfiring so badly it sounded more like valves were hitting the pistons. I've switched off the vehicle, got out, disconnected the battery, ripped out this carplay module and put everything back together. At this point I was hoping that the unit was messing things up on the can and that everything will just go away. Unfortunately, after power up, the car was still screwed up. Some of errors that head unit was able to show were:
Engine fault - drive carefully
Power train failure - stop slowly
DSC system fault - drive carefully
Tyre Monitoring failure

So far great right ?
:)
Engine is now working very badly, it's simply not running on one cylinder, rather than having a time from time jitter. I've never ended up in such a bad state so the most that I even needed was a vgate to erase typical OBD errors and and code few options like disabling start stop, or changing some head unit parameters on my 4 series. Good friend of my, luckily came to the rescue with enet cable and ista. After the initial scan, there were 33 errors in total, and most of the units on the vehicle were in some error state. We've cleared errors few time but there is 9 errors that persistently keep coming back, like:
  • injector, cylinder 6, activation: Low side open circuit
  • DCS: Undervoltage in vehicle
  • oxygen sensor after catalytic converter, heating, activation, open circuit

There are other errors, which arguably could already be present, like glow plug, cylinder 6, activation: Open circuit. However before reset there were "quite few" undervolt errors.

People that sell this piece of shit, of-course come up with answers like "it's can't be true, we sell so many of those". ZERO effort to help with fault finding. If it was not an amazon purchase probably I would not be able to return it.

So: Install those things at your own risk.

To the manufacturer: **** you and the ground you walk on.

I ended up right now with an expensive parking space reservation cone. If anybody in UK, Essex area has any knowhow on those things / capable of repairs - hit me up. Please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, - this is something that I usually check as a precaution. Battery holds nominal voltage after all night of 12.4V (which is pretty good in my mind). Charging and discharging states at are OK. Cranking battery state is actually pretty good - 10.5V. So for time being battery is not the suspect, it will get replaced in the long run thou since it's a start&stop & brake regen system.

Anyway, after longer analysis we've concluded that what is completely screwed is a "junction box", while fuses are OK, certain outputs are just 0V.

I hope people will take that as a warning to what they put in their car. I'm no stranger to putting 3rd party modules (did is on all of my beamers ?), results can be "not fun".
 
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