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Hello All,:thumbsup

After getting so much good 8 series advice from this forum I thought I should offer a little back for what it is worth. I have limited experience fixing car problems but I've never been afraid to try and learn whenever I can. After buying my 8 back in 2014 I have done various repairs, mostly referring to Timms GODSEND of a website but with plenty of help from searching this forum. This last fix I needed was after the ABS and ASC lights came on and would just not go away. I had worked through Timms guide to fixing it by using INPA to get the pump freed up but after getting my laptop plugged in and plenty of bashing with a hammer I found that my pump was just not going to play ball. After more reading I found the replacement unit, then the cheaper alternative ABS unit and part number, then some more info (that did seem daunting to an amateur) about how it can be a pig to bleed the ABS unit after replacing it. However, only in a few isolated posts did I see it mentioned that you can change the offending ABS pump motor without disturbing the brake lines and having to bleed the system. (This method was highly preferable to me as I have some extremely tight bleed nipples on my callipers which I would like to sort at my leisure rather than snap them off whilst I have a brake system full of air.) After finishing the job it has worked a treat with the ABS motor buzzing happily whenever I poke it into life on INPA. The biggest bonus for me is I never had to tackle removing the whole unit and bleeding it all out as this is unchartered territory for me.
In the end I found that collecting the info (how? what parts and what software?) probably took longer than the job itself so I though I'd post all that info here in one place with a couple of pictures about what to expect (if I can load them on?) All the info is on the Meeknet and forum in some form or another but as a newbie, I could only find it in bits spread across several threads.
Anyway here's what I did. I hope it helps people with the same problem.

1. Refer to the bible
Timm's BMW E31 Solving ABS Pump Problems
2. Bought this INPA software with 20 pin cable adaptor to link my laptop and 840 to run the pump/diagnose the issue. It has the 1-click installation as recommended by Timm. Apparently it can be a real chore to install it all manually and I didn't like the sound of that one bit.
BMW Diagnostic USB Cable Code Reader Interface + Full Adapter Set INPA DIS SSS | eBay
3. After completing the installation instructions included with the cable and then referring back to the bible to try and figure out what the hell I was doing, I got the same error codes (writing was annoyingly in German) matching the screenshots on Timms guide. However, after activating the pump there was a small click but no whirring noise.
4. I read this post where Gibbo300 freed up the stuck motor with a can of GT85 through one of the torx screw holes in the pump. I thought I'd probably better try this next as it seems to have worked for him.
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f88/840-1995-abs-problem-t128231/
5. Took off the nearside wheel and peeled back the inside wheel arch trim. There's the offending motor!
6. I gave the motor some gentle taps whilst activating the pump but no joy. I got slightly more violent but still no joy.
7. I tried to get the 2x star torx bolts out to try the GT85 fix but they bored out within seconds as they were pretty well rusted. These are also thread locked in btw so be as careful as you can be when getting them out. I wasn't so I was off to screwfix and got these little gems. Screw extractors!
Screw Extractor 5 Piece Set | Specialist Drill Bits & Accessories | Screwfix.com
8. After getting them out and trying the GT85 fix my motor still didn't turn. It smoked like fury when I tried to run it with all that GT85 in there so thought Id best get a complete replacement ABS unit.
9. Bought a new ABS unit on ebay for £30. A steal! Just search for 0265217000. It seems the original ones fitted in the 8 series have a different part number on them and people charge the earth for them. This one is exactly the same unit but was used in other models aswell. Something like that anyway. I think.
BMW 5 / 7 SERIES E39 E38 ABS ESP Pump and ECU module Bosch 0265217000 | eBay
10. Now you can swap the motors. After removing the torx bolts and the earth cable, the only thing left to do is expose the red power cable (under the black plastic sleeve on the top side of the motor) and cut it in the middle. I tried for ages trying to unplug it where the cable goes into the metal ABS housing but it turns out this is not a plug (even though it looks like one to me) its a non removable joint. Once its cut the motor can be popped out with a little tug. My old motor was absolutely chocka with rust and there was no way it was ever going to work again.
11. Get the motor off the new ABS unit the same way and offer it up. The shaft end of the motor needs to slot in between the little pump pistons on its way into the housing before it will slot home so you may need to turn the shaft to the correct orientation and jiggle it in a bit to get it in.
12. I then trimmed the cables ready to splice them using a crimp connecter. I had to pull the motor in and out a few times to get the cables to the right lengths for the connector but got there in the end. Once the motor was in with torx bolts tightened, I crimped the power cable. I had to use bullnose pliers as it was too tight for a crimper.

Now it is done the new motor works a treat. The fault lights disappeared and I can finally get myself an MOT (without cheating).
I hope this helps anyone who is going down the same path with a packed in ABS pump but is scared of bleeding systems. I know it would have made the job easier for me

Thanks to Timm, Purpleblob, talyinka, Gibbo300 and loads of others for making your knowledge public, understandable and usable for us keen laymen's. You save me a fortune on fixing my car and I am always keen to learn how things work.

P.S. I'll try and get some pics of it if this helps. Can't seem to load them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
IMG_0901.jpg
Wheel trim off

ABS torx removal.jpg
Torx bolts, Earth cable and red power cable sleeve

IMG_0904.jpg
ABS unit with motor removed showing housing

IMG_0905.jpg
Close up of pump pistons where motor shaft slots back in between

IMG_0903.jpg
New motor in and cable connected

IMG_0907.jpg
Inside the old motor after some rust fell out!
 

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Nicely done PZ, thanks for posting the solution. I've got my old pump as spare because it gave up, may as well have a fiddle to see if it can be salvaged.

Mick
 

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Nice one PZ, I'll be doing this after my holiday. This write up and pictures has spured me on. :thumbsup

Roy
 

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PZ, done this today and the dreaded duo of warning lights are no more. Many thanks mate, superb write up and pics. £28 including postage for the pump, result:thumbsup

Roy.
 

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I am going to have a go at this. How long did it take? Also what did you do to join the power lead?

edit 16/11/17. All changed and working. just need to solder the power supply lead at the weekend
 
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