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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a 525 TDS SE with what I believe is a 3G MK1 Alarm system which didn't come with an alarm key fob.
From what I can find out the fob needs to be soldered to match the alarm box (mine is a 82 11 9 401 487), the guide I have found says that you need a working fob to copy.
I would like to know if it would be possible to copy a system that works from somebody by copying the soldering pattern on both the alarm box and a key fob or if anybody has any info to what each pin on the box or fob does so that I could work out where to solder the joints.
I only really want to be able to use the remote centrol locking and not that bothered about the alarm.
As a last resort if anybody has a wiring diagram I do have a Toad alarm which I could wire in.


3 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Hi, all sorted now, I found an excellent guide on here to fix my problem and have pasted it in below.
This looks a bit complicated at first but once you open up the key fob and box in front of you it all becomes clear.
All you need to do is match up some blobs of solder so the alarm box has the same joints soldered as the fob, it tool me about 15 minutes to do once I got my head round it.
It works perfectly and if the button on the dash is pushed in the auto closure for the windows and sunroof also works as well.:)

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Soldering/Programming Fob without alarm – 09-09-2010,21:48
Thanks for the helpful info here! I just got my alarm (single button) working by soldering the fob, without having another fob to refer to. You can work out the code from the module on the receiver. Here's a quick guide:
- There's a module that lifts off the alarm unit in the glovebox, take that out and open it up. There's a board inside.
- On that board you should see a set of pads similar to the ones in the key fob. There are 18 pads total on both (there are 4 more on the remote, above and left in the photo). By pad I mean the pair of half circle shapes, some of which will be bridged with solder.
- Pads on the receiver are in 4 rows, the first two as I look at it have 5 pads, then 4 pads on the next two. I numbered them as follows:
VSS 1 2 3 4 5
A1 A2 A3 A4 A5
VDD 6 7 8 9 10
VDD 11 12 13 14
A6 A7 A8 A9
VSS 15 16 17 18

A1 through A9 are pins on the control chips, you can ignore that, the important part is the numbers, which you should see correspond to the position of pads on the board

(For the electronically minded pads set tri-state address lines to the decoder chip, hence the A1-A9. All the Vss/Vdd lines are tied together)

- Pads on the remote are as follows (Upside down compared to the earlier photo):
VSS 1 2 3 4 5 15 16
A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7
VDD 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
VDD 14 13
A9 A8
VSS 18 17

I've labelled it so that pad numbers correspond between the remote and receiver. All you need to do is match the remote codes to the receiver codes. I altered the remote because I didn't want to risk breaking the alarm module.

Plug the module back onto your alarm and the remote should be working. If not check you haven't got any stray solder bridges on the remote. Hope this works for someone!
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