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330d 2002/52 (2.9L 184bhp) Auto Not Starting/Blown Fuse in ECU Box

7K views 9 replies 3 participants last post by  ash330d 
#1 ·
Hi

I have an issue with a non-starting 330d (that cut out at 70ish MPH on a dual carriageway. Had it recovered to a mates garage and have done a Diag with his Snap-On Tool which gave 9 codes!

I have managed to find that 1 of the 5 fuses in a "pack" in the ECU box under the bonnet is blowing as soon as the ignition is turned on and the codes are being reset but instantly reappear due to the fuse (I assume!).

The problem is, I cannot find any information on what these 5 fuses do! The fuse is either 2 or 4 depending on which end you look at it from.

I have found quite a lot about petrol versions that have 30A 30A 20A 30A 30A but mine has 5x 30A fuses and no information.

I have also found that the fuel pump under the rear seat is not coming on and neither is the one under the passenger seat (this is only about 6 weeks old!). I have managed to test the pump under the rear seat with a 12V supply and it works but have not yet tested the one under the passenger seat yet.

I have checked all the fuses in the glove compartment and all was fine.

I have checked the horn relay and proceeded to replace the fuel pump relay with that and the horn still worked so have managed to rule that out.

Diag Codes are:

P0100 - Air Mass Sensor
P1260 - Delivery Fuel Pressure Monitoring
P3515 - A/C Power Fault
P1A22 - Swirl Values
P1A04 - Coolant Heating
P1E30 - Boost Control Or Boost Control Valve
P3505 - Glow System
P0480 - Cooling Fan Circuit
P0400 - EGR Control or EGR Actuator

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have now spent two days on this and got not very far!

Thanks

Ash
 
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#4 ·
In the E-box (where the ECU and these fuses are) find a bundle of red/white wires connected together. Remove the protection on it and first check they are connected to the fuse base that keeps blowing. Remove the wires and check which wire is shorted to ground. Isolate that wire and connect all others back together. If the fuse doesn't blow check with diagnostics what component is missing/causing fault code.
 
#7 ·
Clavurion is far better at electrics than I am but you might find this thread of interest http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f9/how-use-wiring-diagrams-t332561/

I've had a very quick look and from the wiring diagram it looks like there should be four fuses so I'm sure I'm looking at the wrong drawing.

As I suspect you have DDE 4 I looked under --- Component and signal information > A_Control units, modules > A8680 Fuse carrier, engine electronics (automatic transmission).

If you have DDE 5 then that shows five fuses --- Component and signal information > A_Control units, modules > A8682 Fuse carrier, engine electronics DDE5.
 
#8 ·
Thanks to both of you. Found the problem reasonably quick (melted wire on the EGR/Manifold for Turbo Actuator).

I have a further problem now....not sure whether it's an injector leak past? Or a dicky pump.

Codes are P1260 and P09F6. It's had the fuel filter changed and have also changed the passenger side pump as read they were issues that could cause problems with pressure / these fault codes but still struggling to start....does start after 3-15 seconds of cranking and drives and pulls like a train so a bit confusing as to what the issue is.

Going to see if I can get a local garage to do the injector test but if that works out ok I am to a loss as to what else it could be?

Tank pump is working (making noise) so really don't know what else could be the cause....suggestions welcome!

Thanks again

Ash
 
#10 ·
Hi All

Thanks very much for your help and guidance.

Found the problem to be injector 4. Did a flow test across all of them just with the ignition/pumps on.....didn't have to crank....and the bottle on 4 half filled in about 5 seconds.

Injector three had a smidgen in the bottom and the other 4 were empty (a little in the pipes).

I have only replaced injector 4 at present (money's tight) but for how easy and quick the flow test is, I would recommend that to anyone who has a friendly mechanic and kit.....or just buy off eBay for £25 as I have done if your reasonably confident in your abilities!

Garage I first called wanted to send to diesel specialist and it was one of the easiest jobs I've done on a car (intake manifold has to come off but the injectors virtually fell out!) 3hrs start to finish.

Happy man after a stressful week of trying to get the dam thing going.
 
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