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Hi new member here, trying to cure codes P0171,P0174,P1083 and P1085 checked ohm readings on all o2 sensors heater wires good readings.
checked voltage readings from ecu on the post cat wiring correct one the pre cat wiring I am getting battery voltage down the white wires?????
 

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Has anyone come across this fault and possibly know where to start looking to cure it
 

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By these fault codes you have an air leak, start by checking inlet pipe work etc


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Thanks lozevans
I checked all pipe work and found aCCV pipe split now recurved new kit complete and fitted, starts perfect but for the first 5 mins will not tick over, will rev no problem, after five mins ticks over perfect. Yet to do diagnostic again. Any one with any ideas???
Would be much appreciated
 

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Thanks lozevans
I checked all pipe work and found aCCV pipe split now recurved new kit complete and fitted, starts perfect but for the first 5 mins will not tick over, will rev no problem, after five mins ticks over perfect. Yet to do diagnostic again. Any one with any ideas???
Would be much appreciated
I don't know how you checked the pipe work but the only decent way of checking for air leaks is by doing a smoke test. The CCV split drain pipe is a classic vacuum leak but there are others. You should have had a lot of oil escaping down there too. So that is an obvious one. But the DISA O ring is not obvious.. You are not going to see that by just looking at it. When you replaced the CCV you will have removed the intake boots. The lower boot is notorious for splitting between the throttle body and the idle control valve. The valve cover gasket too. Can leak but not obvious to see. So do a smoke test.
 

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Hi romeopapa the way I checked all the pipe work is by replacing everything with new. The repair started with head gasket gone, then the head was cracked here in Fuerteventura your looking at 2000 euros for a second hand head so I got a complete engine shipped from the Uk installed it but using the original sump and cam Cover so as well changed the gaskets also replaced all vacuum pipes and caps.90% better just the first few minutes will not tick over, hunts and stalls then fine
 

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Hi update on my 330ci now have zero fault codes but still continues to cut out until more or less the temp gauge needle starts to come out of the first colour then is perfect.
Thinking along the lines of the idle control valve.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, the old engine ran perfectly before overheating, also forgot to mention in last post, new water pump and thermostat, the car has sat for about 2 yrs.
 

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Hi romeopapa the way I checked all the pipe work is by replacing everything with new. The repair started with head gasket gone, then the head was cracked here in Fuerteventura your looking at 2000 euros for a second hand head so I got a complete engine shipped from the Uk installed it but using the original sump and cam Cover so as well changed the gaskets also replaced all vacuum pipes and caps.90% better just the first few minutes will not tick over, hunts and stalls then fine
I don't know what you mean by "pipe work" but there are potential air leaks that might still exist even after an engine swap.

So here is a list of all possible air leak sources. This is just off the top of my head. May be other that escape me.

You decide whether you have dealt with them or not

DISA valve O ring
Intake boots upper and lower.
Upper vacuum tube from F connector to fuel filter
Lower vacuum tube from F connector to fuel filter
Valve cover gasket
Filler cap O ring
Purge valve connector tube
Purge valve.
Oil filler cap
CCV internal diaphragm puncture
CCV to valve cover tube
CCV to intake manifold tube
CCV to oil dipstick tube
Oil dipstick to sump O ring
Oil dipstick O ring
Oil pan gasket
Inlet manifold gasket
Injector to manifold O rings
Throttle body gasket
ICV to manifold grommet
Manifold to secondary air pump hose (if you have one)

It is a long list and excuse me if I don't believe you have replaced all of these.

Most of them you cannot tell if the are leaking by just looking at them.

That's why I recommend a smoke test. But sometimes even a smoke test won't reveal the problem.
A hole in the CCV diaphragm, for example, is something that will only be revealed by poor performance
or white smoke from the exhaust. See the attached pic.
 

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Hi romeopapa thanks for replying, every thing on your list is new, looks like I need to start replacing items like the idle solinoid valve and hope I find the problem early and don't end up with a lot of bought items that didn't need changing. Any more ideas appreciated greatly.
 

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Has anyone come across this fault and possibly know where to start looking to cure it
This may not help at all but worth a try, I had about 5 codes up on a scanner, broadly based on SENSOR faults like u2, post cat temp sensor etc.... changed the air filter....problems all went .....just found it surprising how something simple created a bloody family tree of issues....who knows, something on similar lines may resolve your problems
 

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This may not help at all but worth a try, I had about 5 codes up on a scanner, broadly based on SENSOR faults like u2, post cat temp sensor etc.... changed the air filter....problems all went .....just found it surprising how something simple created a bloody family tree of issues....who knows, something on similar lines may resolve your problems
Have you ever been unable to breathe? Plays havoc with your lap time. It's the same with engines.
 

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Have you ever been unable to breathe? Plays havoc with your lap time. It's the same with engines.
Hi guys update on my 330ci it is now perfect
The problem was the icv it had stuck in one position WD40 3in1 oil and a hammer hey presto all is well
A big thank you to everybody who has tried to help
 
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