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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

New to the site and have introduced myself, hoping some of you guys can help me with a couple of issues with my very first, albeit old, E46 320d M Sport. It was cheap, and it has done a fair few miles, so will have some teething issues, however the mechanic I use has given it the once over and says it looks solid.

I did try and search the forums for my specific issue, but I could not find anything relevant, so I do apologise if this has been covered before.

I do like to tinker on cars myself, and there is an issue with my E46 in that in low gears and under light acceleration I experience a jerking / kangaroo hopping type motion. It seems to do it more as the engine is warming up, once at normal operating temp everything seems fine. I have a Diagnostic Tool and the following codes were thrown up:

4212 & 4222 DDE: Glow Plug Cylinder 1 & 2 activation not present.

There were a couple of other faults but nothing related to engine. I clear them, go for a drive which is fine other than the jerking in low gears. Could these faults be what is causing this issue? If so, how would I go about rectifying it? Are there any other possibilities?

I would be ever so grateful for any help and advice you can give, I do like to explore the possibility of sorting issues myself before going to my mechanic mate. Look forward to hearing from you guys and thanks in advance!
 

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The fault code be due to bad glow plugs or glow plug controller. It's an inlet manifold off job to get to the glow plugs. It could be the cause as the glow plugs remain on until the engine hits a certain temperature which could add up to why when the engine is at temp the issue disappears.

Hopefully the glow plugs aren't seized in, do observe torque settings when installing and removing. If you have a multimeter you can test them by reading there resistance values in situ.

If you go for it, clean your inlet manifold at the same time and egr valve. If the swirl flaps haven't been removed do then at the same time and as a priority. If they fail lots of damage can follow.

It's also an ideal time to clean electrical connections, the map sensor and replace vacuum pipes, I'd recommend silicone replacements.

If it's the controller, I changed mine from underneath the car, it was a bit of a fiddly job and I had the car on a hoist.
 

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Not sure the plugs are your problem.
But if you are going to change them change the controller as well.
 

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It may turn out that the glow plugs aren't the cause of the problem, but as there is a known problem with them it would make sense to sort it.

I would argue that just because you change your glow plugs (if it's those as opposed to the controller) you don't have to change the controller. Why fix something that isn't broken? Unless it's really easy to get at it whilst the manifold is off, that I'm not sure of and it's cheap. Iirc it cost me around £60 for a new Beru one in 2015.

Try cleaning the MAF sensor also, relatively easy to do and at very little cost.

Make sure filters are in good order also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It may turn out that the glow plugs aren't the cause of the problem, but as there is a known problem with them it would make sense to sort it.

I would argue that just because you change your glow plugs (if it's those as opposed to the controller) you don't have to change the controller. Why fix something that isn't broken? Unless it's really easy to get at it whilst the manifold is off, that I'm not sure of and it's cheap. Iirc it cost me around £60 for a new Beru one in 2015.

Try cleaning the MAF sensor also, relatively easy to do and at very little cost.

Make sure filters are in good order also.
Many thanks for the suggestions Nige!

I am in the process of doing routine maintainence items as we speak, air and oil filter done, oil change too, next fuel and pollen filter. I have cleaned and tested the EGR with a vacuum pump, it was quite cruddy, but I've seen worse, valve operated fine under pressure.

You mentioned removing swirl flaps as a priority if they haven't already, do these need to be blanked or is leaving them open ok?

My 320d has service history up to 100k, after that nothing, so I have no idea when glow plugs were last changed, I think it's definitely a route I want to take. Is there a guide on here for that procedure? Also, any recommendations of suitable glow plugs would be very welcome.

The jerking issue is definitely more promenant when the engine is building to normal operating temp, once there it drives ok, but I can't help but feel it's still not quite running right even then, I'm sure I can feel moments of jerking and maybe hesitation.

Gonna clean the MAF sensor now, eliminate one possible cause. Many thanks again for the pointers, I'll let you know how I get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK Guys, quick update for you.

As MAF sensor was mentioned I didn't bother cleaning it, I just disconnected it and went for a drive, and noticed the drive seemed smoother in general, pulling away was smoother, couldn't tell if the faint jerking I felt was the car or the road surface itself, definitely better overall than with MAF connected. Pretty sure there was a significant reduction in smoke under hard acceleration, with MAF connected I'd leave plumes of dark smoke behind me, with MAF disconnected very little smoke.

I'll give it a clean hopefully today and see if improves, but combine a dodgy MAF with some aging glow plugs and a possible dodgy controller then it's easy to see why she isn't quite running well.

I'll update again when I have more news.
 

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I fitted the metal ones not the plastic.
Apart from that they are all the same i would think.
 

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Will do.

Any pointers on what blanking kit I need or where to get it would be appreciated! (y)
Mine were replaced by previous owner and were made by PMW, the aluminium ones. There are different sizes so make sure you get the correct ones. It is possible with the covers of and with a torch and mirror or just by having a good close look, you may be able to see if they have been replaced without removing the manifold. If the vacuum box no longer exists and has been removed or you can see some vacuum lines plugged then it's probably been done as they are part of the vacuum system which controls the swirl flaps.

However if you have a fault with the glow plugs themselves the manifold has to come off regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Guys

Quick update for you. Have changed glow plugs, however this hasn't made any difference to the jerking issue. I do have a replacement glow plug control module / unit which I will fit in the next couple of days. I'll let you know what happens.

I did buy a swirl flap delete kit, however upon pulling off the manifold I noticed the blanking plates you see in the photo.

Wheel Train Motor vehicle Vehicle Rolling stock


I'm guessing this means a previous owner did delete the swirl flaps would you say?
 

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Correct, that's them already blanked off. With the new glow plugs in, clear the codes and run the car for a bit then read them again. If they don't come back, chances are your controller is ok. You can activate the controller through inpa also which will produce the codes if it is faulty.

Did you clean your MAF to see if this addressed the problem?

If you have time, check the inside of your manifold and clean all the crap out if it's bad. This can be a very messy job though. This is a good chance for you to clean the MAP sensor also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Correct, that's them already blanked off. With the new glow plugs in, clear the codes and run the car for a bit then read them again. If they don't come back, chances are your controller is ok. You can activate the controller through inpa also which will produce the codes if it is faulty.

Did you clean your MAF to see if this addressed the problem?

If you have time, check the inside of your manifold and clean all the crap out if it's bad. This can be a very messy job though. This is a good chance for you to clean the MAP sensor also.
Update for you all.

So, my 320d has service history up to 100k, after that nothing, so my plan was always to do a thorough service first, glow plugs, oil, all filters changed, etc, plus I have cleaned the EGR. On top of that I cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical contact cleaner, however after doing this the car would not start at all, did I finish off the MAF, quite possibly. Luckily there's a scrapyard 5 miles away and managed to get a replacement MAF, put it in and car was fine again. Took her for a run after resetting the glow plug faults, scanned again and the faults reappeared. Contacted the scrappy again to see if they had any glow plug control modules, luckily they had so picked it up, installed it, same process of resetting codes, etc, rescanned and now the faults no longer show up. Result there!

However this hasn't totally sorted the lumpy, jerking action the car is doing whilst warming up, although it's not as bad, I've also noticed what looks like grey smoke from the exhaust when I floor the accelerator, but if I slowly and gradually apply the accelerator much less smoke. I know old diesels have a tendency to smoke under acceleration, the amount mine produces just seems to be a bit too much. On top of that my average MPG is saying 60, which I find hard to believe considering I am watching the fuel needle go down as I drive, I don't drive the car hard, but I'm no Sunday morning driver either (no offence to sunday morning drivers!), I just seem to be using a lot of diesel. Any other ideas what may be causing these issues? I forgot to clean the MAP sensor and inside the manifold, would these be worth going back to and doing?
 

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Are you able to observe the injector selective mass adjustment values when the car is running? This can give an indication of what state the injectors are in, bad injectors can cause all sorts of issues, including atomised unburnt diesel being thrown out which can give a white smoke type of appearance.

However, if the engine isn't getting up to temperature it can also cause poor mpg. The thermostats on these are known to go bad, both the main and egr. If the engine temperature doesn't get to about 88 plus you may have a fault with one of them.

You can access hidden menus on the dash to display coolant temps whilst running the car. It does take an age to get the 2.0D up to temp but they do get there eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Are you able to observe the injector selective mass adjustment values when the car is running? This can give an indication of what state the injectors are in, bad injectors can cause all sorts of issues, including atomised unburnt diesel being thrown out which can give a white smoke type of appearance.

However, if the engine isn't getting up to temperature it can also cause poor mpg. The thermostats on these are known to go bad, both the main and egr. If the engine temperature doesn't get to about 88 plus you may have a fault with one of them.

You can access hidden menus on the dash to display coolant temps whilst running the car. It does take an age to get the 2.0D up to temp but they do get there eventually.
Next update

Unfortunately my code / diagnostic reader is unable to get live data of injector selective mass adjustment values, is there any way I can view these readings? INPA perhaps?

I did use the hidden menus to check coolant temp on a long run and the highest the temp got up to was 86'C, but would generally hold around the low 80'C mark, would you say this was ok or indicating a problem with the thermostat(s)?
 

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Yes, INPA will let you see the live data. It also sounds like you have an thermostat issue, possibly the one on the egr cooler but I'd have to check. That is the easiest to change out of the two as you don't need to change all of the coolant, remove water pump etc.

The 2.0 litres do take an age to get to temp but you should see it get into the nineties then cool again as the stats open.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, INPA will let you see the live data. It also sounds like you have an thermostat issue, possibly the one on the egr cooler but I'd have to check. That is the easiest to change out of the two as you don't need to change all of the coolant, remove water pump etc.

The 2.0 litres do take an age to get to temp but you should see it get into the nineties then cool again as the stats open.
Many thanks for the info, I will certainly look into thermostats and INPA.

However, something else has come to light. As I said before, my code reader doesn't have many live data options available, but I did manage to get it on my mechanic mate's reader to try, and the following fault code showed up:

4191 - Turbo Control Flap Activation

Any ideas why the car would be throwing this code? Could it have anything to do with the issues I have, hesitant, jerky, lumpy running during warm up, throwing out noticeable amount of smoke, all under acceleration (when car is cold, and at normal operating temp, it runs fine)?

Any thoughts would be very welcome.
 
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