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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, there.

im new to the forum and unfortunate im coming in with a problem but l do my best to give back as i can.

i have read throgh several posts and researched a lot before posting.

il try simplify while giving as much info as pos.

i have an 04 316 e46 compact that has served me extremely well gets service every 5 k and is currently on 152 k so ive had my moneys worth but im not ready to give up on him yet!

about two weeks ago my drive belt come off on the motorway and i continued to drive for 5 miles to get the car to a safe place. managed to get the belt back on road side but where the water pump wasn't turning im guessing pressure built up and blew the lower left radiator hose to the waterpump impeller.

so i got the vehicle recovered ordered new tensioners, pulleys, belt and a hose week later fitted it all and seemed fine at first untill i noticed the ar wouldnt idle correctly and kept on stalling with no revs. at first i assumed it was a maf sensor ut then plugged it in to a very good scanner at work and fault code 27/bb camshaft control exhaust was displaying and would re appear after i clear it.

so i did alot of research and possible faults i read up could be: vanos soleniod seals, camshaft sensor cam shaft sensor o rings or vanos it self.

now i have replaced the camshaft sensor made no difference,then i changed the vanos solenoid o rings and cleaned them up, the o rings in the casing were hard and brittle so i was certain i had sussed it. after the o rings were changed the was a noticeable difference in power and would idle much better once warmed up.

however it is still stalling abit and on my simple obd reader it is displaying p0015 b camshaft position timing over- retarded bank 1.

any one got any ideas could it be the timing tensioner or the vanos itself?
if so how hard are these jobs?
is this beacuse my engine may of over heated when the belt come off?

the thoght of an engine conversion has always interested me is now the time ? bin the old one.

i struggle with writing spelling and grammar so apologies if it is a load of ld waffle.


thanks in advance
 

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First was the car running fine with no issues before the belt came off. Rough running on these engines can be caused by many things, check the simple things first before spending a fortune on unnecessary parts.
Check crankcase breather system especially the hose that runs on top of the engine between the inlet manifold (this ones known to collapse ) check all hoses for air leaks splits etc, make sure the oil filler cap is on tight. Do you have the updated timing chain tension-er ? if none of that works you need to check the timing system as the exhaust cam control unit is known to fail ( a new one cured my 27BB rough running issues )
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi hoe do i know if the timing tensioner is the updated version?
Yes it ran fine before the belt come off.
And how do i check the timing/ exhaust cam control unit what is it ?
Cheers
 

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I'd hate to say it, but the error code may be a red herring - are you getting any other symptoms? Is your coolant level steady? Is there excessive steam from the exhaust?

5 miles with no water pump I think you'd be lucky do have not damaged the head, but as just4u has said, start simple.

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi , thanks for the tips will check out all those tommorow . Its very strange as the power is very internment someone times it will have barely anything other times its almost fine at high rpm.

Could the tensioner cause these faults to flash if so would it mean its jumped a tooth beacuse of a worn out /not correct tensioner?

And coolant level is steady i think althogh ive noticed it drinking oil a little ive always had a little leak on sump but its certainly used it quick i topped it up about a liter and t light come on after a 300 miles trip
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi mate quick update with good news! Well goodish,

I changed the tensioner for the new on from bmw £48 inc vat i was so unsure weather to chuck more money at it but i thoght **** it , once changed i still had rough idle so i was certain it hadnt worked and i must of jumped a tooth on timing, then after driving the power delivery was amazingly better .

It seemed that on first start up still rough idle and codes would flag up on reader still then once warm it was fine.

Today i took manifold cover off and found the pipe completly flattened and soft and sqidgy so il order that tommorow as ive a good feeling thats the final piece of the puzzle.

Would this be why my car is using oil aswell? I know i have a sump leak aswell but its gone up
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi update again if anyones out there ...
New vaccum pipe on under intake cover car drive fines but still idle rough and stalls here and there when no revs.
Fault codes gone well for now.
Im guessing its just an air leak somewhere .
I have been loseing oil but cant seem to place it could it be my oil filler cap ? It will die instantly when removed and as far as im aware its the original.

Cant seem to see any other possible places it could leak .
Maf sensonr seems fine when tested using live data on a graph .

Any other suggestions ?
 

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Hi update again if anyones out there ...
New vaccum pipe on under intake cover car drive fines but still idle rough and stalls here and there when no revs.
Fault codes gone well for now.
Im guessing its just an air leak somewhere .
I have been loseing oil but cant seem to place it could it be my oil filler cap ? It will die instantly when removed and as far as im aware its the original.

Cant seem to see any other possible places it could leak .
Maf sensonr seems fine when tested using live data on a graph .

Any other suggestions ?
I'd suggest the CCV valve and the other hoses. My car needs them donig desperately as it runs like a bag of poo at low RPM and randomly cuts out at idle - similarly, the oil cap being removed with the engine running cases the engine to stall.

They'll all pretty crap and a failure of any will produce precisely the symptoms you're describing.
 

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Try the plastic bag test, engine off remove oil filler cap, fix a plastic bag over the filler, secure with couple of strong elastic bands. You should see a slight vacuum with the engine running.
 
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