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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wonder if anyone can help on an issue I am experiencing with my 123d M Sport. I have had the car since new and have now done around 13000 miles in the vehicle and had a service on the car (as well as a few other changes and fixes)

The main issue is that between 1500 RPM and 2500RPM in certain conditions I get flat spots when accelerating. It was diagnosed by a dealer locally to me and they adjusted the EGR valve to be +40. However this did not cure the problem and I was still experiencing the flat spots.

I subsequently have taken advice from Consumer Direct on this issue and was told to go back to the dealer I originally purchased the vehicle from as my contract of supply is with them.

After some correspondence exchanged they took the car back for three weeks and did nothing to it.

Is anyone having the same problem with their car? Have they managed to cure it? Any advice on what to do next?
 

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you will inevitably get flat spots under 2000 revs due to turbo dropping off boost and load of engine in higher gears being at it's greatest.

Mine used to jolt badly between 1800 and 2200 revs until +40mg air was added to EGR.

If i cruise at about 70mph it's only pulling about 1800 revs. Every now and then at hills on A19 too and from work I can feel the egr close and for split second a delay in power but only if adding small throttle inputs.

it's very odd.

I think it's just one of those things. If I give a decent amount of throttle
there is nothing noticed. It doesn't jolt anymore which was not a good quirk.

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
you will inevitably get flat spots under 2000 revs due to turbo dropping off boost and load of engine in higher gears being at it's greatest.

Mine used to jolt badly between 1800 and 2200 revs until +40mg air was added to EGR.

If i cruise at about 70mph it's only pulling about 1800 revs. Every now and then at hills on A19 too and from work I can feel the egr close and for split second a delay in power but only if adding small throttle inputs.

it's very odd.

I think it's just one of those things. If I give a decent amount of throttle
there is nothing noticed. It doesn't jolt anymore which was not a good quirk.

Ian

The EGR was reset back from the +40 setting by my dealer. No faults could be noticed and they did not see any flat spots. However it only happens when the engine is warm and in certain circumstances.
 

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The EGR was reset back from the +40 setting by my dealer. No faults could be noticed and they did not see any flat spots. However it only happens when the engine is warm and in certain circumstances.
mine did it under light acceleration mostly heading up a hill or slip road.
I had DDE update too. Latest software was uploaded then EGR was set up

took 3 goes to get it nearest. Have you tried disabling EGR solenoid and seeing if car drives ok? Will put light on dash though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
mine did it under light acceleration mostly heading up a hill or slip road.
I had DDE update too. Latest software was uploaded then EGR was set up

took 3 goes to get it nearest. Have you tried disabling EGR solenoid and seeing if car drives ok? Will put light on dash though.
No, not that technical to disable the EGR, not sure how to. Do you have a guide?

I agree that it happens mostly when overtaking or up hills when you are pushing a bit for the acceleration to occur.
 

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this is only a temp measure as light will stay on dash....

remove engine cover and locate alternator. On top of that there will be a solenoid which controls the vacuum to EGR. It will have a pipe into it and one out to the EGR.

Dis connect that electrical plug to the soleniod (pressure converter for correct name) and run car for a few days through normal driving.

If your problem is same as mine it will go away and car will feel very nice.

One way of reducing EGR manually is to put a 22mm copper pipe blanking in the end of the EGR inlet with a 7mm hole drilled in it.

see here ........http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f75/2005-120d-m47n2-engine-concerns-t5561/page8.html

it worked fine for me at motorway speeds but didn't suit car running around at urban speeds.

I had to buy 2 - you can have my spare to try if you want. Will need a bit of DIY to get it to fit (chop off material up to the bulge and drill hole)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this is only a temp measure as light will stay on dash....

remove engine cover and locate alternator. On top of that there will be a solenoid which controls the vacuum to EGR. It will have a pipe into it and one out to the EGR.

Dis connect that electrical plug to the soleniod (pressure converter for correct name) and run car for a few days through normal driving.

If your problem is same as mine it will go away and car will feel very nice.

One way of reducing EGR manually is to put a 22mm copper pipe blanking in the end of the EGR inlet with a 7mm hole drilled in it.

see here ........http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f75/2005-120d-m47n2-engine-concerns-t5561/page8.html

it worked fine for me at motorway speeds but didn't suit car running around at urban speeds.

I had to buy 2 - you can have my spare to try if you want. Will need a bit of DIY to get it to fit (chop off material up to the bulge and drill hole)
Thanks but I won't be doing any DIY work myself, either the thing will be repaired or replaced or refunded, the car was purchased as new it is still under SoGA and this has been happening since new.

I think I will go down the lines of getting someone to independently confirm the fault before I get the dealer to do something with it - it's quite simply; repair, replace, or refund the car. I have had enough of it to be honest, it's now been 9 months and 14k miles on it.

EGR +40mg doesn't work.
 

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un plugging EGR will prove that is the problem if it drives OK with no EGR it gives you a focus.

I tried all kinds got really p1ssed off and was ready to sell and go back to a VAG motor.

Car's are so complicated now that the dealer don't have a clue unless a computer can tell them where to look. There is no real skill
gained from experience anymore.

There seems to be too many causes and not enough countermeasures in my eyes ....i woked in automotive design for 8 years and know all
about the troubles of car quirks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I originally test drove a 123d and that is what made me decide to go with it. No issue was apparent on the test driven vehicle.

Anyway, I will try and disable the valve as you say and report back.
 

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I originally test drove a 123d and that is what made me decide to go with it. No issue was apparent on the test driven vehicle.

Anyway, I will try and disable the valve as you say and report back.
i was tempted to BMW by lack of timing belt, performance and good (but incorrect) MPG figures

I still stand by my thoughts that the best diesel is the 1.9 VAG TDI PD 130 (none EU4) Loads of power, Grunt and realistic MPG's

Yes BMW is good, smooth etc but is thirsty...
 
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