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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, does anyone happen to know where the sunroof drain exit points would be on a 2007 e63 (facelift)? I have this dreaded water in the rear driver side footwell issue and i can't get to the bottom of it. I've cleared the wing drains, scuttle drain is clear with no water collecting down there. I've pulled apart my A-pillar trims but there are no drain tubes there for me to try to clear out and I can't see any exit points anywhere under the car. The door seal was replaced last year by the previous owner and there are no obvious signs of ingress. Just a shallow paddling pool taunting me and severely condensated windows 馃槴. If anyone can help me resolve this I will send love, hugs, beer, food, my soul. Anything!
 

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This should help:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Timm - will check this out too. So I may have a new deployment, today I managed to pull my door apart and have discovered another point of i grease for the water. My vapour barrier definitely has a gap in in the seal so am going to attempt to reseal this. Do you know which is best product for this? I thought I'd read somewhere on here that the buytyl tape wasn't the best and that there's some other kind of sealant but I could be imagining it in my recent disminished mental state! Also, any tips on. Drying out carpets without removing them? I don't have a garage or anywhere to dry them out so this is a no goer unfortunately!
 

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Butyl tape is what is used from the factory - you can buy a roll from BMW but they charge about 拢15 for it. That said, it lasts for years - I bought one about five years ago and it's done several fixes on various of my cars and it's still going strong.

It's also easy to apply in a proper roll. Can's see any reason to go with anything else to be honest - not cheap for what it is in that you could probably save a tenner by buying a tube of silicone sealant but at least you know it's what's supposed to be there and that it won't eat the paintwork or the vapour barrier material. And because it's a roll you just roll it on like double sided tape as opposed to tubes of sealant you squeeze and that then go everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ah ha, good to know, thanks Evog 馃憤馃憤. I think I'll give this a go then. My only worry is the whole procedure and making sure I get it right. Will I need to remove the whole vapour barrier and clean off the old tape before applying the new lot? I'm happy to give it a go but don't want to mess it up or have to do it all again because of incorrect installation. If I need to remove the barrier do I need to remove any of the components to do this? Looking at it today, I couldn't figure out how to detach some of the cables like the door handle cable so had to balance the door card on my toes whilst I tinkered! Really practical 馃槅
 

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I've never removed one in it's entirety (at least not for resealing purposes).

No need to remove it or any components - just ease the membrane edge away from the door about an inch each side of where it's failed gently with fingers and then apply the tape to the door overlapping (but not on top of) where the tape is still good and then press the membrane back down. Job's a goodun!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah ha, so just patching the area where it's come unstuck rather than resealing the whole door?
 

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Not at all! Yeah, I'd just patch - if it ain't broke elsewhere don't fix it :). Also it's the bottom edge and the first couple of inches up the sides that's most important from a dry carpet perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool, thanks very much for the advice. Currently on the hunt for BMW's butyl tape. There's 3M window weld and other products but no idea which will hold the best. Gonna be trial and error I think. Hopefully 1x trial and no error!!
 

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I just picked it up from my local parts department. I'll see if I can find mine tomorrow and see it has a helpful label or part number on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice one good sir! I'll give my local dealer a call too and let you know if i manage to get anywhere
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, very sorry, thought I'd already replied to say thanks. Thought I'd give you a quick update after all the help you been providing and also just in case anyone else is experiencing this issue. So, success (I think) with the Butyl tape solution on my off side vapour barrier! It remains to be seen if water is getting in somewhere else but after tipping plenty of water down the window and washing the car, water no longer seems to be seeping in between the door and door and door card - result!! After pulling back the carpet by the door and spying water shimmering away in some recess in the metal body down there, I fashioned a siphon to try drain it out. Unfortunately this wouldn't work due to the incorrect level between the water and the ground so I ended up 'manually' removing as much as I could. This involved attaching a straw to my camelbak drinking hose so it could fit in that hole, and sucking hell out of that pool of water until I'd drained about 2 cups worth out. Fingers crossed I don't end up with some waterborne disease as a result but there's no way I could put up with the condensation or the thought of the pending damage to the carpets or electrics and it's not bone dry still so now to dry the carpets. Hopefully several long drive with heating on full whack and air con on will help. I've attached pics for anyone reading this with a similar problem
In summary, if you have a soaking wet rear driver side footwell, there's a good chance it's the vapour barrier that needs resealing. Depending on how long this has been going on for you might have a pool of water collecting beneath the carpet, drain this out using a pipe that fits in the hole in the metal work beneath the wiring loom and then set to work drying out! The circled bits are where my seal had totally come away so I cleaned it up and applied new butyl tape. I don't know if it'll help at all but I warmed the new tape with a heat gun to make it even stickier before applying it. I pressed it down very firmly and then ran a leak test before reassembling everything. If you've stumbled across this thread and have the same problem, I hope this helps!
Evog - thanks so much for tour many replies. Love this forum!!
271980
271981
271982
271983
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey, very sorry, thought I'd already replied to say thanks. Thought I'd give you a quick update after all the help you been providing and also just in case anyone else is experiencing this issue. So, success (I think) with the Butyl tape solution on my off side vapour barrier! It remains to be seen if water is getting in somewhere else but after tipping plenty of water down the window and washing the car, water no longer seems to be seeping in between the door and door and door card - result!! After pulling back the carpet by the door and spying water shimmering away in some recess in the metal body down there, I fashioned a siphon to try drain it out. Unfortunately this wouldn't work due to the incorrect level between the water and the ground so I ended up 'manually' removing as much as I could. This involved attaching a straw to my camelbak drinking hose so it could fit in that hole, and sucking hell out of that pool of water until I'd drained about 2 cups worth out. Fingers crossed I don't end up with some waterborne disease as a result but there's no way I could put up with the condensation or the thought of the pending damage to the carpets or electrics and it's not bone dry still so now to dry the carpets. Hopefully several long drive with heating on full whack and air con on will help. I've attached pics for anyone reading this with a similar problem
In summary, if you have a soaking wet rear driver side footwell, there's a good chance it's the vapour barrier that needs resealing. Depending on how long this has been going on for you might have a pool of water collecting beneath the carpet, drain this out using a pipe that fits in the hole in the metal work beneath the wiring loom and then set to work drying out! The circled bits are where my seal had totally come away so I cleaned it up and applied new butyl tape. I don't know if it'll help at all but I warmed the new tape with a heat gun to make it even stickier before applying it. I pressed it down very firmly and then ran a leak test before reassembling everything. If you've stumbled across this thread and have the same problem, I hope this helps!
Evog - thanks so much for tour many replies. Love this forum!! View attachment 271980 View attachment 271981 View attachment 271982 View attachment 271983
Update : the gap was all along this bottom edge
271984
 

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Excellent news - glad that's resolved and thanks for the update!

Re drying out - it will take forever as there's a huge amount of sound deadening down there. So to speed it up...

Wet/dry vacuum repeatedly and then put several bowls of caravan dessicant down and keep changing them over to help pull the moisture out in between drives.
 

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Excellent news - glad that's resolved and thanks for the update!

Re drying out - it will take forever as there's a huge amount of sound deadening down there. So to speed it up...

Wet/dry vacuum repeatedly and then put several bowls of caravan dessicant down and keep changing them over to help pull the moisture out in between drives.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the drying advice and your help in general. Do you mean those dehumidifier bag type things with the silica gel balls or is it actually loose dessicant? Hopefully I'll get to enjoy a dry car again soon but this cold weather isn't helping. Fingers crossed I don't get a mould/mildew issue!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Would you recommend either of these types of solutions (both are reusable) or would you recommend bowls of loose dessicant more? I've read about silica gel balls and some crystal types but wondering which are more effective
271985
271986
 

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I think whatever is the most economically sensible - probably half a dozen on those bags and just keep whacking them through the microwave twice a day. The caravan ones are often loose dessicant in a covered bowl, but the bags above work well and are probably likely to pull water out of the carpet better if placed directly on it.
 
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