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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

I started writing this thread and it turned into an essay!!

In summary:

1. Is the X3 2.0d generally quite sluggish?
2. How do I check the turbo?
3. Why would the EGR valve and pipes be so sooty?
4. How do I check whether the EGR valve is working?
5. Is there free software I can download if I buy a lead (any recommendations on which lead and software to get)
6. Will VAGCOM read BMW codes?

Long version and background!!

I'm new to this forum as I've just bought an X3. I'm not new to BMWs as I have had many previous to this one (E36 318iS, E36 M3, E36 328i, Z3, E87 120d another E36 318iS and now the E83 X3) so like to think I have a decent basic knowledge (probably not).

My problem is that the X3 feels slow. Before you all get on to me for expecting the X3 to be fast - I understand it's heavy and it's a 4x4 etc etc. Here's how I conclude that it's slow - according to the stats below it should be faster than my old 318iS and it's certainly a lot slower.

Stats:

X3
9.9secs to 60
1745kg
147bhp
123mph top speed

3series coupe (my old M reg)
10.9secs to 60
-
140bhp
125mph top speed

When I had the 120d I could hear the turbo whistling and feel it kicking in.

I initially thought the turbo may not have been working but now dont know. I have taken off the large pipe (3inch) that goes from the intercooler to the EGR valve and it's quite badly coked up. Theres carbon deposits and soot all inside it. I was going to take the EGR valve off and give it a good clean too.

My brother has VAGCOM software for his Audi and VWs will this read the BMW codes?

I suppose my questions are...

1. Is the X3 2.0d generally quite sluggish?
2. How do I check the turbo?
3. Why would the EGR valve and pipes be so sooty?
4. How do I check whether the EGR valve is working?
5. Is there free software I can download if I buy a lead (any recommendations on which lead and software to get)
6. Will VAGCOM read BMW codes?

Will be glad to take a good slagging for being stupid and or advice for what to try!!

Thanks,

BigMac10
 

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I can answer question 1 as i have a 2.0dse.
No they are not sluggish and are quite nippy.
The EGR valve will be sooty as it is the Exhaust recirclation valve so will get sooty from the exhaust residue.

Your best bet would be get the codes read. i don't think vagcom will do it.

EDIT: mine is a (150 bhp model)
 

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I can answer question 1 as i have a 2.0dse.
No they are not sluggish and are quite nippy.
The EGR valve will be sooty as it is the Exhaust recirclation valve.

Your best bet would be get the codes read. i don't think vagcom will do it.
I agree, my other halfs 2007 X3 2.0dse (150bhp) is also very nippy off the mark :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks.

No wonder it's slow. The poor thing is being starved of air!!
It doesnt look like the air filter has been out since it was new!! Full of leaves etc.

What are the circular rubber plugs for in the bottom of the air box? I reckon that by removing these permanently and installing a new filter (dunno - may go for a K&N but they are more than 2 thirds dearer than a Bosch) that would increase the air flow greatly and maybe not hold it back.

Mine is also the 150BHP model so shouldnt be too shabby, thats why I was wondering.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got a new air filter and cleaned up the EGR valve - jobs a good un. Havent taken the car out for a run yet. but will report back with my findings, soon as I have. It can only have done good though. EGR pics attached.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What gets me is that the book is fully stamped by a main dealer. I have a good mind to take the air filter in and dump it on the service desk.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I drove the car over the weekend and it seemed a bit more responsive - nothing dramatic though.

When should the fuel filter be changed?
I'm guessing if the air filter was in that condition then its unlikely to have had the fuel filter changed either.
 

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Here you go mate!!

BMW Inspection I
The BMW Inspection 1 Service is the smaller of the two inspection services recommended by BMW. It includes basically all of the items that assures safety and full functionality of your vehicle. Other makes and models can also utilize this maintenance program to ensure a pleasant drive and ownership (But make sure you mechanic says it is OK first). Inspection 1 could cost in the range of £200+ to £300+ depending on who you go to and also if you have any repairs. (Repair cost are not included in the inspection cost) So be prepared to spend more!. If your mechanical skills are high, just DO-It-Yourself!

Undercarriage
Change engine oil and filter oil while engine is at normal operation temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
Examine brake disc surfaces.
Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
Grease wheel center hubs.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
Check front control arm bushing for wear.
Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.


Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Reset Service Indicator.


Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
Perform batter load test.
Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.


Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission




Inspection II
The Inspection 2 Service is the larger of the two Inspection Services and basically includes all of the items performed on the Inspection I Service along with some extras like differential oil change; fuel filter and air filter replacements; Replacement of spark plugs. Inspection 2 generally runs around $500+ to $800+. Below are the items that are normally performed. If you are performing the inspection yourself, We carry most of the BMW parts you need to complete the inspection and replacement of BMW parts. Click here for the Online BMW Parts Catalog. Don't forget to purchase the BMW service/oil change reset tool.

Undercarriage
Change engine oil and filter oil while engine is at normal operation temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
Examine brake disc surfaces.
Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
Grease wheel center hubs.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
Check front control arm bushing for wear.
Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
Check thickness of parking brake linings.
Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Reset Service Indicator.
Replace spark plugs.
Replace intake air cleaner element.


Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
Perform batter load test.
Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.


Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm going to book it in and have a diagnostic check run on it. The lack of power seems worse again.

When driving up a hill, you can drop a gear, put the boot down and it just makes more noise, it doesnt necessarily go any faster. I keep feeling like I need to rev the ar5e out it to get anywhere.

I wonder if it might be the air flow meter, though there's still something in me thinks its the turbo that isnt giving full oomph!

Been quoted £352.50 for a remap to take it from 150bhp to 216bhp. Sounds good but is a lot of dosh (how can I justify that on a family wagon!!)and I need to know it's running as it should before I go doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well!

The garage I bought it from offered to pay the majority of a full inspection 2 service and have the diagnostics run. (I only paid £100)

Surprise surprise there was only 1 fault recorded (several times) and it was for the EGR valve. The valve was checked (by them) and is working fine (no surprise there seens how I took it out and cleaned it!!). The codes were reset and I've to take it in next week to run the diagnostics again and make sure the fault code doesnt come back.


There is a bit more oomph now and the air con is freezing - good result all round.

Does anyone know if the EGR gives a fault code, does the ECU change the settings to account for that until the fault code is cleared??
i.e. if it gets a fault with the EGR, does the ECU automatically give it more air to compensate for that which is not coming from the EGR, then if the EGR is then working again (cos I cleaned it) and the fault not cleared does it continue with the "faulty" settings, too much air and running lean?
 

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Hi Bigmac10
How many miles has yours done now and again our x3 feels a bit sluggish at low revs a bit fluffy if you know what i mean and ours is remapped which did make a huge difference but i still get this sort of huge turbo lag flattish until 2250 rpm plan to look at the air filter tomorrow.
where is the egr valve found
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Mr Silver, you might need to get the fault code reset to notice the difference from the cleaned EGR.

Mines done 82k.

What remap do you have?
 

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Mine was remapped by http://www.p-torque.co.uk/ i find them second to none he really knows his stuff i've had a few done by him but a bit far for you i suppose but well worth it the x3 is putting out around 185-190bhp couldnt dyno it due to 4wd but my 320d 2006 was putting out 207bhp on the dyno huge huge difference this is how they should have been from day one
 
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