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2004 E60 530d - voltage going up and down and more

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voltage
16K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  Alan G  
Hi - your symptoms of wildly fluctuating voltage have been correctly diagnosed by previous responses in terms of the logical reason. This is 90% certain to be due to alternator/regulator problems. I have been trying to sort an E38 charging problem for weeks and have become far more informed by following this every step of the way.

The danger is that you are doing harm to your new battery by having the charging voltage so erratic. Certainly when you get above 14.5v you are beginning to cook the battery.

The questions I have are:

How old is the alternator ?
How old is the regulator ?
neither of these components are 100% reliable after 150k miles , although they can continue to work, they reach a danger zone in terms of failing.

When you first go to your car in the morning what is that voltage across the battery terminals ? This should be 12.7 ish - with a new battery it should not be below 12v. Monitoring that voltage after an overnight rest will indicate whether a parasitic drain is occurring, which is another area to examine if the alternator/ regulator route is not successful.

My advice - change the regulator immediately - the cost is minimal and it is a good investment anyway. If faults persist, the alternator is the next main suspect - I would not think that this would break the bank if you track down a proper Bosch remanned fully warrantied exchange. I have just bought a water cooled Bosch reman and the price was les than a quarter of the BMW price for a replacement.

The simple answer to correct voltage readings - when you go to the car expect circa 12.5vs ( use a multimeter not the OBC ). When the car is on tick-over with not a lot draining, the voltage will be circa 14.2v. With all accessories pulling hard ( lights, heater, A/c, rear screen heater etc ) the voltage will be circa 13.7v.

Measure voltage at the alternator and then check at the battery - what is coming from the alternator may not be reaching the battery ( that will usually be due to dirty terminals or ground connections - that means battery to chassis or engine to chassis .)

Finally, does the battery warning light illuminate when the voltage drops to 11 ish volts ? The warning light is designed to go off when the feed side ( coming from the alternator ) exceeds the static battery side ( coming from the battery ) - thus if your battery voltage is where it should be - 12.7 - the alternator must send at least 12.8+++ to extinguish the battery warning light.

I am trying to make this reasonably easy to comprehend as your problem is very likely to be straightforward rather than a convoluted mixture of electronic related possibilities.

Good luck - keep us posted as to how you progress.