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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I have been having issue with a vibration/wheel wobble on my 530d. To date I have had discs/pads changed all round (the rears were warped but the fronts weren't too bad), new thrust arms on the front as the bushes were worn and I have just fitted a new set of wheels and tyres as the old set had a flat spot and two buckles!

This has almost completely fixed the problem but there is still a slight "shimmy" driving along and still a slight vibration under braking. What I have now found is that if I put a load in the boot, the "shimmy" becomes more noticable and the vibration under braking is significantly worse.

Getting to breaking point on this motor now so any ideas would be greatly received. BTW car's done 120k

Thanks
 

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Don't give up on the wheels and tyres. They may be new but that doesn't mean they are perfectly balanced. Shimmy felt in seat suggests one rear is out. If the vibration on braking is felt in the steering then it's a different problem and may settle as new disc and pads bed.
Definitive balance on sensitive 5 series is best done on hunter road force machine. I think your nearest is birmingham / Walsall. Google hunter road force birmingham and you may get some joy. I would do this first before anything else ( best £55 I ever spent) ride is glass smooth now after months of problems.
 

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Is the hub bore size correct on your new wheels? Older wheels and some other Bimmer wheels have a larger bore size. The bore is important, it should be quite a tight fit to centralize your wheels. Too big and your wheels will only be partlially centralized by the bolts but far from perfect. If it's wrong get some spigot rings off Ebay to correct it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The hub size is different but it has the correct spigots fitted, I double checked this with the fitters. Also, they were fitted to the hub not the wheel as apparently if you fit them to the wheel they can misalign and crush. I'm tending towards the wheel balance as there is distinct rear wheel shimmy through the seats at about 60 then up at 70 a front wheel wobble through the steering, it tops out at 80 where the two seem to come in to sync and then eases off until it disappears. (on a private track you understand).
 

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Hi all, I have been having issue with a vibration/wheel wobble on my 530d. To date I have had discs/pads changed all round (the rears were warped but the fronts weren't too bad), new thrust arms on the front as the bushes were worn and I have just fitted a new set of wheels and tyres as the old set had a flat spot and two buckles!

This has almost completely fixed the problem but there is still a slight "shimmy" driving along and still a slight vibration under braking. What I have now found is that if I put a load in the boot, the "shimmy" becomes more noticable and the vibration under braking is significantly worse.

Getting to breaking point on this motor now so any ideas would be greatly received. BTW car's done 120k

Thanks
Classic thrust link arm bushes symptoms.......
 

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Have you checked your rear trailing arm bushes??? Just replaced mine on the rear of my E60! also had to do them on my E39 when i had it.

Gives you a wobbly unconnected feeling when going over bumps (i.e. pot holes) more when cornering but also on the straights. Mine felt horrible at motorway speeds.

Just jack up one rear wheels (either or as after youve checked one side your going to check the other) when the wheel is off the floor you want to put your hands one at the top of the wheel and the other at the bottom (so one at 12 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock) now push and pull the wheel up and down and if you feel play (movement) then your rear trailing arm bushes need replacing.

Hope this helps!?
 

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Have you jacked up each corner and spun the wheel by hand to make sure they spin true and straight? Make sure the ignition is off or you will get some very nasty noises from the ABS system!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, checked tyre pressures and they were low - don't trust tyre fitters!! Put correct pressures in and it has improved but not cured completely. Having the wheels rebalanced again on Sat to see if there is any difference. If that doesn't cure it i think I'll look at the rear trailing arm bushes as I do get an "unconnected feel" over bumps. Thanks kewies, didn't even think at looking at the back suspension!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Kewies,
Update.... had wheels replaced with another (more subtle) set as the first were marked. Had them rebalanced and it was better but not perfect. Took the car to another tyre shop with a hunter wheel balancer today and they said that the front off-side looked like it was buckled as it was showing a wobble and it took 100g to balance. The car is better again though so when I get this one corner sorted it should solve it. Contacted the wheel dealer and they said to take it round, it might be the tyre..either way he will sort it...watch this space.

Didn't realise it was so difficult to get round wheels and tyres!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi all, back again with an update.

New wheels are finally balanced. Since starting with this problem, I have replaced the following: Discs all round, rear pads (front were nearly new according to the technician), I also had the front discs checked to make sure they were true (they are within the acceptable limits). I have replaced the tension struts and lower wishbones both sides. I've checked the play in the rear wheels and there doesn't appear to be any. The judder has now changed. it is now a very high speed vibration at 80+ and on reducing speed stays the same intensity until about 40 where it becomes more violent and then drops off at about 35. I noticed that the stablizer bar bushes on the front had a significant gap between them and the bar when the car was jacked up on one side so i think they may be soft. Would these bushes being worn cause this sort of symptom? Also, would a flat spot on a front wheel cause this? When not braking, the car is running smooth.

Kewies, if you're around, what is the part number for the rear trailing arm bushes? I can't seem to find them on real oem and as I'm virtually rebuilding the suspension i might as well replace these.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update.

OK so since the above I have replaced the stabilizer bushes - better but not fixed. Replaced the wishbones - far better but still there.
Replaced the front Discs/pads (again) Cured.

I think it was a combination of the wishbones,tension struts and discs but at least it's fixed now. Drives like a new car.

Thanks for all the help.
 
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