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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I have one of the last E36 compacts, year 2000 with the 3G EWS mk2 alarm. (the one with the fob with a corner missing and a red and grey button).

The car has been off the road for a few months as i changed the passenger wing. During this time the main car battery has been changed. I cannot get the alarm to work properly.

The fob is recognised by the alarm, and activates/ deactivates the central locking. The problem is the siren under the bonnet keeps going off.

1. I activate the alarm by pressing the red button. The doors lock and the alarm enters the testing mode. After 30 seconds it should enter the surveillance mode and the led should flash. This isn't working as the siren will go off.

2. If i press the grey button to deactivate the alarm, once again the central locking unlocks, but the siren will go off, and keep going off every 30 seconds. For some reason i cannot deactivate the alarm properly. After deactivating, 30 seconds later the red led flashes.
(to stop draining the battery i have to remove the fuse from the module and unplug the siren under the bonnet)

I have read the guide, but this seems more for programing the fob.
Any advice please.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds to me like a battery back up fault, be worth having a word the guy who made this thread, :thumbsup http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f3/e36-alarm-identification-guide-3t-2t-3g-ews-t39173/

billywhizz1984. http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/member.php?u=20122
Either that, or something related to the wiring for the siren. I wonder if removing the passenger wing may have something to do with it, ie disturbing some earth connection ?

As we speak, the alarm is deactivated, but every 30 secs, for 30 secs, the siren is going off. (until i disconnect it)
 

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Ok, there is a fault somewhere triggering the warning beeps.

On the 3G Mk2 the bonnet pin has a wire that runs from the siren loom. If you have replaced the wing this could have been cut or disconnected. Next place to check is the bootlid wiring as shown in the guide. If there is a crossed wire the alarm sensors will think there is a door open or an electrical drop and will activate the unit. Finally I have had issues in the past with faluty interior sensors. The easy way to check this is to unplug the red & white connectors from the alarm module.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, there is a fault somewhere triggering the warning beeps.

On the 3G Mk2 the bonnet pin has a wire that runs from the siren loom. If you have replaced the wing this could have been cut or disconnected. Next place to check is the bootlid wiring as shown in the guide. If there is a crossed wire the alarm sensors will think there is a door open or an electrical drop and will activate the unit. Finally I have had issues in the past with faluty interior sensors. The easy way to check this is to unplug the red & white connectors from the alarm module.
Thanks, I will check these out.

When the alarm is deactivated though, surely none of this matters as the system wont be bothered about open circuits (ie if the bonnet was open, or if there was a fault in the bonnet wiring)
 

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When the siren goes off on set is it a full-blast "alarm" or is is a loud beep every 2 or 3 seconds?

If it is the full "alarm" then the system is in attack mode. Try unplugging the alarm module and reconnecting it. You may need to reprogramme it afterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought a used siren off ebay, and its changed the way the alarm "operates". Now when you arm it, the doors lock, the led is solid for 30 secs, then it flashes. That seems to be working okay.

The problem is when you disarm it, the central locking unlocks, then after 30 seconds the led comes one with one flash of the indicators. It is still armed.

The battery back up in the siren is fine. Very loud.

Can someone point me to a wiring diagram for the alarm please.
 

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Alarm Module (Large Plug)

1. Grey/Brown – Spliced Into Grey/Brown/Yellow of Green Plug (X13254) Pin 2
2. Vacant
3. Violet/Grey – To Siren Plug Pin 4
4. Black/White – To Siren Plug Pin 3
5. Violet/White (Shielded) – Spliced Into Violet/White in Loom behind Glovebox
6. Brown – To Earth
7. Vacant
8. Vacant
9. Brown – To LED Pin 1
10. Grey – To LED Pin 2
11. Blue – To LED Pin 3 & 4
12. Vacant
13. Vacant
14. Vacant
15. Red – To Live
16. Blue/Red (Shielded) to Hazard Switch
17. Blue/Yellow – To Purple Plug (X13253) Pin 17
18. Blue/Green/Blue – Spliced Into Blue/Red/Yellow of Purple Plug (X13253) Pin 4
19. Red/Brown – To Siren Plug Pin 2
20. Blue/White (Shielded). Spliced Into Blue/White In Loom Behind Dash
21. Vacant
22. Brown/White (Shielded). Spliced Into Brown/White In Boot Near Light
23. Black/Brown – Not Connected
24. Brown/Violet. To Siren Plug Pin 5


Alarm Module (Small Plug)

1. Vacant
2. Vacant
3. Vacant
4. Brown/Blue – Spliced Into Brown/Blue/Yellow of Green Plug (X13254) Pin 3
5. White/Green – Not Connected
6. White/Black – Not Connected
7. Vacant
8. Black – Not Connected


Alarm Siren Plug

1. Brown
2. Brown/Red (
Orange on some siren wiring)
3. Black/White
4. Violet/Grey
5. Black (Black/Red or Brown/Violet on some siren wiring) This goes to the bonnet pin-switch
6. Red


LED

1. Brown
2. Grey
3. Blue
4. Blue – Spliced Into Pin 3

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks.

Any tips on where to look. I checked the bonnet pin wiring, looks okay. Changing the wings meant removing the lights, indicators etc. Any thoughts?
 

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First thing to try is resetting the alarm module. Unplug the alarm module and disconnect the battery, If all is well the siren should go off into attack mode. Reconnect the battery then plug the alarm module back in and it should stop but you will get the flasing LED and indicators. You may need to reprogram the fobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
First thing to try is resetting the alarm module. Unplug the alarm module and disconnect the battery, If all is well the siren should go off into attack mode. Reconnect the battery then plug the alarm module back in and it should stop but you will get the flasing LED and indicators. You may need to reprogram the fobs.
Firstly i cant disarm the alarm fully. It will arm properly as it should. (doors lock, indicators, led solid, then flashes) Then i disarm it, seems fine then 30 seconds later it arms again. The doors dont lock but if i put my hand through the window it go's off.

It also drives okay, ignition on, no problem.

Back to your suggestion. I can only do this in the 30 second gap from when i disarm the alarm. I unplugged the module, both plugs, then disconnect the battery. The siren go's into full screech. When i reconnect the earth connection on the car battery, the siren stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Question.

On the bonnet pin there are two spade connections, but there is only one wire connected. Is this correct?
 

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Yes, only one wire, it is just an earth.

When it arms after 30 seconds and then "goes off" is this loud regular beeping or full blast continuous siren?

If you don't put your hand through the window what happens?
 

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found this PDF electrical trouble shooting finding Manual on 1999 E36 318is/c through to the M3, contains wiring diagrams and fuse allocation, a bit technical but hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, only one wire, it is just an earth.

When it arms after 30 seconds and then "goes off" is this loud regular beeping or full blast continuous siren?

If you don't put your hand through the window what happens?
What happens is you press the grey button to disarm and unlock the car. Everything seems okay, then 39 seconds later the led next to the gear lever comes on. If you either put your hand through the window, or open the door its the full continuous siren.

If i were to guess, i'd say you disarm the alarm, it runs through its tests, realises something wrong and rearms/ sets the alarm on again.

btw, thanks for your help so far. I appreciate it.
 

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It sounds like it is auto-arming, it would never do this because of a fault but it can be programmed to do it. Prior to the wing job everything worked OK I take it?
 

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I've known a similar symptom on arm rather than disarm and it was the fob battery. Illogical I know but it seemed it just wasn't getting the right signal. Worth a try!
 
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