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Discussion Starter #1
Hello lads, I know rear brake pipes have been mentioned before, but not sure if they covered convertibles.
I've got the car on axle stands and have undone the three tank straps, but it looks as if you have to be some sort of contortionist, to get anywhere near the feed to the offside. It looks as if it would be easier to drop the exhaust and prop shaft to allow the tank to drop enough to at least get your hands in to manouver and position the new pipes to avoid any rubbing.
Am I causing myself alot of work, or is there something else I should be doing ?
Any advice would be very welcome. Cheers in advance. Tony.:timebomb
 

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Here ya go

Hi, it isnt as hard as what most people think to do the rear pipes, i did mine not long ago. To start...drop the exhaust at the centre section...you dont need to drop the rear end of the exhaust though, remove your under body cover so you can see around the propshaft area, Ideally you need to have the cars back end in the air with both wheels off and and on axle stands as high as you can get it..this is so you can remove the brake pipes easier from the side at the connection point rather than struggling for hours and most likely rounding off your 11mm pipe nut. Look at the pipe you want to remove first and release it fromt eh connector by undoing it then do the same the other side...this is undoing the side connections which are easier to get first by the way, undo your tank straps and let it drop very slowly...making sure it is as empty as possible due to weight issues when it is dangling (i dont use a support method to hold it up as it gets in the way when wiggling around under the car) so run the car as low as you can fuel wise before attempting this procedure, Look for the under body connections for the brake pipes which are located near some fuel line connections undo your brake pipe connections then proceed to unclip your pipes and remove if you can...if not...chop as much of it away as you possibly can and then fit your new pipe as close as possible to your old one it doesnt have to follow the exact same route! it has to be above the tank and above the prop and going in the same kind of direction and have no kinks or possible issues where it may rub on something...tighten everything back up and replace everything you took off then bleed your brand new pipes through! sorted! sorry its just a quick idea of what to do as its late and im knacked! oh you need to undo the lid on your brake filler pot and sit it in its hole but not screw it down
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave, the tanks doesn't seem to drop too far because of the prop and I don't want to force it so I don't damage any fuel lines. There just doesn't seem to be any space to work in to ensure the new pipes aren't chaffing against anything.
 

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If you lift the rear seat base up and out and remove the 2 metal covers over the tank holes you can get into the brake pipes to fit them easier :)
 

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Hi Ronnie,
Do these holes really exist???? Or was it a little joke ha ha
Are you meaning the two cover plates that go over the pump/sender unit and fuel gauge sender unit??? Help please!!!
 

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There the ones mate. They are just under the rear seat base. I did mine a couple of weeks ago and it wasnt too bad a job. I dropped the tank completly coz i was on a ramp. But you can do it with the tank dropped out slightly to give you room. :thumbsup
 

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Hey Steve, so just to be clear:
I have to take the exhaust off,
lower the tank on its clamps,
leave the prop where it is?
then take the 2 covers off, from inside the car, below the rear set pan,

do I actually remove any of the fuel lines and pump/sender unit and fuel gauge sender unit, or do I just remove the covers?

I have ramps, so it will be up high at the rear. Sorry to be sooo specific, I just don't want to start it, until I know I can finish it, as I would need to get the lines taxi'd up to my local garage, where there gonna fabricate them to length for me, and I'd like to fit them say day, ie tomorrow. This is the only car I own you see.

Thanks for the advise.
 

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Dont mean to be rude newby, but how confident are you mate? Its a fair old job if you have not tackled anything like it before. :thumbsup
First i removed the exhaust rear sections and then the heat shields the length of the car.
I removed the complete prop from the rear of the gearbox, the centre bearing and from the diff.
Then i disconnected the fuel lines where they join to the front to rear pipes.
Removed the rear seat base and the 2 covers for the fuel level sender and just unplugged the connections. Then support the fuel tank with two axle stands with wood so you dont damage the tank. Then you can loosen the straps and lower the tank enough to gain access to the pipes. Its just a fiddly job. You just have to take your time.
Hope it goes ok mate :thumbsup
 

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Hey Steve, no worries, your not being rude at all my friend,
I am competent at everything you've listed, except the prop shaft, I've never tackled this before and to be honest it worries me, I know this is a big ask, but if you could let me know, Is this the most awkward part to do? I've not gone near the prop before, thats all, so any guidelines etc, would be really appreciated... Thanks again for taking the time to respond Steve.
As always everyones help here is really appreciated

Newby
 

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To be honest mate, the prop isnt that bad. You will have to have 2 spanners for the gearbox end i would recommend an open ended and a ring spanner. I think they are 18mm but not 100% on that. You only have to unbolt the rubber doughnut from the gearbox output. The centre bearing is held in by two 13mm bolts which hold the bracket to the floor. You must mark the position of this centre bracket so it all goes back the same. The prop is held on at the diff by 4 16mm nuts from what i remember. It not as bad as you think mate. It would help to have a second person with you to help lift and lever things for you :thumbsup
 

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Steve, your a diamond, thanks for the boost of confidence, Will attack first thing in the am.
I'll have a read up about the prop shaft and try and marry the descriptions that you have given with some pictures I can find in Manual etc and maybe on here. I may sound a bit nerdy, but I just like to be fully prepared, you know what they say - preparation, preparation, preparation! 1 more thing, before I start, what replacement gaskets or bolts, that may break would you suggest I have to hand prior to dis assemble???

Thanks so much again. cheers JJ
 

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You might want some new bolts for the exhaust front to centre joint just in case you cant undo them. I would grab some threadlock for the prop nuts and bolts too mate. Just where you attach them to the diff and the rubber doughnut to the gearbox output shaft. :thumbsup
 

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No worries about exhaust, just replace that myself, so there new, I'll have a look at the other area your talking about now in the manual.......
 

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Cheers Steve, 1 last question I promise, I hope you don't mind me sending sooo many posts.

I'm going through the Haynes Manual guide lines to remove the Prop shaft, it has some useful pictures, and thanks to you using the correct terminology, i'm following your advice. It advices me to replace the nuts to the rubber prop coupling to the gear housing and the nuts from the prop to the final drive, is this really necessary, as I'll have to go try and find these from a shop then! GSF or Euro parts....
It also mentions slackening off the threaded sleeve nut, which is near the support centre bearing bracket. Is this also necessary, I don't want to take the Haynes manual literally, as they can get quite in depth about things unnecessarily.
Cheers :thumbsup
 

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PS. I'll let you know how I go tomorrow night, I'll prop - ably have it done by about 3am!!!!

Prop get it, ha ha, Oh don't worry ha ha ha ha :hihi :D :rofl :rofl
 

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Sorry mate, must have had my eyes closed :embarrassed
You should in theory replace the nuts/bolts but i used a good quality threadlock. From what i remember they were nylock nuts so if you do want to replace them a decent hardware shop or motorfactors should have them.
I didnt realise when i did mine thats why i used threadlock :hihi
Im not sure what bolt it is in the centre, i just took the whole prop off in one go.:thumbsup
Im at work tomorrow and can nip off here and there to check the pc, so ill try and help as much as i can buddy. Ill just make sure the boss doesnt catch me :D
 

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No worries Steve,
I'll get some cheeky spare bolts first thing, some Threadlock just in case and some tippex to mark the joins etc form prop to gear housing etc.
Oh and some WD40) for those cheeky little nuts that don't like coming off! Such as Petrol tank clamps, (usually rusty under there) Hey as soon as I'm done I'll let you know buddy, don't get in trouble at work OK!!! Cheers again...:thumbsup
 
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