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Discussion Starter #1
Help please,

Ive had my E36 316i for about a month now and all of a sudden ive got the ABS light & the Traction light come on the dashboard, So i took it down my local garage where the guy plugged it in the computer for free for me and said that there is no power to the ABS pump and its failing.

Can anyone explain to me what this means, how much something like this should cost to get fixed im a total novice when it comes to mechanic's.

Can anyone help?
 

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Help please,

Ive had my E36 316i for about a month now and all of a sudden ive got the ABS light & the Traction light come on the dashboard, So i took it down my local garage where the guy plugged it in the computer for free for me and said that there is no power to the ABS pump and its failing.

Can anyone explain to me what this means, how much something like this should cost to get fixed im a total novice when it comes to mechanic's.

Can anyone help?

You need to check the wiring to the ABS pump mate and also the power connector to it.................we get alot of this prob on the VAG cars- if you are lucky then its the wiring that could be buggered if you are not then its the ABS unit, what error code did they give you?

there are many places out there that recon the ABS units now, new units are pretty expensive..........or you could locate a decent 2nd hand one.

replacing is pretty easy- could do it yourself if you are handy with a spanner and have a decent tool for bleeding the system i.e pressure bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need to check the wiring to the ABS pump mate and also the power connector to it.................we get alot of this prob on the VAG cars- if you are lucky then its the wiring that could be buggered if you are not then its the ABS unit, what error code did they give you?

there are many places out there that recon the ABS units now, new units are pretty expensive..........or you could locate a decent 2nd hand one.

replacing is pretty easy- could do it yourself if you are handy with a spanner and have a decent tool for bleeding the system i.e pressure bleeder.
Cheers for the info :thumbsup

Dont supose you could tell me how you check the wiring im a complete novice at all this?

How expensive is expensive?

Would a garage fit a re-con or second hand part?
 

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Unfortunately many garages will not even fit parts that a customer supplies themselves in my area let alone second hand parts:frown

Did you know that a part can be supplied by a garage and become faulty and replaced under warranty but you will still be charged for labour for the time it took to remove the faulty unit and refit the new?
 

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Try replacing or at least testing the relay output first. What year is the car? Ive got the same prob on mine, im 99% sure my fault is the pump module. Its most common on late 97> models using ATE braking systems with ASC/ASC+T/DSC (DSC only yr 2000>), not just e36's either, all BMWs. If i come out to the car on a really cold morning, the lights usually go out & everything works as normal, untill it gets warm under the bonnet & the lights come back on. Ive seen alot of threads on american & 5 series forums about it, the modules develop dry solder joints on the soleniods. In really cold weather everything contracts & creates a good joint, when warm joints expand & stop conducting. Easy fix if youre good with a soldering iron, im waiting till the warmer months! If you reaplce the module with either a second hand unit (you will run the risk of having the same prob), or a new one (approx £1000 from BMW), it will need coding to the cars ABS/ASC ECU. Do a google search on it, you will find plenty of info!

Edit: The ABS pump does not necessarily have to be removed from the car, so no fluid bleeding or mess, you can sometimes unbolt the module from the pump, although on my car the brake lines are in the way of removing the module, so the pump has to be removed first.
I just noticed in your first post that you said you are a complete novice when it comes to mechanics, so i appologise if all of this goes straight over your head!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Try replacing or at least testing the relay output first. What year is the car? Ive got the same prob on mine, im 99% sure my fault is the pump module. Its most common on late 97> models using ATE braking systems with ASC/ASC+T/DSC (DSC only yr 2000>), not just e36's either, all BMWs. If i come out to the car on a really cold morning, the lights usually go out & everything works as normal, untill it gets warm under the bonnet & the lights come back on. Ive seen alot of threads on american & 5 series forums about it, the modules develop dry solder joints on the soleniods. In really cold weather everything contracts & creates a good joint, when warm joints expand & stop conducting. Easy fix if youre good with a soldering iron, im waiting till the warmer months! If you reaplce the module with either a second hand unit (you will run the risk of having the same prob), or a new one (approx £1000 from BMW), it will need coding to the cars ABS/ASC ECU. Do a google search on it, you will find plenty of info!

Edit: The ABS pump does not necessarily have to be removed from the car, so no fluid bleeding or mess, you can sometimes unbolt the module from the pump, although on my car the brake lines are in the way of removing the module, so the pump has to be removed first.
I just noticed in your first post that you said you are a complete novice when it comes to mechanics, so i appologise if all of this goes straight over your head!!
Cheers for you help Im not looking forward to that £1000 price tag.

Your right about the cold morning thing the other day i had left the car out for a few hours when we had the snow here in the mids and the lights went off, but 20mins down the road the lights came on again!

Hope you dont mind me asking but;

Whats the realy output? where is it and how would i go about checking it?

You spoke about the soldering that could work, what do you mean by the modules?
 

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The ABS control module is located under the driver's side of the dash and the ABS system and pump relays are located in your main fuse box in the engine bay.
 

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The ABS control module is located under the driver's side of the dash and the ABS system and pump relays are located in your main fuse box in the engine bay.
The pump module is a small, black electronic box that is attatched to the pump, usually sealed but can be opened pretty easily. The control ECU is located under the dash, these dont tend to cause problems.
If the light has gone out in icy cold weather, it is more than likely the module on the pump needs some work. Relays usually just stop working, although i'll look further into the pin-outs for the relay & report here!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re,membering im a total novice guys,

Could this be as simple as changing the fuse then?:confused
ok ive swapped the fuses and the lights are still on, its going in the garage for a mechnical check tuesday £35 maybe ill have more info then
 

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ok ive swapped the fuses and the lights are still on, its going in the garage for a mechnical check tuesday £35 maybe ill have more info then

sounds good, let us know how it goes.............but as posted previously by another matey, when there is a prob with the ABS-it is usually the module attached to it- they can be swapped around but it is easier and cheaper to pick-up a whole second-hand pump. but get it checked over first to make sure:thumbsup
 

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Try replacing or at least testing the relay output first. What year is the car? Ive got the same prob on mine, im 99% sure my fault is the pump module. Its most common on late 97> models using ATE braking systems with ASC/ASC+T/DSC (DSC only yr 2000>), not just e36's either, all BMWs. If i come out to the car on a really cold morning, the lights usually go out & everything works as normal, untill it gets warm under the bonnet & the lights come back on. Ive seen alot of threads on american & 5 series forums about it, the modules develop dry solder joints on the soleniods. In really cold weather everything contracts & creates a good joint, when warm joints expand & stop conducting. Easy fix if youre good with a soldering iron, im waiting till the warmer months! If you reaplce the module with either a second hand unit (you will run the risk of having the same prob), or a new one (approx £1000 from BMW), it will need coding to the cars ABS/ASC ECU. Do a google search on it, you will find plenty of info!

Edit: The ABS pump does not necessarily have to be removed from the car, so no fluid bleeding or mess, you can sometimes unbolt the module from the pump, although on my car the brake lines are in the way of removing the module, so the pump has to be removed first.
I just noticed in your first post that you said you are a complete novice when it comes to mechanics, so i appologise if all of this goes straight over your head!!
im having this problem aswell just started doing it yesterday when its cold it stays on for a minute or 2 after the engine is running and then it will go off but as soon as the engine heats up BING!!! YOU HAVE WON!!!!!!! the inability to touch your brakes without locking up :applause going to check it out on the weekend and see how much of a ball ache its going to be to fix
 

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im having this problem aswell just started doing it yesterday when its cold it stays on for a minute or 2 after the engine is running and then it will go off but as soon as the engine heats up BING!!! YOU HAVE WON!!!!!!! the inability to touch your brakes without locking up :applause going to check it out on the weekend and see how much of a ball ache its going to be to fix
how did you get on? got any clues to the problem?
 

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Hey guys,
My '98 316i Compact also has this problem. The only difference is, that I've bought this car knowing that it has ABS failure, and I thought it couldn't be repaired. Fine, so I'm riding arround with a christmas tree instead of the dash.
And last year, on a roadtrip in southern Italy, when I came from 35°C on the coast to 8°C in Abruzzo mountains, lights suddenly went out and stayed that way for a while. What followed was a crazy-driving night in soaking wet Rome, and I got to test both systems and they both worked perfectly.
We're also talking about this problem on our slovenian forum, and someone says, it is impossible to repair ABS/ASC module on '98+ cars at home as a DIY project. I don't realy know why. If any of you pulled this project already, please, write about your experience.
 

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how did you get on? got any clues to the problem?
ive had no joy yet it seems to have gotten a bit random really the abs light will come on when the car is heated up but sometimes it will go off when heated up or it will be on all the time from cold
when ever i pull my finger out (possibly the weekend) im going to check all of the sensors and probably change the abs realy as well as they were problematic up untill 1996 the other thing my one doesnt have traction control either

http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=145202

it could be this as well i havent looked into the problem too much yet to really say what is wrong with mine
 

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Hey guys,
My '98 316i Compact also has this problem. The only difference is, that I've bought this car knowing that it has ABS failure, and I thought it couldn't be repaired. Fine, so I'm riding arround with a christmas tree instead of the dash.
And last year, on a roadtrip in southern Italy, when I came from 35°C on the coast to 8°C in Abruzzo mountains, lights suddenly went out and stayed that way for a while. What followed was a crazy-driving night in soaking wet Rome, and I got to test both systems and they both worked perfectly.
We're also talking about this problem on our slovenian forum, and someone says, it is impossible to repair ABS/ASC module on '98+ cars at home as a DIY project. I don't realy know why. If any of you pulled this project already, please, write about your experience.
Definately not impossible. If the ABS units can be sent away for repair quite cheap (which they can), then theres no reason why someone couldn't do it who's handy with a soldering iron. The main cause is dry joints as stated in one of my previous posts.
 

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Definately not impossible. If the ABS units can be sent away for repair quite cheap (which they can), then theres no reason why someone couldn't do it who's handy with a soldering iron. The main cause is dry joints as stated in one of my previous posts.
I beleive that your 99 car also has the new pump and control unit, like the ones in e46. Have you ever actualy seen one?

Does the circuit look something like this?
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/406015
 

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i had the very same problem and went through all the same things, the problem is the abs/asc control unit behind the glove box, it has fried unfortunatly, take it out and get the part number off it and try to get a second hand unit, theres plenty of breakers out there who will sort one for you!!
 

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I beleive that your 99 car also has the new pump and control unit, like the ones in e46. Have you ever actualy seen one?

Does the circuit look something like this?
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/406015
Cant say ive opened mine up yet, so not sure, but generally will look similar to that.

i had the very same problem and went through all the same things, the problem is the abs/asc control unit behind the glove box, it has fried unfortunatly, take it out and get the part number off it and try to get a second hand unit, theres plenty of breakers out there who will sort one for you!!
Very rare to see that unit pack in, but will bear that in mind.
 
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