BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok folks, now i know some people aren't fond of diy paint jobs but as the car is 15 years old and only cost £700 i don't see it worthwhile being done pro as A. the cost imo is too much and B. i know someone who had his done by a reputable body shop only for the rust to return after 2 years.

so i've got rear arches to do as they have rusted, so in the recent past i went down to a so called reputable paint matching place where the guy come out with chips so he matched it with a darker chip and gave me a can for £11 saying that with laquer it should brighten it up a bit ? lol wtf, came out dark and total mismatch, so a few months later i went to another reputable paint matching place where they told me to park the car in the shade so they could match it using chips, again they got it wrong came out darker so i was like how hard can it be matching arctic silver, so i researched on the internet for another place low and behold i came across a place in st helens near my mrs house and the guy said just give me the code and i get it straight off the computer and because its metallic and laquered there will be no fade and it will match perfectly. So today i did my side skirts and did my fuel flap to compare against the door.

So basically i just want some tips ie after laquering what grade should i sand the laquer with ? should i dry sand or wet sand and then wax or polish ?

heres a picture of the fuel flap and the door, dont mine the matches box that was used to prop it up so that it was level, ps it did get a little dark by the time i took the pic but still you can see its a good match.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
205 Posts
wet sand with 2500 grit, when flat wet compound with 2500 grit, then polish with little compound in it then polish then wax, thats how i do it and gets rid of orange peel and gives a nice shine and blend. others may have a better method hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Heres a little tester ive done on the rear quarter i think its a very good match, looks a little off because i havent laquered.





hate how silver can look different from certain angles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,165 Posts
Now for the hard bit, getting the laquer to come on smoothly and bring the silver underneath to look right. I just got my car back from the bodyshop. A few weeks ago, I had a pair of vented wings painted and fitted, last week, took the car back in to get an e39 Alpina bootspoiler fitted and 2 spoiler end rub marks blended in. He had to fill in the old spoiler's holes, respray the hole bootlid, AND sprayed both the rear panels!! £400. My car is also Arctic silver.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The laquer part isnt too bad to be honest i done it before, you spray enough coats, it will look patchy to start with so leave it about 2-3 days to harden and then you wet sand with fairy liquid water and it flattens and smooths is just like glass with a good reflection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
is it me because in certain places it seems that the color is off or is silver like that ? or maybe it needs laquering yet hence why it looks dark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Went back to the paint place to get another can and he came out with the arctic silver and mixed the solutions together to try and get the best match as he said himself its a bit dark so heres the results its not perfect or spot on but its not going to be but a marked improvement maybe after laquer sand and buff it will look even better.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
I reckon that looks pretty good mate.
Well done.

Just getting the courage up to do my rear quarter panel (after some f****r keyed it)

Reading your post has helped with that so cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
its doable diy and you can get good results from a diy job just take your time, preparation is everything, you might have a better match if your car aint silver, silvers a bitch but id rather have a slightly mismatching silver rather than a rusty arch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
just found these pics of arctic silver e36s its the way the light hits the silver hence why it looks a different shade check the rear quarters on these


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Reckon it's a given that silver is the hardest to "blow in" so you've done a goodun there.

They say it's all in the wrist - the blow in - taking the can "off" the respray area and up and away in order to blend with original paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
That seems to have come out really well! Makes me tempted to try the same.

How did you treat the rust before painting?
I'm assuming it looks a little too light on the arch itself 'cus of the angle and light reflection?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
You cannot do proper matching paint blow ins with rattle cans on a silver car - it will never look right. Best advice is wet flat it with 2000 grit, mask it up and lightly dust on the correct silver - that'll be from a BMW or Halfords can. The custom mixed stuff is crap and never looks right.
So, dust it on in several light coats holding the can about a foot away until it's all the correct (ish) silver. Let it dry (15 mins is fine) and then top coat that with laquer. I find the Halfords stuff to be best. Put plenty of laquer on in light coats - use the whole can but wait 10 mins between each coat. After a day, wet flat it with 2000 grit and T Cut it. That's the way I've done it and it gives reasonable results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
You cannot do proper matching paint blow ins with rattle cans on a silver car - it will never look right. Best advice is wet flat it with 2000 grit, mask it up and lightly dust on the correct silver - that'll be from a BMW or Halfords can. The custom mixed stuff is crap and never looks right.
So, dust it on in several light coats holding the can about a foot away until it's all the correct (ish) silver. Let it dry (15 mins is fine) and then top coat that with laquer. I find the Halfords stuff to be best. Put plenty of laquer on in light coats - use the whole can but wait 10 mins between each coat. After a day, wet flat it with 2000 grit and T Cut it. That's the way I've done it and it gives reasonable results.
Good advice - mostly, but then ruined (spectacularly) by your advising Halford's rattle cans. - they're worse than bloody useless and no where near the original colour that BMW established.


Makes me think your entire post should be taken with a little salt/ pepper and a late night kebab.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Good advice - mostly, but then ruined (spectacularly) by your advising Halford's rattle cans. - they're worse than bloody useless and no where near the original colour that BMW established.


Makes me think your entire post should be taken with a little salt/ pepper and a late night kebab.
My thoughts exactly, halfords can @ £15 no thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
well i've done the work and ive sanded and buffed the paint and now its a lot lighter so im hacked off so is it worth me trying halfords can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Not sure - you are the best judge - in that we only have the photos to look at which makes judging the work tricky - even with the best pics.
I just know that the rattle can I got from Halfords bore no resemblance to the paint on my Montreal Blue car - (It was a shade or two lighter, slightly pinkier than blue and the metallic flakes were a different density and texture) and no, the car has never been resprayed.

I got the finish to look pretty decent - but the area I sprayed now contrasts with the rest of the car and makes it look two-toney - not my desired result.


I hear that paints4u are good so I'm going to give them a try - they do the two can (Base + clear) combo for about £20.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
heres some pics after some hard compounding polishing and waxing, you can clearly see the difference the lower rear quarter panel in the pic is being sanded hence why it looks different.

overall the job is a good one though check the shine in the pic ive taken with phone looks really good but the difference grrr not happy with that so choice i have is live with it or go through the middle and do the door and middle of the wing if the latter do i dust it in.



 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top