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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, finally got round to changing them out and the driving difference is quite incredible.

I re-fitted standard OEM Boge/Sachs and new top mounts and the rear end is tight and firm on the road, handles like new (I changed the fronts already at end of last year with all thrust/ball joint arm bushes).

Inspection of the old struts shows they were corroded, leaking and not responding to compression - basically ruined.

Things to watch:

1. Both TIS and Haynes manual fail to mention that on both rear flanks you have to unbolt and move out of the way all the pipes and bits tucked up behind the wheel arch liners. On the left side this is the fuel evaporation system and on the right it's the filler hose and mountings.
Incredibly, TIS does not mention this at all? and so I spent 30 mins struggling to understand how you wiggle the top of the strut out. Haynes skips this too.

2. Is absolutely critical to build the shock with one of three bolts at shock mount top aligned to centre of the strut mounting bush. Fail to do this and you will never attach it to the wheel carrier!

3. The shock spring goes in one way, they have a slight pig tail which goes at the bottom of the strut and seats correctly in the lower spring mount.

Luckily Rajaie at Besian provides a really good write up, follow this and you can't go wrong (like I did!).

While your at it give your wheel arch liners a good scrub inside and out. There must be at leat 2lb of crud attached to them and tucked away eating your wheel arch rims from inside out.

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