BMW Forums : BimmerForums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. picked up my new M3 evo yesterday:thumbsup WOW what a car! although i'm a little concerned...

when cold for the first 10 min of driving it is very hesitant, drives OK when giving throttle and idle is OK. But if on and off of the pedal is is very jerky. And seems to hesitate. It is almost impossible to drive it smoothly until warmed up.:confused

It has a scorpion exhaust, full system that is very loud! I intend to replace asap.

Could this exhaust be causing the problem??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,255 Posts
The exhaust would not cause that problem. Did you not test drive the car from cold?

Probably something along the lines of split injector seals, intermittent fuel pump relay
 

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The seller drove the car for the first part of the test drive. All seemed well. Just been out for another drive it seems there is slight hesitation when warm also. At low revs when applying very light acceleration.:frown
 

·
Legendary BFuk Member
Joined
·
12,959 Posts
Mmmm, you could have a diagnostic scan done just for peace of mind:thumbsup

It would be good practice to do this as there may also be old codes that are still stored and need erasing. May also be worth replacing the lambda sensors but be warned they are not cheap on the M series and I've got a sneaky suspicion that yours may have 4:eek

Any chance you can PM me the last 7 digits of your chassis number and I will have a check for you

Also, check for air leaks, there are many pipes coming out of the bottom of the inlet manifold. I can get pictures of the ones on my 3.0 litre as I have the Inlet manifold off at the moment:thumbsup
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
I thought the lambdas are not used until the cars warmed up. I'd give the car a good service, get the codes read and reset the adaptation values. As A20rym pointed out, get the codes cleared and see what comes back.

I take it the car starts ok and is not cutting out?
 

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I thought the lambdas are not used until the cars warmed up. I'd give the car a good service, get the codes read and reset the adaptation values. As A20rym pointed out, get the codes cleared and see what comes back.

I take it the car starts ok and is not cutting out?
Yes car starts first time. Just purchased 6 litres of 0w-40 Mobile 1, Got a genuine oil filter, air filter, vanos filter & spark plugs on order. Though it maybe worth replacing temp sender?
I plan to get on with it at the weekend & get codes read. Hopefully be sorted after that lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,151 Posts
Yes car starts first time. Just purchased 6 litres of 0w-40 Mobile 1, Got a genuine oil filter, air filter, vanos filter & spark plugs on order. Though it maybe worth replacing temp sender?
I plan to get on with it at the weekend & get codes read. Hopefully be sorted after that lot.
O2 sensors don't kick in until they are warmed up as Ian S and Ron stated.

E36 M3's are really tempremental....believe me- I know.

You could be guessing and replacing bits all year round..............best to get e diagnostic done then take it from there mate.
 

·
Legendary BFuk Member
Joined
·
12,959 Posts
Mmmm, you could have a diagnostic scan done just for peace of mind:thumbsup

It would be good practice to do this as there may also be old codes that are still stored and need erasing. May also be worth replacing the lambda sensors but be warned they are not cheap on the M series and I've got a sneaky suspicion that yours may have 4:eek

Any chance you can PM me the last 7 digits of your chassis number and I will have a check for you

Also, check for air leaks, there are many pipes coming out of the bottom of the inlet manifold. I can get pictures of the ones on my 3.0 litre as I have the Inlet manifold off at the moment:thumbsup
I thought the lambdas are not used until the cars warmed up. I'd give the car a good service, get the codes read and reset the adaptation values. As A20rym pointed out, get the codes cleared and see what comes back.

I take it the car starts ok and is not cutting out?
The Lambda sensors aren't used till the car is warmed up so I would look elsewhere first, a fault scan would be a good port of call, as would checking for any air leaks around the engine system.

Cleaning the idle control valve may help also
O2 sensors don't kick in until they are warmed up as Ian S and Ron stated.

E36 M3's are really tempremental....believe me- I know.

You could be guessing and replacing bits all year round..............best to get e diagnostic done then take it from there mate.
No mate,

You need to get it scanned properly i.e via an autologic system, which all good beemer specialists will have.
I see a pattern:hihi

:thumbsup
 

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi there, I have fixed my hesitation/ misfire probs today:thumbsup.
I did have the car booked in for a diagnostic tomorrow but realised i had a throttle position sensor from an old 325i (m50) manifold I have lying around. I suspected the TPS was the problem so fitter the spare sensor and job done:D runs like a dream now.:hihi

The only concern i have is even though the sensors look very similar they have different part numbers. Will this be a problem?
 

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Doh:duh
Have had the same problem on my 325i, jerks like buggery when its cold!
Ive got a new tps sat on my desk.
Sorry Steve, didnt even think because yours is an M3. :embarrassed
Don't be too hard on your self matey, the experience & knowledge you guys share on here is nothing short of amazing:cheerful I didn't even know what a TPS was up until recently:blush

I'm just glade it was nothing costly! Probably won't be as luck next time.
Thanks again;)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
Lambdas? Have a life of about 60k. I just diag mine and replace whatever it suggests!

Vanos bolts and filter every oil change.

Bit worried about spinning a shell so am likely to do them and fit arp rod bolts in the next few weeks.

How's your suspension? Mine could probably do with rear top mounts and rear trailing arm bushes. Need to check the rear shocks when there. Should then be sorted!

Btw my evo is the same year as yours with 114k on the clock.
 

·
Platinum BFuk Member
Joined
·
496 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lambdas? Have a life of about 60k. I just diag mine and replace whatever it suggests!

Vanos bolts and filter every oil change.

Bit worried about spinning a shell so am likely to do them and fit arp rod bolts in the next few weeks.

How's your suspension? Mine could probably do with rear top mounts and rear trailing arm bushes. Need to check the rear shocks when there. Should then be sorted!

Btw my evo is the same year as yours with 114k on the clock.
I've hear of this 'spinning a shell,' Am i wright in thinking this is a crank bearing:confused. I heard it is happening to a few evo's. Is it very likely to happen? Does it suddenly go, or is it progressive? What symptoms would occur? sorry lots of questions:confused

I think my rta bushes need replacing soon. No knock or squeaks yet tho. Only had the car a week now. Feels pretty tight. We still getting to know each other!!:bouncy
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
4,219 Posts
Big-end shells. Was chatting to someone knowledable and his theory is that the rod bolts are prone to stretching on the evo's. Probably due to the high RPM's involved.

Also quality of oil plays a big part.

I am not sure of how much of a risk this is but I have heard of several occurences. Hell, check out this journal! http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f82/e36-m3-evo-project-t6331/

Could just be me being paranoid!
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top