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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an E36 Compact Rally Car fitted with an M3. Car is used for tarmac rallies - would you recommend poly bushes? Some people think they cause more problems than they solve by decreasing compliancy...any thoughts?
 

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i think it may have been me that originally said to get these lol.
surely the suspension works best when all the angles are held tight?
if the wheels squirm under load you are loosing precision?

(this should go in the chassis section,but i'll leave it here for a while so it gets seen by as many people as poss ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. The theory seems to be that for rallying (as opposed to circuit racing) it can be benficial to have some degree of movement as it allegedly reduces the tendency to axle tramp :confused:

Maybe an enthusiastic road or competition driver who has actually fitted them can confirm? Car has loads of power given its light weight, but has always suffered a degree of axle tramp...
 

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what are the differences between the e36 m3 and compacts rear set up?...iirc the e36 compact uses the e30 set up(may be wrong here lol).
i would be looking at welding in some anti tramp bars like the mk2 escorts had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, the set up is pretty much E30. If I can't sort the problem link bars may be an answer (I used to compete in a Mk2 with a 5 link kit) Has anyone tried these poly bushes?
 

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i was going to use polybushes when replacing bushes on my car .. seeing as they're firmer and longer lasting .. would i be right in using them for a road car?
 

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i was going to use polybushes when replacing bushes on my car .. seeing as they're firmer and longer lasting .. would i be right in using them for a road car?
Oh indeed, I do and so do many others:thumbsup
 

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Are they difficult to do yourself. Only have basic tools.

If I was to do the lot, it would cost £210 just for the parts, never mind the labour.

Does anyone know how much the charge would be for fitting? Do they take long?
 

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Are they difficult to do yourself. Only have basic tools.

If I was to do the lot, it would cost £210 just for the parts, never mind the labour.

Does anyone know how much the charge would be for fitting? Do they take long?
Labour would hike up the cost quite dramatically. If you feel confident then you will find all the help you need on here:thumbsup
 

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Many thanks.

I'll have to have a think if Im brave enough to do them myself.....
We have mechanics on here that would be able to talk you through it. Perhaps do it over a few weekends so you don't bite off more than you can chew:thumbsup

We can start you off with the easiest ones and then you can report back how you got on:cool
 

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fao Notax
this thread seems to have been hijacked mate...maybe post a new one in competition corner ;)
I know there are a lot of posts in here but it's all regarding the bushes that the OP asked about.

I wouldn't advise each member start a new thread for the same topic.

I will forward this link to Boostist and ask what he thinks:thumbsup
 

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I see where Mark is coming from... but I agree we should keep it here as its a popular topic and if we start another one may get ignored :hihi

ive changed the title of this thread so it makes sense to the search engines....ahem notax :D

I would strongly advise to fit the poly bushes for the rally car. I fitted them to my M3 and have some to go on the project car. (when the weather is not as vile)
I would NOT go for alloy subframe bushes though as I think they are shonky and so do a few other peopl I know (and trust) who have run them on various performance cars...

Real filling rattlers with little to no real world gains.

hth

ps// regarding cost of fitting, some are harder than others.

RTABs (rear trailing arm bushes) are a major PITA without the correct BMW pulling tool to get the old ones out. Fitting the new ones once the trailing arms are free of the old bush is a doddle.

Wishbones - bit of a pain
Front and rear anti roll bar - easy as long as the bolts arent corroded to hell
Subframe - Dont know, I used stock BMW ones
Diff mount - not too bad

Not sure which ones Ive forgotten but one thing to remember is to mark all the old geometry before removing things, eg mark the trailing arms position by drawing round the 3 (or 4) bolt holes mounting them under the car.

Then get a full 4 wheel alignment done once you have this sorted... really, dont miss this part out or the gains you could have will be wasted, and maybe worse!
 
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