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hi all. so now my 328 is running well i have been able to have some 'proper' drives:silly does anyone else on here find that you have to keep it above 3k rpm to get any sort of performance from them? it feels like a 2 litre below 3k, above tho and it flys and rear end will hang out all day. any one else found the same thing?
/speerzie
 

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I find with mine that thats where the majority of the power comes in. To make it fly you need to keep it in the power band as they are a bit lerthargic low down similar in character to several VR6 Golfs and Corrados i owned where there just a bit lazy till things get interesting at 3k.
 

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Get the codes read, this could also be the cam or crank sensor failing. Gringog60 knows all about that to his cost!
Oh yes £92 pounds later too for a bit of fancy with a plastic wire.

Could be a cam sensor but unless it feels like its stuttering along till 3k it probably just how it is and its ok. You could get your code read and also take a look at my thread in this section.
 

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My 1996 328i had the Nikasil engine in when I bought it and was burning a lot of oil but otherwise ran well, and I always used to complain that it behaved the way you've described - it was a fast car, but below 3000 rpm it was a bit sluggish, and you had to give it a bit of acceleration when pulling off or it would stall as I let the clutch out.

I eventually bought a replacement 2.8 engine to get around the Nikasil problem - the replacement being roughly the same age but had been in under warranty and had the steel liner type block fitted, so didn't burn any oil. With the new engine the power difference is noticeable. Its no longer sluggish at low revs, it picks up VERY quickly when I boot it (which I do often :) ), it has power right from the off, and it no longer struggles when I let the clutch out (even without any acceleration). Its scary fast now, but uses the old flywheel, the old inlet manifold, most of the old sensors, the old engine management etc. - only the stripped engine was changed.

Not that that helps much, but I thought I'd mention it...
 

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isnt 2.5k-3k when the vanos kicks in?
 
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isnt 2.5k-3k when the vanos kicks in?
yes...just over 2000ish I'd say. I have a 323i (2.5) auto and it has loads of torque as it passes 2000 to 3000 (which is basically the rev range the auto keeps it in in economy mode). It makes pretty brisk progress there.

Speerzie, Is your 95 a M50 or M52? Because I've read that the M52s are generally torquey low down and run out of puff high up, unlike the M50s which are comparatively lethargic low down and as they approach the redline they fly. EDIT: It is a M52

Its the main reason M52 owners do the M50inlet manifold conversion which sacrifices power low down but gives extra power high up. EDIT: probably applies to the 2.5s and not the big boy 2.8s :)

thanks Ferret
 

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Its the main reason M52 owners do the M50inlet manifold conversion which sacrifices power low down but gives extra power high up.
He has a 328, so it'll be an M52.

Anyway, I tend to disagree with the above statement - I appear to have kept the torque, or there abouts, and gained power all the way to the redline with the conversion :)
 

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He has a 328, so it'll be an M50.

Anyway, I tend to disagree with the above statement - I appear to have kept the torque, or there abouts, but gain power all the way to the redline with the conversion :)
agree my vert has loads off low end pull:thumbsup, if converted to m50 then check for air leaks:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yep its m52. NEVER uses any oil or water. however i think i still have a air leak issue but just cant find it!!!:mad:muttering:banghead i took it out again tonight and it was idling like shit AGAIN:frown.

i do remember tho' that when i 'fixed' the oil seperator(thanks ferret:hihi) it went like a rocket for about 2 days. i have since replaced it with a second hand one but its made no difference. the diaphram in the 'new one' wasnt split but was 'dry' and quite hard. i wonder if that could be the problem?
 

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yep its m52. NEVER uses any oil or water. however i think i still have a air leak issue but just cant find it!!!:mad:muttering:banghead i took it out again tonight and it was idling like shit AGAIN:frown.

i do remember tho' that when i 'fixed' the oil seperator(thanks ferret:hihi) it went like a rocket for about 2 days. i have since replaced it with a second hand one but its made no difference. the diaphram in the 'new one' wasnt split but was 'dry' and quite hard. i wonder if that could be the problem?
If you suspect an air leak but can't find it the best way is to spray some (alot) carb cleaner around the pipes and listen for increase/decrease in revs :thumbsup
 

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Here's a link I came by describing similar symptoms to your car : http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm

"Symptoms

Cars experience:
Overall loss of torque and power, particularly in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Bogging then surging at 3k RPM. Uneven power distribution and RPM transition. Engine hesitations in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Louder idle and intermittent idle RPM hiccups. Difficult takeoffs. Loss of power and bogging when AC on. Increased fuel consumption."

The fault being the VANOS seals.

Hope this helps.
 

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vanos seals and bearing were replaced using these about 3 months ago mate:thumbsup
I'm out of ideas...except for suggesting you get the 635 in the pic! Love that car. Gonna have one one day... :)

Truth is, they are mysterious machines. Mine does the cut out thing as I approach junctions some times...it never really stalls, but is unable to hold its revs until I accelerate again. But like I say, seldom, only when driven in a certain way, and having read 1001 similar situations, there are 1002 solutions. :thumbsup
 

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My 328i has a very distinctive point at around 3200rpm where the power is fully available. Below 3000rpm its no dawdler but doesn't feel massively torquey. Switching off the traction control makes quite a bit of difference, especially when launching. I think its just a characteristic of the engine.
 
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